float mounting

[muffinski]

Float mounting at all four corners on small pieces work well. Is there another method for larger pieces of art work say 30"x40" upwards. work can tend to slightly bow of give off a an unequal shadow and come away from the back mount. Putting lots of hinges in place seems to go against the idea of conservation methods.

[prospero]

A big piece of paper is never going to behave nohow.

If something needs to be floated then you can only employ the best methods and hope for the best.
A lot of floated stuff is done that way to display an uneven edge - no doubt to show that it is a piece of
mould-made paper laid by hand. (Possibly by naked Tahitian maidens ). In that case an uneven shadow
is expected, but the piece can be lifted up slightly by hinging it to thick foamcore which not only mitigates the
unevenness but gives a truly floated effect. I've got one in the drawer at the mo, flattening out after being rolled.
The paper is very uneven. The painting was done by an elephant. I'm going to float that and I don't expect it
to be flat. Sometimes you have to treat these things more as 3D objects.

If you can take a piece of paper bigger than 30x40 and float mount it and get it to stay dead flat, all I can say is:
You are damn lucky.

[Jamesnkr]

Putting lots of hinges in place seems to go against the idea of conservation methods.

Welcome to float mounting.

That said, starch paste and Japanese paper is easily reversible.

[prospero]

When it comes to hinging it would nice if you could just hinge along the top edge - as with a window mount.

Without a window mount it's going to flap about and hinges on the sides/bottom only serve to stop it flapping about.
These supplementary hinges should have a bit if 'give'. They will never keep the paper from moving if it wants to.
Banging on extra hinges in an attempt to tame the beast is futile. The less hinges the better.

[Roboframer]

The hedgehog method is fine; if two hinges can be removed with water with no trace then so can 52!

.

[muffinski]

thanks for responses guess its gonna have to be a few extra pulled through hinges, I have several pieces of artwork with torn edges that customers want displayed.

[Roboframer]

Hedgehog method uses a fall out, far better than pass-through hinges .

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/content/infos ... 0paper.pdf


..

[muffinski]

that link was extremely helpful cheers Robo.

[muffinski]

Hey roboframer

Just about to start using the hedgehog method and was re-reading for clarity and then read this part

The
only difference is that a temporary
folded strip of silicone release paper is
placed on the bevel edge, which allows
the tape to flex when dry, allowing
the artwork some movement as the
humidity changes.

not used silicone release paper before and not sure how to apply it. This is my understanding, its folded to create a barrier to stop the gummed tape from sticking on the bevelled edge, so literally folded over and the amount used is the same width as the gummed tape and the pressure of the gummed tape holds it in place but allows for the movement in humidity changes. how much does one go over and under the mount? 5mm each side, is this correct, can it be done without the silicone paper in anyway?

[Roboframer]

You're correct on the release paper strips - they are not required with tissue and paste as long as you only apply the paste where it is required.

Remember this method is plugged for work on heavy paper so weights of hinges and wetness of adhesive is less of an issue. Only pre-gummed tapes are mentioned but with stuff you make yourself the method can be used for pretty much anything.

You can apply as much as you like to the mount (fallout) but as little as possible to the artwork; with wet-torn hinges which are feathered you can feather them as much as you like and for delicate work apply paste to the 'feathers' only.

[muffinski]

Of course makes sense if using starch paste then don't apply on bevelled edge, and then no need for release paper and one less item to purchase. Thanks for replying Robo