The Framers Forum

Opinions please - What is the best glue for framing ?
Thanks in advance

I'm going to say - Titebond 3 is your best bet.

But because I said it, some will want to disagree.

I only came across Titebond glues many years ago when I needed a specialised glue for making veneered frames.
One of the only people that had it were a luthier's supply company. They imported it themselves from America.
I also remember it being specified in Paul Curson's excellent and trade defining book, 'Framing and Gilding'.

The thing with any wood glue is to use as much pressure as possible on the glue joint. This isn't always possible with just an underpinner, so it's often a good idea to supplement the joining of a large frame with a strap clamp.

If you see 'Gorilla' glue for sale - walk on by.

Another vote for Titebond

We use Titebond 1 the majority of the time, Titebond 3 on occasion.

But a bit like asking, "which is the best mountcutter?", everyone will have their favourite glue, as Vintage has intimated.

Titebond for me, it’s really strong and will rip the wood fibres from the other side of a mitre joint when breaking apart.

I use it and use it when training.

https://www.framersequipment.co.uk/adhe ... eaning.htm

Kind regards
Mitreman

Tite bond for me too, I have 1and 3. On that subject my life was transformed a couple of years ago when I discovered the GluBot to dispense it from.

Titebond 3 here too. If you don't clean it up well enough on Obeche and try to sand it you'll find that it dries stronger than the wood! It dries to a light brown which can be a nuisance with a white moulding if you're not careful. I also have "Weldbond" which does dry clear. (Complete overkill, but when I started out, I found a comparison report that stated that these two were the very strongest tested wood glues...)

Thanks for these responses !!
for those saying Titebond 1 and 3 what’s the deciding factor in which to use ?
Thanks

Titebond 1 will do the job and has the advantage that it's easier to clean up when it over-spills onto the moulding face.

Titebond 3 is a bit of a toughie but will clean up OK. Just remember to wipe away the excess with a damp cloth.

I use Titebond 1 (Original) most of the time, because it dries faster, and is clearer when dried. I make up a lot of flat oak frames, and get a 'perfect' joint at the front by smearing a tiny bit of glue in the join and then sanding. This gives an almost 'closed frame' effect because the sawdust adheres to the glue. This does not work well with Titebond 3.

I use Titebond 3 where I need a bit more 'open' time before the glue goes off - so if I am using strap clamps, for example, but you do need to clean off any overspill carefully.

Titebond 3 is a waterproof/exterior & interior glue. Many of my customers here in west wales live in houses with damp/cold exterior walls so this feels like belt n braces to me. Titebond 1 has an "assembly time" of 4-6 minutes and Titebond 3 of 8-10 mins.
a 30 minute clamp time is advised for all three.
http://www.titebond.com/community/the-b ... emperature.

In the same area of interest, have a look at this guy's production.
Simple clamps and no underpinner.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CuELSsSOn2n/

Love these clamps, I still own a couple of sets, got them back when I worked at magnolia. I love them when repairing old ornate frames that you can’t take apart but have a big gap, they do the clamp job and close the mitre so you can get a screw or nail in and refinish.
Mitreman

Ulmia clamps, brilliant.

I tried Tirebond a while back but gave up as the applicator tended to block easily, I'd be interested to know tips to prevent this happening.

It happens a lot.
The only way of preventing it is to have the discipline to remember to clip the nozzle back down after use.
Otherwise, you need to prise the nozzle up again with the flat of a screwdriver, or pull it off altogether and clean out the nozzle with a nail or some other.

Even if you have been remembering to clip down the nozzle, you can improve things by pulling it up, cleaning any dried glue away with your finger-nail, and then pressing the nozzle back down and up again.

I'm always here to answer your nozzle questions.

when your work table is your design, mounting, joining, glazing and fitting table, you get very anal about cleanliness and tidying up as you go.
I close it down after each use and wipe away the excess from the top.

Thanks again for all the responses ! Very helpful …
Resulting query …
ulmia clamps - don’t they leave dents that need filled

Yes, they do.
Only really meant for those that use bare-wood mouldings.