The Framers Forum

Hi All,

I am working on a project attaching a canvas to a floating/L-shape frame, and have a couple of issues.

First of all, I would ordinarily leave 10mm gap all around the image, as is the norm. However, because this is a collage piece, many of items stuck onto the canvas overlap the edges, this is a bit more tricky as no side is completely straight. See "whole image" photo, that hopefully shows this better.

So, my approach is to measure the absolute furthest dims for length and width, but I fear this still risks looking a bit odd and inconsistent, as some of the widest points are on the sections of stuck-on card at both the top and bottom of the image, and so the extra gap is more noticeable in the more lengthier section between these parts. (This is hard to describe, but I hope it makes sense).

So my first question is, how would you space out this image effectively?

Secondly, because I'm allowing for a liberal amount of width, there really is not much overlap between the canvas and inner edges of the moulding (which the other photos show) and so I'm particularly nervous about drilling through and catching the canvas correctly, or at all.

Are there any alternative ways of attaching the canvas? (note - I'm reluctant to have a supporting frame in between because the client was clear about wanting to have the canvas recessed, and therefore there's no room for lifting it up further).

Thanks

With art where the artist didn't think about how it can/could be framed don't worry too much about that is the "norm" gap between the frame and the art. The artist made their problem, or lack of forethought, yours.

A possible alternative solution is to insert wider slip, either painted or fabric wrapped, under the stretcher bars with a wider gap to allow for the viewers eyes to camouflage the irregularities of the arts border. The wider the border with a wide slip the better would be in order, even 75-100mm.

This is the same principal as a wide mount(visual negative space) on float mounted paper art.

In this situation I think I would measure the canvas, then measure how far past those dimensions the over hanging pieces are. I would only allow maybe three or four mm or less between the overhangs and the inside edge of the tray frame. It will accentuate the fact that some of the pieces are overhanging but retain the dimensions and gap of the original canvas. So if the largest overhang is six mm, I would look at a gap of eight to ten mm in total. I hope that makes sense.

It looks as though you've already made the frame so unless you're prepared to start again the discussion on spacing is moot.
For fitting I would maybe see if I could use canvas offsets, but on the bottom of the moulding inside so they catch the wooden stretchers.
Alternatively if you can afford 2mm height difference add a bit of plywood or mdf on the bottom that only just overlaps the edges and can't be seen from the front, then fix the canvas to that.

Peter, are you referring to offsets in this manner? This could do the job nicely, actually.

I like the MDF idea as well.

Useful stuff, thank you.

pramsay13 wrote: Tue 21 Apr, 2026 3:56 pm It looks as though you've already made the frame so unless you're prepared to start again the discussion on spacing is moot.
For fitting I would maybe see if I could use canvas offsets, but on the bottom of the moulding inside so they catch the wooden stretchers.
Alternatively if you can afford 2mm height difference add a bit of plywood or mdf on the bottom that only just overlaps the edges and can't be seen from the front, then fix the canvas to that.

I've cut and pinned the frame with equal gaps around the edges of the actual canvas and, in line with what you describe, have allowed the overhangs to overlap into the gap without going so far as to touch the frame. Thanks Justin.

Justintime wrote: Tue 21 Apr, 2026 2:31 pm In this situation I think I would measure the canvas, then measure how far past those dimensions the over hanging pieces are. I would only allow maybe three or four mm or less between the overhangs and the inside edge of the tray frame. It will accentuate the fact that some of the pieces are overhanging but retain the dimensions and gap of the original canvas. So if the largest overhang is six mm, I would look at a gap of eight to ten mm in total. I hope that makes sense.

Thanks for your advice, Jerome.

Just so I get this right, are you talking something like this (albeit with the slip of course being all the way round)?

JFeig wrote: Tue 21 Apr, 2026 2:21 pm With art where the artist didn't think about how it can/could be framed don't worry too much about that is the "norm" gap between the frame and the art. The artist made their problem, or lack of forethought, yours.

A possible alternative solution is to insert wider slip, either painted or fabric wrapped, under the stretcher bars with a wider gap to allow for the viewers eyes to camouflage the irregularities of the arts border. The wider the border with a wide slip the better would be in order, even 75-100mm.

This is the same principal as a wide mount(visual negative space) on float mounted paper art.