Framing a Large Silk Scarf

[Glimpse]

I've been asked to frame an 800mm x 800mm silk scarf. It's fairly valuable, so needs to be preserved and 100% reversible. The image goes to within 10mm of the edges, so there's not much to play with!
Any ideas or suggestions on the best way to go about it and avoid any future sagging?

Thanks!!

[caro]

I did one recently, batting, or quilting, covered with an inexpensive lining fabric, these were stretched/ wrapped over mountboard, glued on the back, scarf stitched around the edge, using silk thread, through the hem on the scarf to the lining fabric, which provides friction so it did not need stitching in the middle to stop sagging. Deep spacer, 2mm standard glass, the above techniques n materialscould be improved for conservation level. The padding stopped the silk f from looking 'flat', ill try to upload a photo.

[caro]

Using padding makes the stitching a little easier as it's not stitching onto a flat surface.

[Glimpse]

Many thanks for that Caro, exactly what I was after! Looks fairly straightforward, time for a trip to the haberdashers I think!

[Roboframer]

If it's OK to stitch the borders then you can sew extensions on and lace it - you could still pad it but that would not be necessary and it would be better to have a conservation board behind it than wadding, unbuffered board if you want it to be the best.

http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.ph ... 69&p=81407


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[Jamesnkr]

Two questions:

1. Why is unbuffered best?

2. Why use such small extensions? If you're sewing extensions on then you might as well sew on bigger extensions. Then you need only put a line of running stitches down the seam. Far, far, far faster than 'lacing'. Moreover much less likely to sag over time I'd think.

Capture.JPG (41.92 KiB) Viewed 3282 times

[Roboframer]

Yes, wider extensions would be quicker to lace but I'd leave a bit more than a "seam" incase it relaxes and needs re-tensioning (I've never had anything back requiring that)

Regards unbuffered board https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=nFn ... rd&f=false

[caro]

Applying, or appliqueing, the silk scarf to the already stretched base means that the fabric is not put under great tension. My customer asked for padding. A feature or risk with silk is that a sharp needle could pierce a thread and then applying tension could cause a ladder or run. A fine ballpoint needle could be used, this would divide or separate the threads rather than pierce. Hope all goes well Glimpse.

[caro]

A layer of woollen felt could be used for padding and friction which would constitute a 'protein' base similar conservation level to unbuffered mountboard, and of course the whole thing will be moth heaven!

[Roboframer]

There's a lot of reading on framing fabrics and the use of fabrics as supports - like dyes and the washing out of them.

No matter what type of needle you use in silk, it is so close that you'll leave a hole - be it a pierced hole or a threads-pushed-apart-never-to-close-again ... hole!

A sewn extension would be machine sewn to have any effect, with stitches so small and close together, you'd never pull against one - you'd also never pull so tight as to rip anything - just take the tension.

Anyway - either method can be fine - depending - one thing to remember though - if preservation is more important than presentation - and this from a respected conservator ..... "Silk loses half of its strength after 220 hours of exposure to sunlight. Even under reduced lighting, it is not suitable for long term display".