The Framers Forum

Newbie alert, pls don't shoot!

My wife is a good amateur painter, so I decided to frame her canvases.

I got myself a complete starter kit with a joiner. The L moulding I bought (chop service) is 54mm high, 42mm rebate, frame will be approx size 1020 mm x 1020.

Just realised that the 3/8th (approx 10mm) V nails supplied with the joiner press are not going to get very deep into the moulding. Reading the threads here, this should not be a major problem as it is apparently the glue that give joints their strength.

However, to make sure the L moulding also glues tightly on the front end, what would you recommend as a way to clamp the frame while the glue cures?

Would this kind of "run-of-the-Screwfix" strap clamp work? Any other solution?



Thank you

I would recommend a Stanley band clamp. Far better than the Screwfix offering Imo. It's also worth using a quality PVA like Titebond. The traditional joining method is to use "headless pins", thin nails. If you don't want to invest in a headless pin gun, you can put the frame in a vice, put a pin in your drill to drill pilot holes and hammer them in across the grain of the mitre joint. Use a counter sink to hide it and fill with wood filler.

As Justintime says, it's well worth buying a good quality band clamp, but don't go overboard. The Screwfix ones will do just fine if they are the ones quickly to hand.
For the size of frame you're making, you would need to buy two and 'daisy chain' them around the frame.

I tried those Screwfix clamps. For a few quid more each the Stanley's are much more up to the job...imho!

Not sure about your joiner press, but generally you can stack the v-nails. They sometimes veer off centre so will depend on the thickness of the moulding. If you've only got the exact amount on chop you can practice on some scrap pieces of wood.
For clamping you want a strong bond while the glue dries, so there are a number of ways you can achieve that.
I have a mixture of bar clamps, corner clamps, strap clamps, and 4 way speed clamps that I use depending on the situation. Just beware of denting the frame.

I always make such frames with a raw wood profile and paint it after joining. This way you can clamp/nail it as you wish
and make good any nail holes in the finishing process. You can also colour it to you individual requirements and if it gets
knocked you can repair it perfectly.

In such circumstances these clamps are very handy. At one time every framer used them.

Hello Prospero, Pramsay13, Justintime, Vintage Frames,


Thank you for all your answers, super helpful.

I got the Stanley strap clamp (be it because the band from the Screwfix one was too short 4m in length, Stanley's was just the ticket for my frame). I like the Stanley's clamp, you can tension it quite precisely.

Result was great after glueing and V nailing my mouldings, the angles are really sharp and clean. Had to struggle a bit with centering the canvas inside the try frame – canvas had warped a bit over time so the shadow gap was a tad irregular.

Thank you a lot for your explanations. I had no idea taht framing ha so many "tricks of the trade"... I like that a lot!

prospero wrote: ↑Fri 27 Dec, 2024 12:00 pm I always make such frames with a raw wood profile and paint it after joining. This way you can clamp/nail it as you wish
and make good any nail holes in the finishing process. You can also colour it to you individual requirements and if it gets
knocked you can repair it perfectly.

In such circumstances these clamps are very handy. At one time every framer used them.


spring clamp.jpg

Is there a particular name for that type of clamp in your pic, Prospero?

They were originally Ulmia brand which I think you can still get but they're quite pricey.
I got a similar set for about £30 which work OK.
Search "Spring Clamps".

And just to throw something else into the mix. Have a look at Hoffmann Dovetail Routers! They make this job very easy, but a bit pricey too...

It's worth always checking the squareness of a canvas before deciding on the final size of the frame. If it's off and you're not up for correcting it, then a larger shadow gap will make it less obvious than a small shadow gap.

prospero wrote: ↑Mon 13 Jan, 2025 10:47 pm They were originally Ulmia brand which I think you can still get but they're quite pricey.
I got a similar set for about £30 which work OK.
Search "Spring Clamps".

Thanks, Prospero. I'll be looking into those.

Justintime wrote: ↑Tue 14 Jan, 2025 10:04 am And just to throw something else into the mix. Have a look at Hoffmann Dovetail Routers! They make this job very easy, but a bit pricey too...

Quite pricey, but maybe something to aim for when the time is right.