Easel Mate frame stands

[David McCormack]

Has anyone used these stands? What are they like?

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/r/25294/Albin ... rame-Stand

Would anyone consider replacing standard mdf strut backs with these?

Thanks.

[Steve N]

No but have used these , curl 'n' stand ones https://www.lionpic.co.uk/search?q=7027T they seem okay, not had a problem with them

[David McCormack]

Does this video instil confidence in the ability for the frame to stand on its own? She keeps hold of the frame with one hand each time?

[Steve N]

No not really , the Curl & Stand does work well.

[David McCormack]

Yes, think I prefer the look of the ones you're using, thanks.

[Not your average framer]

Not for me thanks, looks to much like mass produced, bottom end of the market stuff. Looks too cheap, does not give my customers the right message about me. Also, unless I an mistaken, the strut does not fold away when the picture is being packed, stored, or transported.

[Steve N]

Which one are you talking about Mark, as the curl & stand fold away , so you can hang on the wall

[prospero]

As I was saying in another thread, this is another 'bright idea' strut system which has it's pros and cons.

Quick and simple to do and you can always put two on for extra stability.

But once fixed they are permanently sticking out. Very awkward if you had to store them off-display in a shop
or transport them. Supplying them loose for customer fitting is iffy. Some folks are not good with screwdrivers.

I tried out the curl up ones with the idea that I could screw the plate to the frame rather than bang it into the back - to save
buying a press. It worked to a point. I could never get the right fit for the curly bit. Either too loose or wouldn't go in. No good
for customer-fitting. I personally dislike things that have to grip-fit in the back. They give way sooner or later and look mass-produced
and slightly crude.

[David McCormack]

I think the one in Steve's link fits over the edge of the back board and should stay put. If I was making a frame for myself to stand up by itself, I'd probably go for the screw in easel-mate and use two instead of just one in the middle. But for customers I'm going to keep trying to solve the problem of making wooden ones....

KS_2_Slip_On_Bracket_Brass.jpg (13.58 KiB) Viewed 6278 times

[Steve N]

Lion do a very nice brass hinge
https://www.lionpic.co.uk/search?q=1916

You could glue the ribbon on or glue a small bit of wood across the ends of the ribbon

these might be useful if you made the strut fit the full size of the back of the frame

https://www.lionpic.co.uk/search?q=3421a

Just a thought

[prospero]

These things are better made in batches to make the operation more efficient. I often helps to make a few jigs
and templates.

To go off at a slight tangent, you can get little fold-open plate stands quite cheaply and these make great stands for frames.

[Not your average framer]

Which one are you talking about Mark

I am talking about the Easel Mate. I was using the Simons clip and bar strut back, but they have been discontinued. It's a real shame, because they were produced from much thicker MDF than normal and were really solidly made. Oh well! I guess nothing lasts forever. I'm still thinking about making my own custom made strut backs, probably using 6mm MDF, or even plywood.

[prospero]

I once had a state of making strut backs. I use the (since disco'd) Lion ready cut struts which came with a clip already
attached. It's a tedious job riveting two bars to a back (one for each orientation) but I made templates so I could drill
about 5 at once. Then it's just a question of banging in the rivets. I did about 300 in one go. That's 1200 little bif rivets
to place/open tails with a screwdriver/hammer flat. It's one of those jobs that you can sit watching TV and rivet away.

To make your own struts is easy enough. You can cut tapered ones on a wall cutter if you make a sloping guide from MDF.
Cut a strip of MDF (2.5mm thick) and slice/flip over/etc. Bit of sanding - done. Again, you need a guide template to drill
the holes. The advantage with these is you can cut set lengths and trim them to size to suit various moulding widths.