Underpinning mount slips
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Underpinning mount slips
I thought that sealing wooden slips with acrylic paint was a sound practice, but I've just had to repair a frame for a customer who has just moved house and had the frame wrecked by the removal people. I was suprised to find that the wedges in a 10mm deep hand-finished mount slip had gone rusty and inspite of a good thick coating of acrylic paint the rust had broken through the paint.
There was no signs of any rusting of the wedges in the actual frame at all and no suggestion that any of the rest of the framed package had ever been subjected to any dampness problem. I wonder if the application of the acrylic paint might have something to do with the rust forming.
Any comments?
There was no signs of any rusting of the wedges in the actual frame at all and no suggestion that any of the rest of the framed package had ever been subjected to any dampness problem. I wonder if the application of the acrylic paint might have something to do with the rust forming.
Any comments?
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Acrylic paint is porous. The only proper barrier would be an approved metallic tape or equiv.
In the US we have Lineco http://www.lineco.com/item.cfm?itemnum=L387-0151
and Marvelseal® a metal coated polyester used to package food products.
http://www.archivalsuppliers.com/prodin ... r=974-MARV
In the US we have Lineco http://www.lineco.com/item.cfm?itemnum=L387-0151
and Marvelseal® a metal coated polyester used to package food products.
http://www.archivalsuppliers.com/prodin ... r=974-MARV
Jerome Feig CPF®
http://www.minoxy.com
http://www.minoxy.com
Acrylic paint is waterbased, which is what will have started the rust. You'd need to seal the wedges with an oil primer before applying the acrylic paint to prevent rusting. As for being acceptable practice, it depends on what level of conservation you want to achieve.
Paul Hardy
www.sudbury-picture-frames.co.uk
Paul Hardy
www.sudbury-picture-frames.co.uk
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- Bill Henry
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Again, I am slightly confused with the difference between Yank and Brit terminology. When you speak of a “slip” are you referring to what we barbarians call a “fillet”?
If so, like John, I don’t see the need to under pin them. The ones I deal with are so narrow and shallow that they would take only one nail and that is likely to split them.
Once they are mitered, glued, and fit inside the mount or frame, they ain’t goin’ nowhere. With a “slip” inside a window mount opening, since the “fillet” is generally deeper than the mount, we build up the area between the outside edge of the mount and the interior edge of the “slip” with 3 mm strips of foam board. If the foam board strips are glued or adhered snugly against the slip, it cannot move once the frame package is fit.
Like Jerome, we use the Lineco foil tape to keep the nasty stuff in the wood fillets from migrating to the art. It is a little difficult to work with, though.
We also use this foil tape to line the interior rebate of frames for art mounted on stretcher/strainer bars for the same reason.
If “slips” are not the same thing as “fillets”, well, … never mind!
If so, like John, I don’t see the need to under pin them. The ones I deal with are so narrow and shallow that they would take only one nail and that is likely to split them.
Once they are mitered, glued, and fit inside the mount or frame, they ain’t goin’ nowhere. With a “slip” inside a window mount opening, since the “fillet” is generally deeper than the mount, we build up the area between the outside edge of the mount and the interior edge of the “slip” with 3 mm strips of foam board. If the foam board strips are glued or adhered snugly against the slip, it cannot move once the frame package is fit.
Like Jerome, we use the Lineco foil tape to keep the nasty stuff in the wood fillets from migrating to the art. It is a little difficult to work with, though.
We also use this foil tape to line the interior rebate of frames for art mounted on stretcher/strainer bars for the same reason.
If “slips” are not the same thing as “fillets”, well, … never mind!
Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent! – Porky Pine
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Acrylic paint is porous. It might be better than nothing, but only metal or glass are considered impermeable for the purposes of framing. The easiest and most practical application would be the Lineco tape Bill and Jfeig mentioned.Not your average framer wrote:I was told during some training I received, that acrylic paint could be used to seal wood as an acid barrier. I suspect I may have read something to that effect too, but until I saw that rust can penetrate the acrylic, I had not questioned this at all.
Slightly off topic but a friend who is a teacher once askked an american child she was teaching to bring a rubber to school - ( eraser to those in the USA) - there was quite a lot of confusion on the part of the parents!Not your average framer wrote:It's amazing how a common language gets so confused. I know that in the U.S. fillets and liners are very different, but over here they are both called slips. So when I see the word fillet or liner, I still find myself doing a quick mental check to remember which is which.
Bexwell.
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back again!!!
i looked up lion to see this tape. am i right in thinking that this tape can be used to protect artwork from a gold slip for example that would touch the artwork.
if this is the case why does it say in the lion brochure: do not apply this tape directly to the artwork? do they mean the self adhesive side? because the backing of the tape will touch the artwork wont it?
also lion sells a self adhesive conservation "fillet tape" page 59. is this the same thing?
i looked up lion to see this tape. am i right in thinking that this tape can be used to protect artwork from a gold slip for example that would touch the artwork.
if this is the case why does it say in the lion brochure: do not apply this tape directly to the artwork? do they mean the self adhesive side? because the backing of the tape will touch the artwork wont it?
also lion sells a self adhesive conservation "fillet tape" page 59. is this the same thing?

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Yes, the Lineco frame sealing tape is perfect for sealing the back of a fillet/slip in direct contact with the artwork. The note about not applying it directly to the artwork is simply to make sure nobody gets the silly idea of using it to mount artwork. That would not be good.
The fillet tape is meant as a high-strength tape to attach the fillet/slip to the mount or inside the rebate of a frame.
The fillet tape is meant as a high-strength tape to attach the fillet/slip to the mount or inside the rebate of a frame.