A tool to attach slip to frame?

[chaos]

Is there a tool to attach a wooden slip to a wooden frame? It is for a frame - glass - chunky slip sandwich for pastels. I have been asked by the artist - her previous framer 'had a tool'.

Or - how would you attach slip to frame please?

Thank you all

[prospero]

You can cut it to a snug fit - in which case it shouldn't need attaching to the frame. Once in the frame and all assembled
it isn't going to move. A dab of glue on the corner if you like.

Or.... Underpin it with 3mm wedges.

If you really do want to fix it to the frame a strip of fillet tape will do the trick but as I say, it shouldn't be necessary.

[chaos]

Thanks prospero, if I was finishing the frame that would be the way I would do it but the frame will be re-used by the artist so I (& she) would prefer the slip was fixed.

The slip will be a bevel (R&H A276, A198 or A201) so a 3mm underpin wont work. Could I use a screw jig to position a screw so it isnt in the way?

[Justintime]

If you're using those R+H mouldings, why can't you underpin with 10mm wedges just as you would with any other moulding? Once you've joined it you can countersink drill and screw the A276 to the frame if you really want to or you could just join it then fix it in with some pva and use a headless pinner to hold it in place.
Btw are you saying that the slip will be under the glass?

[JKX]

Maybe "the tool" the other framer had was a point gun! If the main frame rebate is deeper than the slip you could use points and if it's not, i.e. the slip is proud of the frame you could fire points in to the side of the slip and fix the points to the back of the frame with staples. You could add a bead of glue in either case to prevent any rattling and also to make a seal.

[prospero]

Aha!!

A276 is a Liner rather than a Slip in my philosophy. A slip, strictly speaking is a flat bit with no rebate.

For fixing liners I drill a pilot hole and nail through into the frame with a small pin. It should not penetrate into the frame
more than about 3mm That's enough to hold but makes it easy to prise out the liner without damage should the need arise.

Talking of special tools, I have this gizmo which I bought in a sale many years ago. It's very handy for this job. If you use a normal
hammer you risk knackering the liner if you miss the nail. It's a genuine Morso-branded sliding nail driver. I don't know if such tools
are still made so if you see one on your travels - grab it.

**If you use a normal hammer slip a scrap of mountboard under the nail to defend the liner edge.

pogger.jpg

[chaos]

If you're using those R+H mouldings, why can't you underpin with 10mm wedges just as you would with any other moulding? Once you've joined it you can countersink drill and screw the A276 to the frame if you really want to or you could just join it then fix it in with some pva and use a headless pinner to hold it in place.
Btw are you saying that the slip will be under the glass?

Yes to slip under glass.

I would underpin the R&H moulding s usual. I like the headless pinner idea but I think using screws would allow the artist to remove the slip (liner?) to remove and repaint as she wants.

Thank you.

[chaos]

Aha!!

A276 is a Liner rather than a Slip in my philosophy. A slip, strictly speaking is a flat bit with no rebate.

For fixing liners I drill a pilot hole and nail through into the frame with a small pin. It should not penetrate into the frame
more than about 3mm That's enough to hold but makes it easy to prise out the liner without damage should the need arise.

Talking of special tools, I have this gizmo which I bought in a sale many years ago. It's very handy for this job. If you use a normal
hammer you risk knackering the liner if you miss the nail. It's a genuine Morso-branded sliding nail driver. I don't know if such tools
are still made so if you see one on your travels - grab it.

**If you use a normal hammer slip a scrap of mountboard under the nail to defend the liner edge.

pogger.jpg

I looked through countless posts to get my terminology correct Still got it wrong.

Lovely advice about not penetrating more than 3mm. I always wondered how much is necessary. Thank you.

[chaos]

I had considered using points, the slip/liner is deeper than the frame rebate. But thank you for your advice of stapling the points in place. Why didn't I think of that?

[Justintime]

Or the fletcher multimaster gun, have a look.

[prospero]

Yep. Multipoints are good.

I nail them because I do 100s yearly which are 99% likely to never need removing and nailing is quicker.

[chaos]

Thank you to all - as usual you are such a great source of knowledge and kind & friendly enough to pass it on.

I have order a Multimaster gun & Multipoints

[prospero]

I have order a Multimaster gun & Multipoints

I use multipoints as my default points. I never liked the standard 'framer's points'.
Prior to this I used triangles.

Multipoints are slightly bendy and grip better in hard woods as they have two barbed prongs.
They are also easy to remove.