Framing a silk painting

[rudgey]

I have been ask to frame a silk painting. Not seen it yet so not sure if it’s mounted on board or anything?
Has anyone framed this type of work and can offer any advice? Also if I need to cost in anything to my quote?
Thanks

[JKX]

It’s best to get hold of it and post a photo or two because already mounted or just loose silk will vastly affect methods and costs.

Mist silk paintings I ever dealt with were touristy things, mounted on a stiff fabric like vylene, bordered with green decorative material with a piped edge. They come rolled up in a decorative square tube.

A couple of considerations anyway.

Silk is very light sensitive and loses 50% of its strength after 220 hrs exposure to sunlight.
Unbuffered boards or boards covered with unbuffered tissue are advised. If it’s mounted already then it’s just the back of any window mount in contact with the silk itself to worry about but if it’s like what I’ve described the customer will probably want it float mounted.

[prospero]

I've heat-mounted a few in the past (nothing valuable) and have used drymount film pre-mounted to
a board. This gives you a tacky surface to easily align/smooth the piece. Then, give it just a quick squeeze
in the press. This is sufficient to hold the silk flat but does not form a permanent bond.
It can be peeled off if need be. Bring the press up to full pressure, count to ten and take it out.

[rudgey]

Thank you for for your advice, if I have any problems I will get back to you. It sounds like tourist tat but I could be wrong as I haven’t seen it yet.
Problem I find with these types of artwork, as with oil paintings, which I’m sure you all experience, people buy them cheaply on holiday and don’t want to spend much money getting them framed properly.

[rudgey]

So this is the work that needs framing.
It’s actually very fine silk embroidery, not a painting which I think is on silk but not sure?
They would like it stretched over a cream conservation board as it is translucent, then sink mounted with a window mount.

The issue I have and have told the customer, is how I can safely flatten it as it is badly creased. Such a pity it wasn’t rolled rather than folded.
I am reluctant to lace this fine fabric and they are happy for me to use some acid free tape on the back of the board.

So:
How is the best way to flatten this safely? the artwork, although of a very high standard was purchased for around £150 in China, however, obviously I still don’t want to damage it in anyway.

I said I’d ask my network, you guys, to offer some advice.
The options I have told her, is that I will be able to do it, or that I am not comfortable in doing it and that she could try to do it herself with an iron on a low setting and damp cloth, if that is the correct way?

What would you do, and have you done anything like this before?

As always, thanks for the help.

[JKX]

I’d not touch that until it’s flat and I think it would need a textile conservator, because even if the customer could remove the creases there would probably still be lines where they were. It’s been treated with disrespect and needs repairing.

It would probably cost as much or more than the piece did - then your frame. Should have been rolled, as you say.

If you do manage to get it back flattened then the tight fit method may work or you (or somebody else) could machine sew light calico extensions around it, or it could be sewn to a “donor” piece of fabric like linen, then laced. Customer may get sticker shock if priced properly.

Tape/adhesives for mounting textile art isn’t a thing, well, shouldn’t be!

[Justintime]

I would suggest giving it a light steam from an iron at a distance to help relax the fibres. With gloved hands you can then very gently apply some tension to the piece to help the fibres relax. Then place a piece of reasonably heavy cotton, like table cloth/tea towel fabric over the top and very gently iron. But do not iron directly onto the fabric. If you are nervous about the steam part, you can first place the cotton fabric over the piece and then steam. The best advise is to be slow and methodical and test as you go.

[theframer]

I would ask the customer to take it to the dry cleaners to work there magic on it,

[prospero]

That's a nightmare.

You are never going to get that flat. Even a conservator would struggle.
Silk is very stubborn and any creases tend to become permanent. The fault
lies with whoever folded it up.

[rudgey]

Thank you for the steaming and ironing suggestions, I’ve managed to get it a lot flatter, not perfect but once stretched on board should be ok. I can only work with what I’ve been given, as long as the customer is happy.

[Justintime]

That looks greatly improved. If it is not a rush job, I would persevere. You will get it perfect after a few goes. Have a look at the Newberry method for mounting it onto a board.

[rudgey]

Thanks, Newberry method? That’s a new one to me, hopefully some info on the forum about it?

[JKX]

It depends who you ask!

Well done for getting it so flat. I thought it looked so bad it needed professional help!

Across the pond the Newberry method is cutting an aperture out of foam board, reducing the fallout size slightly, pinning the work to the fallout then fitting it back in to its aperture.

IOW it’s just a sink mount so you may ax well pin it to a board then make it flush with strips of the same type of board that you were probably going to toss out!


Some call the tight fit method, which I’ve mentioned, the Newberry method. The tight fit method is as above but don’t trim the board (well, possibly a sliver), position the work over the fallout then squeeze the aperture back over it. Best to sand all the sharp edges and corners.

I don’t like foam board as a mounting surface, extra thick
conservation board could be used, and bear in mind what I said about unbuffered surfaces in contact.

I’d prefer the sewn-on extensions or donor fabric, then lacing.

[Justintime]

Oct2025_Newberry (1).pdf

Here's what you need

[rudgey]

Thanks for this, great to learn some new.