The Framers Forum

Right another first for me. Have a canvas to frame which is 765 x 660 and is not neat and tidy around edges (This is how the artist did it). Looking at using Lion L2794 Bloc tray frame, but want to double check measurements for cutting. The client wants 10mm clearance around to ensure not too tight against the irregular canvas. I have a Morso with measuring scale that uses the rebate size (I align the rebate size against the length of the piece required), so need to figure out where to set that to get the correct lengths. Moulding is 55mm on bottom and width of 25mm (so 30mm between inside edge and inside edge, or 20mm from inside edge to edge of canvas leaving a 10mm gap)),

So do I set up the morso with 55mm aligned at 725 (765 - 40)? - obviously what ever i do for width I will then apply to height.

Sorry but this is new to me and trying to think logically based on how I measure and cut a normal moulding.

Thanks
Tom

You first need to establish just how big the canvas is. If it's irregular as you say you will get readings that vary a few mm. Maybe a lot.
The best way is to place two pieces of wood alongside twp opposite sides so they are snug to the canvas an measure between each end.
Then do the same on the other two sides. Then work out a 'mean' measurement. The more crucial thing is the see if the canvas is square.
If it's way out it is not going to sit right in the frame. A run off of more a few mm will look very obvious when surrounded by a straight frame.
Increasing the gap will mitigate this somewhat, but you can only go so far.

Once you have pinned down the actual size of the canvas all you need to do is measure the face of the floater profile and add 10mm.
Use this size as the 'rebate width' setting on the Morso scale.

to make sure the canvas is square, measure across both corners (top left to bottom right, then bottom left to top right) if they are not the same , then the canvas ain't square
As to measuring and cutting the moulding, well it's just like any other moulding, but up side down, most moulding are like up side down letter 'L' with a tray moulding, it is like the letter 'L' up the right way, so you just measure the thickness of the up right and use that as your width, if you are leaving 10mm gap all the way around the canvas, you just add 20mm to the canvas size, you're not working for NASA so it ain't 'rocket science' don't forget cut the longest side first, so if you cock up and it's to short, you can use that one for the short sides. If I'm not too sure I always add a few mm to the setting and cut, then measure, then make adjustments work down to the correct size

Thanks gents, appreciate the advice and yes not rocket science (thank god ), just me over thinking stuff .

Sometimes the sides of canvas frames on a stretcher frame bow inwards towards the middle of each side and this won't look right inside a float frame, which has nice straight sides. So check this out and see if you need to add strainers to prevent the middle of the sides from bowing inwards. This is not difficult to do and the strainers can be held in place with screws and brackets from inside the stretcher framer.

Also maybe worth mentioning for future reference.
Inside each corner of the stretcher frame are two slots, where the keys go. If a canvas is off square it can be made square by fitting these keys and gently adjusting.
once its square, then you can measure and add on your 10mm each side shadow gap.