The Framers Forum

Morning all,

What is the best and least potentially damaging way of staining a new bare wood moulding? So far I'm contemplating, acrylic paint, shoe polish, shoe cream, wax crayon or internal quality wood stain. The latter would be the logical choice but in this case I'm framing a pencil drawing which must be about 100 years old and I want to minimise the risk of cross contamination. The drawing is sitting in an outer card frame I have cut so it won't be in direct contact with the bare wood moulding.

I also wish to colour match as close as possible another related set of 3 photographs in a what I believe is a dark oak frame. This frame is a bit rough but it is authentic, in keeping with the subject matter, a 14th century church with wood beams and I don't want to replace it.

All thoughts will be welcome.

James
JC Picture Framing

Frame finishing materials are of little concern to the artwork as long as everything is perfectly dry, but the rebate can be sealed with foil tape and the glass/mount/undermount sandwich can also be tape sealed, or enclosed.

Mounting methods and conservation grade materials are more important, and so is hanging position.

Thanks JKX.

What would be a good idea if you were to post a photo of the frame you either admire or wish to copy.

That way me, or someone else could suggest a simple finishing technique.

Type of wood?

Thanks for your replies, photograph of both pieces attached.

The wood is ash.

I'm now thinking of using Chestnut Spirit Wood Stain, sample pack on its way.

Van Dyke crystals would be something to look up.
As has been said, if mounted correctly there would be no opportunity for "cross-contamination".
Shoe polish etc, these are not things associated with hand finishing a picture frame.
My advice to anyone in your position, if in doubt do some more training.

I use the Liberon palette wood dyes.

I have a sample board with the colours on it so I would match the closest (maybe dark oak in this instance) and use that, or even mix a couple.

I would then give it two coats, letting it dry in between, and finish with an antique wax and buff with an old cloth.

Well if you've already ordered the Chestnut sample pack, then you've got enough to be going on with.

Test out the colours on some off-cuts and see if you can match the colour you want.
For best results, try mixing the shades and maybe dilute the stains first with some methylated spirits.

When you're done, you're going to need to seal the wood with some shellac sanding sealer-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/32555324701 ... 585417585
100ml will be enough. Apply it diluted 50:50 with meths and with a folded cotton pad.

That will give you the 'background' colour.
For a more solid appearance you need a 'foreground' colour.

Do this by mixing some dry earth pigment into furniture wax and rubbing into the sealed surface of the frame.

Buy the Cyprus Raw Umber Brownish from this selection -
https://www.jacksonsart.com/jackson-s-artist-pigment
and the wax -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36433157852 ... 851015279

Pick up some wax with a cloth, dip it into the pigment and rub it into the frame.
Let it dry and buff to a shine.

If that all sounds a bit complicated then don't do any of that and try someone else's way instead.

Justin, Dermot and others,
Thank you for your various advice.
Wax and sealer ordered and I will experiment on off cuts and see what works best.
Have I understood it correctly that the wood does not need to be sealed to start with because you need the wood to absorb the stain/wax first?
Regards
James

Yes, that's correct.
Let the stain, be it water or spirits, soak into the bare wood first.

As I muttered, the stain will tend to accentuate the wood grain pattern making it a bit artificial looking. That's why I say to add the raw umber which mutes the effect and makes the staining appear more natural.