Deep Rebates

[Keith Stewart]

I seek the sagely advice of the Wise Ones in broadening my knowledge of this fine craft. I've been informed that it is good practice if the backing board (I use 2mm Formakote) is close to level with the back edge of the moulding thereby making it tradelperson ike and easier to apply tape. I use a range of a locally made mouldings that vary in depth from 35mm to 60mm deep. I place 2mm glass, 3mm spacers, injet print mounted onto 3mm or 5mm foamboard, then 3mm or 5mm filler foamboard and finally Formakote. This leaves me with somewhere between 15 mm and 40mm difference from the formakote to the back edge of mouldings. What do the Wise Ones recommend to bridge the distance. Your feedback is appreciated and ensure my ongoing education.
I wait with bated breath,
regards,
Your humble newbie

[WelshFramer]

Sometimes I will pad the back out with fomeboard but generally I don't bother.

Sticky tape can still be applied neatly though I generally make cuts in it so that it sits neatly in the mitres. If I feel like it I will cover the back with a paper dust cover - but I don't often do that.

My problem is that the package is generally too thick for the rebate - 2mm glass + double window mat + art + mountboard + ArtBak is frequently more than a rebate will take.

[prospero]

I can't think why the back should be 'padded out' to bring it level with the back of the frame. Bit of a barmy notion IMHO. Most of the time you struggle to find a deep enough rebate. Taping the the back when the backing is recessed is hardly difficult. Prefeable to trying to drive points in when the back is level with the frame at any rate.
Also, the more air space between the backing in the frame and the wall the better.

That's my fourpenneth....

[iantheframer]

I agree. Packing the back is a waste of materials and time.

Put the tape along the edge and cut it flush against the inside of the moulding and ease the tape down, it may take a little practice but is a much more sensible way of going about things!

Nice part of the world you live, had the pleasure of spending a few weeks in NZ, love to get back one day

[Spit]

Put the tape along the edge and cut it flush against the inside of the moulding and ease the tape down, it may take a little practice but is a much more sensible way of going about things!

That's the way I do things too. It's a lot easier to do with lickysticky tape than SA tape, as the wetness allows you some slideability to help eliminate crinkles.

[markw]

use wide tape!!

[The Crofter]

Just made this one today, SA tape is a bit of a pain but I use a burnisher to smooth out any small folds. Somedays the tape falls neatly into place and on others..... I guess licky tape will be easier to use.

[Roboframer]

If the foamboard offcut situation is getting out of hand I'll pack the back out.

In The States, where most framers use a fairly flimsy dustcover, it's more important.

[Not your average framer]

Apart from "bash it out quick" outfits, I can't see why anyone else would prefer shallow rebates. From a creative point of view deep rebates are wonderful. One moulding I have recently had produced by Norfolk Mouldings has a 20mm deep rebate and that's because that's the way I specified it.

I'm also into deep slips and deep bevel mounts, such things shout quality very loudly to prospective customers. In a "bash it out quick" world, quality sets you apart from your competition better than anything else.

Can I suggest that you invest in a "licky sticky" machine and some gummed paper tape? With a little practice, you'll wonder why you ever bothered with self adhesive tape or were put off by deep rebates.

[Frame Faery]

I concur, as a rule Self adhesive tapes are:-

1. more expensive.
2. more difficult to position.
3. environmentally damaging in their manufacture.
4. prone to become a sticky mess or dry & brittle with age.
5. not breathable.

Gum paper tape is quick, cheap, easy, with a wee roller to wet the stuff.
I made my own from a microwave dish (free) and a replacement roller (£2.50) for those expensive tape machines.
Works a treat, takes up very little space and is very simple.

[John]

I made my own from a microwave dish (free) and a replacement roller (£2.50) for those expensive tape machines.

Sounds like a useful device, Frame Faery. Any chance of a picture?

[Frame Faery]

Sure, I'll dig one out.
It was featured in the FATG mags top tips pages last year.

Then all I got to do is figure out how to post a piccy . . . .

[Frame Faery]

If it's worked you might just see a piccy of my wee roller.

[markw]

I've been watching a piece of licky stick tape for the last ten minutes - its not taken a single breath - should I be worried??

[iantheframer]

Could be hibernating, goes into a low metabolic state. Can still be used though if you are gentle

[prospero]

I do a lot of big frames for oils. Some are 5"+ wide and sometimes have 4 stacked mouldings and a liner. The backs of the frames usually end up looking like a dogs dinner with nail holes and paint dribbles so I always paper the back of the frame with 4" wide licky tape. (Never over the canvas though... ) SA tape would not be an option for this purpose.

[Dave]

If it's worked you might just see a piccy of my wee roller.

Is wee better than water, cheaper I know, but what about the smell?

[Spit]

Is wee better than water, cheaper I know, but what about the smell?

I doubt that it's acid free as well

[Frame Faery]

You tasking the piss out of my wee roller . . . . ?

[John]

Looks the business.

Great idea.

Hope you don't mind if I purloin the idea for our workshop