The Framers Forum

Hello everyone! I'm new to this, but very keen, so please bear with me.

I have some old maps that were my mother's that I want to frame. The oldest is a 1947 Bartholemew's map of the English Lakes. It is paper with a cloth backing. It's not in great condition (I think that's part of its charm) and it has lived folded for many years.

It opens out nicely flat but there are gaps in the paper where the folds are, such that it's only the open-weave cloth that is holding it together. (I can post a picture if it will help.) I am fine with aligning all the pieces correctly, but, how do I attach each one to the mount board?

I think they will need to be stuck quite thoroughly in order to stay in place when they are vertical. Or should I not put a mount at the front and rely partly on the glass to keep everything in place?

Thanks in advance,
Miranda

Maybe stitches or a tag gun.

Many old maps were mounted to linen at the time of manufacture, so that they wouldn't wear out at the folds. Thus the individual pieces are a quarter of an inch, or so, apart.

This item is probably worth a fiver? I'd be inclined to stick it up against the glass, personally. It's already plenty large enough, and a mount will only make it larger. Being linen-backed - but with the linen gaps between the bits of map - it's quite heavy and unstable anyway. That's part of its charm.

Thanks both.
Sean - I hadn't considered stitching; that might well work, I'll give it a try and see how long it takes. I haven't got a tag gun yet, I've just seen the micro ones on the Lion website, might invest.
Jamesnkr - yes all parts of your description are spot on!
I will experiment. Thanks very much!

Tag gun v fast to use. Initial cost to consider but will be used agsin and again.

Got a vac press?

If so you can mount a piece of Dry-mount Film (not tissue) to a suitable background, a piece just smaller
than the map. Leave the release paper on the top. When it's cooled a bit peel the release paper and you have a
nice tacky surface. Place the map on this making sure there are no wrinkles and no film visible. Put back in the press
and give it a very quick squeeze. If you time it right it will hold firmly but not bond completely, thus allowing it to be
peeled off if need be. If it's got a slightly ragged edge it will look better floated. IMHO . Frame it with spacers.

Prospero, this looks like an amateur... so the hot press idea might be a bit tricky for them!

Haha yes definitely an amateur! Sadly no hot/vacuum press.
But thanks for describing the technique!

So you don't feel like spending a few grand on a press?

One way that will be within your scope is DCO. (Direct Contact Overlay). Usually having the glazing touching
the 'art' is a big no-no. But if you used thickish (3mm) acrylic sheet you "get away with it" to some extent.
Plastic has different thermal properties to glass so the risk of condensation is much reduced if not eliminated.
And the maps being backed with fabric makes expansion/contract of the paper less of an issue.

So use stick 'em straight in a frame sandwiched between acrylic and a stout backing board and they should be OK.

Thanks Prospero, thickish arcylic rather than glass sounds like a great idea.
Can I ask what thickness of backing board you would suggest?

Well I would have mountboard immediately behind. Colour doesn't matter unless there are gaps in the map and then
maybe something darkish. Whatever works. Behind that 2.5mm MDF or hardboard. Thin ply maybe. Whatever you got handy.
But it's a good idea to put some sort of waterproof membrane inside the outer backboard. I use polypropylene wrapping
material. Anything will work as long as it's waterproof and will stay in place. Tinfoil? It's a small job to fit but if the
back ever gets damp no water will reach the map. We hope.

Brilliant, thanks very much Prospero.

Hi Miranda

Your post has reminded me of the first linen backed item I framed.

This was mid 1970's I had not been framing long it was a steep learning curve with no youtube, interweb or FF "Conservation" was a word used by the likes of Sir Peter Scott. Anyway, in comes this Architect's plan of a local bridge (Fosdyke) to be constructed in timber. I can't recall the date of the plan but I can remember it was around 6' long and 2' deep and in poor condition.

The way I tackled it then was to construct the frame using 4'' chamfered skirting braced with a sub-frame that doubled as the rebate. The timber (from Travis & Arnold) in those days was of a much better quality, well seasoned and a lower moisture content. Thankfully, the choice of glazing was not so complicated and laminated 2mm float did the job backed by two sheets of 3mm hard board stuck together with evostick inpact and glued to the frame. The frame I finished with Shellac and wax.

FWIW I was invited to see this item in the office where it is hung around 10 years ago. Hung is the wrong word as it "sits" on a purpose made plinth. ( I chickened out of fixing any kind of hangers and I had not heard of a French Cleat in those days)

The frame had obviously benefitted by regular coats of polish and the patina was quite some thing The plan/drawing did not appear to have suffered being up against the glass. The mitres had opened slightly but regular polishing had filled the gaps.

These days and all things considered, following prospero's advice is the way I would proceed.

Anyway, good luck.

Pete

Poliopete wrote
"Conservation" was a word used by the likes of Sir Peter Scott.

Love that Peter

What a lovely story Pete!
Thanks for sharing

He did ducks in all positions.

Sir Peter Scott and Prince Philip initiated "The Wet Lands and Wild Fowl Trust" over lunch one day - the story goes they dinned on wild duck

Peter