Hand Finish Mounts

[benjiman grapes]

Hello, long time...

Just a quick question. Tried searching but revealed no results.

What inks/paints do people use to hand finish/colour mounts.
I'm kinda tired of settling for 'closest match' from mnufacturers and wanna look into colour matching.

So firstly what do people use?
And secondly are the inks safe to use in regards to PH levels, acids etc.

Don't wanna be damaging peoples work.

Thanks in advance.

[David]

It depends what I'm doing. For custom paint finishes I use acrylic paints, once they're dry they aren't going anywhere. For more traditional line and wash its watercolour and inks(windsor&newton), don't want watercolour touching the artwork because if it gets damp it can rehydrate and migrate, but on the surface of the mountboard is fine. I also dry mount surface papers onto mountboard, invariably conservation standard, for other finishes. If you layer coloured papers or the thin card you can make totally unique mount boards, if you are not sure of the standard of paper you can always put a conservation board underneath to protect the artwork.

David.

[benjiman grapes]

Cheers David,

I have found some framers seem to keep this info to themselves.
A kinda "don't give a way my secret" approach.

[Roboframer]

I think it's more a case of most framers not relating to your problem ...

I'm kinda tired of settling for 'closest match' from manufacturers and wanna look into colour matching.

I don't know what this means regards colouring mounts, I don't colour mounts, not the whole surface, I'm more than happy with the colours available to me.

I do washlines/panels and have posted how and what with - no inks (bar Chinese stick ink for black), watercolours, some acrylic, real gold, gold foil.

[prospero]

If you are thinking of applying a flat colour to the whole of the mount surface, I would think again.

You can either use artist's watercolour to give a transparent tint - like a washline panel but all over. But getting it dead even with not blotchy parts would be nigh-on impossible. Using thicker opaque coats would need an opaque paint like gouache or acrylic. Gouache is soluble when dry which could be problematic if any moisture ever gets in the frame. Acrylic is tough as old boots, but you couldn't put it in direct contact with glass or you get the dreaded "Newtons Rings." It will also stick to the glass like billy-o.

Thin watercolour washes are fine for washlines and various stippled decorative effects, but tinting a big area evenly - no.

[benjiman grapes]

Thanks for the response guys.

I don't mean whole sheets. In that regards I would use the suppliers boards or, as David mentioned, drymount colours to board.
I was referring to double mounts. Such as the foiling you speak about.

I work with a lot of corporate colours.
These guys like their pantones.

So I'm referring to that base mat on a double mount to colour that 5-7mm (including bevel) in a paint or ink to colour match the corporate pantone.

[David]

In that case I'd be using acrylic. Need a good eye for colour mixing for an exact match.

[benjiman grapes]

Cheers David.

I'm trained.
Painted so many four wheels in my time.

Only need 2 of yellow, blue & red then just white and I can paint you any colour you desire.

[David]

It can take me longer to mix the right colour than paint the mount. Having said that I'm often using a very thin band of colour, so as long as you are close it works well, doesn't have to be spot on. Also I usually aim a tone or two lighter than the one in the picture, so the colour in the image is the stronger one.

Some years ago I employed an artist for framing, she was brilliant. She'd take one look at those dirty grey/green/brown nothing in particular colours and mix it up usually get it first time.

David.

[prospero]

You might find a rattlecan paint the right shade. In which case no mixing and quick to apply. You might need 2-3 coats or a primer as the board will soak up liquid like a sponge and dry very matt. Alternatively you could use an airbrush. Don't need an expensive double-action one. If you already have a compressor it will save a lot of cash as you will get less overspray so you'll use less paint.

If you spray Acrylic though an airbrush you must make sure and blow it though a few times with clean hot water or it will be knackered. Gouache would be better as even if some dries inside the airbrush you can soak it in hot water to clean it.

Watch out for bright gouache colours. Some will fade quickly. Look at the permanence rating. Avoid grade C.

[benjiman grapes]

Cheers Prosp.