cricket bat

markw · Post by **markw** » Wed 02 Mar, 2005 11:12 pm

cricket bat - any general hints on fixing said item into box frame- i have a few thoughts about constructing a couple of shaped supports using 10mm foamcore - then using stainless steel fishing line to hold the thing in place - comments appreciated.

Post by **John** » Thu 03 Mar, 2005 7:59 am

I've never done a cricket bat, but just a couple of thoughts: -

The fishing line might dig into the bat, even become embeded over time. Strips of clear flexible plastic might be kinder to the bat by spreading the load more evenly.

Would screwing in to the back of the bat be out of the question?

Please let us know how you eventually proceed. Any chance of a picture of completed the job Mark?

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Thu 03 Mar, 2005 9:34 pm

Hi Mark
Dont know the answer, sorry. But echo John's comment. Photo please on completion.

Did a search on Grumble for a Baseball Bat.

http://www.thegrumble.com/cgibin/ultima ... 1;t=002721

LIONS do plastic clips for knives and guns, just wondering if any of them would be good enough for the handle of the bat.

Dont know if that will help at all..

James Miller · Post by **James Miller** » Fri 04 Mar, 2005 4:15 am

Most such items have sentimental value for their owners, if not monetary value. Changing condition generally reduces value, so I suggest a mounting that is non-invasive and completely reversible.

My preference is clear polyester film, aka Mylar-D (no longer made) or Melinex 516. Both are available from most suppliers of preservation/conservation materials in the USA, and probably elsewhere, too.

I guess a cricket bat would be similar to a baseball bat. For that, cut two straps about 1/2" wide and at least 8" longer than the circumference of the stick. Draw the ends through slots in the mounting board, and secure them to the back with good quality double-sided tape. The best I have found is 3M #889; excellent polyester tape with a very strong acrylic adhesive. Most tapes would not do the job.

The clear film straps are almost invisible, but provide good support, and they will not stretch. Note that lesser polyester or acetate films do not perform as well & may fail.

One detail: When securing the straps on back, fold the strap's end back over itself with tape betweem all layers. The film is very slippery, and folding over prevents pull-out. Use plenty of tape to secure the straps on back -- none on the item, of course. I have a drawing if necessary, which I can send as an email attachment. Contact me directly at ARTFRAME@att.net.

markw · Post by **markw** » Fri 04 Mar, 2005 10:35 am

Thanks Jim for the polyester film tip - now all i need is an address for a supplier in the uk - I know that i have seen a good conservation site - should have bookmarked it - any links appreciated.

Dermot · Post by **Dermot** » Sat 05 Mar, 2005 3:39 pm

When it comes to mounting objects it is hard to beat Jim’s knowledge and when it comes to the use of Mylar ……..Jim’s the man…….I was fortunate to be able to take an education class given by Jim one time, if you ever get the chance to attend a class given by him don’t let it pass…….he is a wealth of practicable framing methods….and he is also a very shrewd business person….

Preservation Equipment Ltd. http://store.preservationequipment.co.u ... trance.cfm Are a good source for “preservation” framing requirements..

Look here http://store.preservationequipment.co.u ... .cfm?p=237

And here http://store.preservationequipment.co.u ... .cfm?cat=8

You can order on line if you want to……..also their new catalogue came out a few months ago…….it’s a great source of supplies for those interested in “preservation” framing…

I’m almost sure that Lion had the Mylar film in their range but I cannot find it in the current catalogue No: 41

Here is another source http://www.secol.co.uk/
http://www.secol.co.uk/POLYESTER.HTM

James Miller · Post by **James Miller** » Sun 06 Mar, 2005 5:24 pm

Dermot wrote:...I was fortunate to be able to take an education class given by Jim one time, if you ever get the chance to attend a class given by him don’t let it pass...

Thanks for your kind words, Dermot. You are a credit to Irish framing, having taken so much time and effort to learn about new methods and materials. We Americans always enjoy your contributions to the PPFA and Grumble sites, as well.

And there's no need for you to come to the USA...just send air tickets and promise me some of your wonderful food & drink.

More So · Post by **More So** » Sat 07 May, 2005 9:31 am

For an interesting solution to the cricket bat problem have a look at the Australian Tudor Glass site.

Navigate to
Product Index

Then
Sports memorabilia mounting apparatus

Framing Norah · Post by **Framing Norah** » Sun 08 May, 2005 1:33 pm

Mark,

I'm sure we are all keen to know, how did you frame your cricket bat in the end?

If we ever had such a job to do, I would be tempted to go for the Tudor Glass option, specially if there was a local stockist. It is a great idea, and judging by the pictures on their site, looks very impressive.

We have been asked from time to time to replace curved glass, it is good to know that in future we will be able to offer our customer something other than a brick wall.

markw · Post by **markw** » Sun 08 May, 2005 5:05 pm

Bat is now with customer and unfortunatly my camera was broken - so no pics ime afraid. - used a similar method to Tudor Glass - but made out of wood not clear plastic. I did explore getting a bracket made from perspex but the cost was restrictive - tudor's solution is brilliant and i will be ordering some in for the next bat.

realhotglass · Post by **realhotglass** » Fri 24 Mar, 2006 1:00 pm

Just to advise all those that expressed interest in our cricket bat mount.

Lion Picture Framing Supplies have taken on the cricket bat mount and sports ball clips for supply in the UK . . . catalogue 42, page 51.

Thanks to all those of you that offered advice to contact Lion re making these items available to UK framers.

Cheers,
Les

Tudor Glass

Not your average framer · Fri 31 Mar, 2006 8:28 pm

I had to frame an engraved regimental dress dagger last year where the customer did not want to see any visible signs of supports and I also put a mirror behind to view the engraving on the reverse side too! Fortunately, the dagger had a small round projection right on the end of the handle, so I was able to frame it in a deep rebate box section ash moulding with ramin flat spacers behind the glass and a suitable hole in the top spacer and the tip of the blade pressed into the bottom spacer. It works quite well, but if asked to do it again I would avoid one thing I did. That was to stain the ash and the ramin black, you would be amazed how hard it was to get all out all the tiny little dust specks which normally are to small ever to be seen. The black mouldings and the mirror at the back means that absolutely anything no matter how tiny stands out. The black moulding and the mirror was my suggestion, it did look really good, but took far longer than I could beleive at the time - I'll know better in future!

Having said all that the same technique for a cricket bad would need something much more substantial than a 6mm thick spacer section. I probably would decline the job, if I could not do it without screwing into the cricket bat. For me any memorabilia is automatically a conservation job and any thing done to the item must be fully reversable without any signs the anything had ever been done to it at all!
Cheers,
Mark

realhotglass · Post by **realhotglass** » Sat 01 Apr, 2006 9:15 am

Yes Mark, I agree 100% with you regarding memorabilia mounting.
In fact, I developed these mounts when I did The Art & Framing Trade Fair in Brisbane (QLD, Australia) in 2001.

We had made 2 convex glasses, one each to frame a cricket bat and a cricket ball to display.
Because they were just exhibit pieces, I just had my framer screw them (the bat with wedges to hold steady at the back) to support.

But it got me thinking, if it was a valuable, genuine memorabilia bat (or ball), I sure wouldn't want to screw it or damage it in any way, and have it fully reversible.

I thought about it off and on for a year, and came up with our current design a couple of years later; it works very well.

Your comments re the dagger mounting make me smile.
Customers sure think framers are magicians sometimes : )

Fancy expecting to see no mounting method, AND with a mirror behind.
What on earth would you do if he wanted some airspace top and bottom of the dagger, and you couldn't use the top projection or knife point ?

I've had numerous of my framer clients tell me over the years that 'customers either want to see nothing at all of the mounting method, or if the mounts must be visible, they really want to then be able to see how it mounts'.

Mylar (Melinex / polyester sheet) is also a great mounting product.

Cheers,
Les