workbench surfaces - multi functional

[lawrieh]

Hi All
I have just build a workbench for a very cramped work space that is shared with a 44" printer and 44" jet mounters. As the printer and jetmounter are on Castors I thought this would be a good idea to continue to the workbench. Its all assembled and is 1220 wide by around 160cm long, surfaced with MDF (18mm). I have allowed for an extra 30cm and 50cm extension on both ends (either with hinge or to be slip in on rails TBC) if I need more space. The bench will be used for cutting glass, assembling pictures and cutting/trimming prints, so it has to be multifunctional. the bench is made from 3" by 2" timber, cheap as chips from Selco and it seems very sturdy without cross bracing (happy to share design if anybody needs info).

I have a few questions;

1. Can anyone recommend a good substance to coat the MDF with, I was hoping to find something that would penetrate the MDF a few mm and then dry to form a more hardwearing, robust, waterproof surface. I was thinking of some diluted varnish or wood hardener (I have used it to repair old rotten sash windows before) might do the job.

2. I have used carpet for glass cutting on my kitchen table before, the carpet rolls up and lives in the corner when I am not cutting glass and assembling. I was thinking that a cutting mat that could be rolled and stored would be a good space saving idea. Does anyone know of something that can be used as a cutting surface that can be rolled and stored. Probably needs to be around 1.2m x 1.2m, As low cost as possible preferably

3. Do people generally use a carpet covered surface for frame assembling and glass cutting? I shake out my carpet every week or so to get rid of glass fragments.

thanks

Lawrie

[prospero]

For cutting glass you need carpet. Also for assembling frames where you have them face-down.

It's worth getting a good piece of short pile 'kitchen' type carpet in a neutral colour and no jazzy pattern.
I tried a bright pattern carpet once and found it was very wearing on the eyeballs under a strong light.
It's worth buying a slice off the roll to get the right one rather than using an unsuitable remnant just to
save a few quids.

Get an A0 size green cutting mat for cutting on. Drop this on top of the carpet when needed. You can't really
roll these mats up. Well not very tight anyway.
One thing I found was the cutting mats are surprisingly abrasive. Don't assemble frames face-down on them or you can
rub off a delicate finish. Same with cardboard.

[Steve N]

We have carpet on our 8ftx4ft bench ok for cutting glass, assembling pictures etc, then we have 2x 3ftx4ft cutting mats which are put on if we want a flat stable surface
We also have another 4ftx4ft bench Chipboard top covered in mountcard where we have the underpinner , which we cover with cardboard if we are painting any frames

[Graysalchemy]

I would put plenty of cross braces under the mdf as 18mm mdf will bend when you cut on it and you are likely to crack your glass.

As for covering carpet for assembly or vinyl flooring on a roll. For cutting glass those two wood do but you will have to make sure you don't have any glass splinters before you start assembling. If you are trimming prints I cover my benches in either backing board or damaged mount board, cheaper than a cutting mat and does last quite a long time.

A wall cutter would be a good a better idea for you glass cutting though.

[vintage frames]

If you want to seal up the MDF, then I'd use this stuff
https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/ ... tml#SID=32
Also take Graysalcemy's advice and brace up the MDF, it can warp and sag all over the place.

[lawrieh]

Thanks all for the top tips.

I thought I may need bracing but the MDF seems quite sturdy, perhaps because there is a 10cm overhang on the edges (so I could sit at it at a push) there is not that much sag yet, I bought extra timber for braces but they are currently uncut, maybe I will take your advice and fit them just in case.

The Ruskins is a good idea, I had not come across that before.

Joining two or even 3 cutting matts, I had considered this but I was worried that any slight gap between mats when cutting could affect the cut (I do mainly float mounted prints so edges are on show)

Can I ask why people recommend short pile. is it just to reduce the give and therefore flex on a sheet of glass when cutting?

Does anybody else use a smooth surface bit of Lino for a cheap, rollable, self healing cutting mat alternative?

Thanks

Lawrie

[prospero]

There isn't really a substitute for good cutting mat. A bit of vinyl will serve, but not last very long.
They aren't cheap items, but will last for yonks.
It's also worth noting that the proper 'Olfa' brand mats have a printed grid which is handy to use as
a gude for squaring things up. I bought a cheaper version of the A0 size once and although it did have
the grid it was printed in two halves which didn't line up. A small defect but quite annoying.

[Jamesnkr]

there is not that much sag yet, I bought extra timber for braces but they are currently uncut, maybe I will take your advice and fit them just in case.

Because it is made from sawdust and glue, it will "creep". i.e. the deformation will be permanent. So you need to get the struts on before it changes shape!