Using a Keencut Laser, horizontal or vertical?
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Nigel
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Using a Keencut Laser, horizontal or vertical?
Hi, I have a Keencut Laser which will take a full size mount board, ie. 120 x 80cm. I have built a stand for this using angle iron, so it sits at about a 60% angle. I have found when I cut large mounts sizes that although the blade is sharp it will not always cut through the mountboard. I believe this is because the Keencut can warp slightly if is is not supported properly. So I have decided to re site it.
The question is would it be better to fix it to a wall and have it vertical or with a very slight angle, or to have it horizontal in a work bench?
Space is an issue in my workshop as it is in my garage.
Any advice would be an enormous help.
Nigel
The question is would it be better to fix it to a wall and have it vertical or with a very slight angle, or to have it horizontal in a work bench?
Space is an issue in my workshop as it is in my garage.
Any advice would be an enormous help.
Nigel
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markw
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WelshFramer
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I have a Keencut Ultimate so I don't know whether my experience would hold true for a Laser.
For a long time I had problems with the blade not cutting all the way through when cutting a long bevel. Short cuts were fine (99% of the time) but long cuts frequently caused problems around the middle of the cut.
One day I spent a few hours experimenting and decided it was the way I was holding the cutting head. I was, in fact 'holding' the cutting head and that was the problem. Once I started just applying downward pressure on the cutting head without attempting to hold it in any way the problems ceased.
Originally I had been applying a sort of twisting force to the head and careful watching while cutting showed me that this was encouraging the bar to lift slightly. A purely downward force keeps the bar flat on the mountboard.
For a long time I had problems with the blade not cutting all the way through when cutting a long bevel. Short cuts were fine (99% of the time) but long cuts frequently caused problems around the middle of the cut.
One day I spent a few hours experimenting and decided it was the way I was holding the cutting head. I was, in fact 'holding' the cutting head and that was the problem. Once I started just applying downward pressure on the cutting head without attempting to hold it in any way the problems ceased.
Originally I had been applying a sort of twisting force to the head and careful watching while cutting showed me that this was encouraging the bar to lift slightly. A purely downward force keeps the bar flat on the mountboard.
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Moglet
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I had the same problem with my ultimat, but the little extra downward pressure did the trick for me too. In fact, if I'm making a very long cut, I've been known to climb up onto the workbench beside the mountcutter to ensure even pressure for the length of the cut (I'm 5'6" and longer cuts are a bit of a reach!). 
........Áine JGF SGF FTB
.Briseann an dúchas trí shuiligh an chuit.
.Briseann an dúchas trí shuiligh an chuit.-
Moglet
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Spit
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beth
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used to use the larger sheets of glass where I worked we didnt have a wall mounted cutter so we used a straight edge, score accross, then snap the glass off, this was okay untill you had a bad score/cut
Never have been badly cut when using glass (touch wood) but have had quite nasty cuts from mount card bevels
Prefer using 3foot x 4foot now I have my own business, if I do need a piece bigger I get 3mm or acrylic cut to size
Never have been badly cut when using glass (touch wood) but have had quite nasty cuts from mount card bevels
Prefer using 3foot x 4foot now I have my own business, if I do need a piece bigger I get 3mm or acrylic cut to size
- Merlin
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