Presses
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Presses
Hi all,
Does anyone know if you can get a hot press that's small, ie. does A3 tops?
I'm often interested in Hot Presses Hot Presses range, but don't have the space to accomodate one.
I may get a press one day, but was wondering if small ones are out there...
Thanks,
Sean
Does anyone know if you can get a hot press that's small, ie. does A3 tops?
I'm often interested in Hot Presses Hot Presses range, but don't have the space to accomodate one.
I may get a press one day, but was wondering if small ones are out there...
Thanks,
Sean
Re: Presses
I know Ademco used to do a hard-bed about 12x18. Small enough for one person to move about. The bigger ones are massive lumps. There aught to be some floating about on the second-hand market.
Not sure what is the smallest vacuum you can get. Although vacs need a bigger 'footprint', they are lighter and can be built into a bench. I made a table to fit mine where the top lifts up when you want to use the press.
Not sure what is the smallest vacuum you can get. Although vacs need a bigger 'footprint', they are lighter and can be built into a bench. I made a table to fit mine where the top lifts up when you want to use the press.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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Re: Presses
I've been watching Ademco presses on ebay for a few months. The larger ones come up all the time, and are quite cheap. You'd probably pay more for courier delivery than for the press itself. Haven't noticed a small one come up, so i suspect there are far fewer around.
The other option would be a roller press for cold mounting.
The other option would be a roller press for cold mounting.
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Re: Presses
Thanks guys, there's an Ademco press on Ebay at the moment:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ademco-Dry-Mounti ... 240%3A1318
but not knowing what model it is or how much it's worth it's hard to tell - as for Ademco, I think they ceased as a business about 13 years ago.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ademco-Dry-Mounti ... 240%3A1318
but not knowing what model it is or how much it's worth it's hard to tell - as for Ademco, I think they ceased as a business about 13 years ago.
Re: Presses
Looks like an old model judging by the finish. But at that price you can't really go wrong. It's probably worth that in scrap value.
There is another on EBay (Hampshire ). £550. Bit on the high side. Also a 4x3ft vacuum press £350. Better value but it's a bigun.
There is another on EBay (Hampshire ). £550. Bit on the high side. Also a 4x3ft vacuum press £350. Better value but it's a bigun.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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Re: Presses
OK - Now for the GOOD NEWS!!! If you would like a "GENUINE" Hot Press - Hot Glass Vacuum Press - to handle A3's -it just so happens that I can help you out...
You won't find it in any catalogues or anywhere on the internet...
But if you want to get in touch I can give you more info on our new Super A3 Press!!!
You won't find it in any catalogues or anywhere on the internet...
But if you want to get in touch I can give you more info on our new Super A3 Press!!!
Your too late I'm afraid - I retired in April 2024
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Re: Presses
I'd say a lot on the high side - 2 Ademco presses have sold in ebay auctions in the last month. They went for £100 and £132 respectively.prospero wrote: There is another on EBay (Hampshire ). £550. Bit on the high side.
That one for £550 has been there for months, and frankly if he wants to sell it he's going to have to put a realistic price on it!
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Re: Presses
For months read years! He has had it advertised on an off for at least 18 months.
I had a 22x26 with stand that I sold on ebay for £120 about 2yrs ago when I ran out of room. Now I have more room I often wish i still had it.
John.
I had a 22x26 with stand that I sold on ebay for £120 about 2yrs ago when I ran out of room. Now I have more room I often wish i still had it.
John.
Re: Presses
The only reasons I don't sell mine is that I would get bugger all for it and if I didn't have it my vacuum press would break down.Jonny2morsos wrote:For months read years! He has had it advertised on an off for at least 18 months.
I had a 22x26 with stand that I sold on ebay for £120 about 2yrs ago when I ran out of room. Now I have more room I often wish i still had it.
John.
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Re: Presses
Prospero is right, you really can't go wrong. I've been inside mine to re-wire it, because the old rubber insulated cable had become dangerous, but it gave me the chance to see what's inside it. All it consists of, is a heater element and a temperature control device called a "Simmerstat".prospero wrote:Looks like an old model judging by the finish. But at that price you can't really go wrong. It's probably worth that in scrap value.
Simmerstats a still manufactured, but never go wrong anyway and the heater element never gets hot enough to operate at anything remotely approaching it's rated performance, so it should last virtually for ever. They're build like tanks too! For about £100, they are great value and you will soon be earning a lot more than what you had to pay for it.
Mark Lacey
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
“Life is short. Art long. Opportunity is fleeting. Experience treacherous. Judgement difficult.”
― Geoffrey Chaucer
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Re: Presses
Hi All
Being a press virgin, a quick question for you all.
Which is the preferred and best laminator to use between an Ademco 'crank that wheel' type or a Jet mount roller driven laminator (JM44 as an example)? I am hoping you do not say, "It's horses for courses"........ It is just a case of which is most versatile and if you were to press the exact same piece of work on both, which would do the best job? Which one is easiest to use and which has the greater benefit and why? Is the vacuum press the one to aspire to?
Regards
Deepjoy
Being a press virgin, a quick question for you all.
Which is the preferred and best laminator to use between an Ademco 'crank that wheel' type or a Jet mount roller driven laminator (JM44 as an example)? I am hoping you do not say, "It's horses for courses"........ It is just a case of which is most versatile and if you were to press the exact same piece of work on both, which would do the best job? Which one is easiest to use and which has the greater benefit and why? Is the vacuum press the one to aspire to?
Regards
Deepjoy
- Jonny2morsos
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Re: Presses
Hotpress HGP220 unused! for sale on ebay.
Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HOT-PRESS-VACUUM- ... 240%3A1318
They discontinued this samller version a while ago but if you only need it for smaller stuff could be what yo need.
John.
Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HOT-PRESS-VACUUM- ... 240%3A1318
They discontinued this samller version a while ago but if you only need it for smaller stuff could be what yo need.
John.
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Re: Presses
"Well it's horses for courses" - only joking - I'll try to answer your questions, but first of all, let's answer the question "which is easier to use"...DEEPJOY wrote:Hi All
Being a press virgin, a quick question for you all.
Which is the preferred and best laminator to use between an Ademco 'crank that wheel' type or a Jet mount roller driven laminator (JM44 as an example)? I am hoping you do not say, "It's horses for courses"........ It is just a case of which is most versatile and if you were to press the exact same piece of work on both, which would do the best job? Which one is easiest to use and which has the greater benefit and why? Is the vacuum press the one to aspire to?
Regards
Deepjoy
Well you need to go with me here - with a couple of analogies...
Operating a Jetmounter Roll Laminator is like learning to ride a bike - we can all do it - but we all fall off a few times on the way. This is to say that Jetmounters need to be "practiced on" before you attempt commercial work - but once mastered they are simple enough to operate.
I have sold many types of heat presses over the last twenty odd years - hard beds / soft beds / vacuum beds (BTW - the is no such press type as a "flatbed" - that really bugs me - all presses have a flat bed & the term is applied to printing presses - not mounting presses - OK stress over... ).
Soft beds are only available second hand or from the states (voltage issues) - the last company making hard beds stopped production two years ago - so unless your looking second hand - it is a vacuum or ebay...
Using a Hot Glass Vacuum Press is the norm these days & due to the heating technology it is "virtually" impossible to damage your work with heat - go on someone - tell me you have toasted a concert ticket or a baby scan
Any way - you can get great results with these - right from picture no1 - so they are - in effect "idiot proof". the trouble is - "idiot proof" machines encourage "idiotic practices" - so I strongly recommend getting on a free course - which teaches you by "other peoples mistakes" - rather than your own!!!
Now for the question - "which machines does what best"...
Presses are better for - taking out creases / mending ripped paper / mounting fabrics / laminating inkjet canvas / steam ironing watercolours / mounting chinese oils & those flippin' awful charcoal drawings that people bring back from Spain. The materials are also cheaper than for the cold system & if a mounted job needs reversing - there are "ways & means" if it has been done using heat.
Jetmounters are better for - handling super glossy prints / mounting to acrylic/perspex / mounting heat sensitive materials (like baby scans) / mounting to plastic boards (like foamex) / there is more choice in over lamination textures - the machines start fairly cheaply at around £600.
I hope that helps & gives an unbias overview of both systems - they both have merits - otherwise there would be only one system!!!!
But the best advice is book a free course & see both systems before you part with any hard earned cash. If someone has a "hot one" they will tell you that it is the best... If someone has a "cold one" they will tell you that is the best - but if someone has both - they are worth listening to...
Your too late I'm afraid - I retired in April 2024
Re: Presses
I like your signature Steve!
I have an old 'mangle' type press - bought it second hand a few years ago - it was fun driving it back - looked like I had a steering wheel in the back! Getting it out of the car gave my (ex) framer a week off work - bless him! I mean, 27 is getting on a bit.
The on/off switch packed in soon after, so I by-passed it and it turns on and off at the plug socket now. The temp gauge tells me I should have that extremely rare tropical condition - frostbite! But the thermostat works and so does the thermometer.
What I do like about it though, is that it is tough - I can pile junk on top of it until it can't be seen - just move it all away when I need to use it - in fact if it's junk that does not melt, or won't spin off the wheel - it can stay!
Thing is a vacuum press has a larger area, lower too - and, as long as it's strong enough, I could get more junk on it. But it's got a glass top, not an iron one, so I'm guessing it would not be a good option for me?
I have an old 'mangle' type press - bought it second hand a few years ago - it was fun driving it back - looked like I had a steering wheel in the back! Getting it out of the car gave my (ex) framer a week off work - bless him! I mean, 27 is getting on a bit.
The on/off switch packed in soon after, so I by-passed it and it turns on and off at the plug socket now. The temp gauge tells me I should have that extremely rare tropical condition - frostbite! But the thermostat works and so does the thermometer.
What I do like about it though, is that it is tough - I can pile junk on top of it until it can't be seen - just move it all away when I need to use it - in fact if it's junk that does not melt, or won't spin off the wheel - it can stay!
Thing is a vacuum press has a larger area, lower too - and, as long as it's strong enough, I could get more junk on it. But it's got a glass top, not an iron one, so I'm guessing it would not be a good option for me?
- Steve Goodall
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Re: Presses
If your looking to store junk on top of your press - a vacuum could be right up your street - as it is lower - you can pile junk higher - before hitting the ceiling
As for the glass - 6mm of toughened glass will take a hell of a load of weight - I used to walk over the top of press lids at our Northampton factory (it's faster than walking round when they are cluttering the floor) - until the chief engineer promised me that he would kill me if I walked on his presses again with dusty shoes
I mounted my first picture on a hard bed press - way back in 1979 & I did a talk for the FATG in Croydon a few months ago - using only Wessex's training school hard bed. I have a ot of affection for them & it is a pity that no one is making them anymore - but the demand just "died away".
A popular misconception about hard bed & vacuum bed machines is that a hard beds can do massive work & fit into a small space - where as a vacuum takes up lots of room....
The reality is if you have no space - you can't do big work - as you have to shuffle big jobs back & forth in the hard bed - so you need twice as much room - but hey I love a good urban myth
As for the signature - I wouldn't want to come in disguise - I am here to help & if I can't offer a balanced opinion I'll try to keep my big mouth shut!!!
As for the glass - 6mm of toughened glass will take a hell of a load of weight - I used to walk over the top of press lids at our Northampton factory (it's faster than walking round when they are cluttering the floor) - until the chief engineer promised me that he would kill me if I walked on his presses again with dusty shoes
I mounted my first picture on a hard bed press - way back in 1979 & I did a talk for the FATG in Croydon a few months ago - using only Wessex's training school hard bed. I have a ot of affection for them & it is a pity that no one is making them anymore - but the demand just "died away".
A popular misconception about hard bed & vacuum bed machines is that a hard beds can do massive work & fit into a small space - where as a vacuum takes up lots of room....
The reality is if you have no space - you can't do big work - as you have to shuffle big jobs back & forth in the hard bed - so you need twice as much room - but hey I love a good urban myth
As for the signature - I wouldn't want to come in disguise - I am here to help & if I can't offer a balanced opinion I'll try to keep my big mouth shut!!!
Your too late I'm afraid - I retired in April 2024
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Re: Presses
Just thought I'd add my two-penneth by saying that anyone who's thinking of getting any sort of press would find it worthwhile investing time in one of Hot Press's training days. The courses are free and - yes - you even get a free lunch.
Even if you're thinking of buying a press that isn't made by Hot Press the course is still worthwhile - and you'll be made just as welcome. After all, you'll still be a candidate for Hot Press's adhesives. I have an Ademco vacuum press and I found the course invaluable.
Even if you're thinking of buying a press that isn't made by Hot Press the course is still worthwhile - and you'll be made just as welcome. After all, you'll still be a candidate for Hot Press's adhesives. I have an Ademco vacuum press and I found the course invaluable.
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Re: Presses
I have to agree with Welshframer, the Hot Press training is great.
Steve,
You mention mounting chinese oils in a vacuum press, could we have more details on this please? substrate, temps time etc.
Thanks
Leo
Steve,
You mention mounting chinese oils in a vacuum press, could we have more details on this please? substrate, temps time etc.
Thanks
Leo
- Steve Goodall
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Re: Presses
aahhh yes - those lovely mass produced oil paintings that often get sold door to door by people posing as struggling art students trying to make their way through college by selling their work - or sold in mediteranean villages by "local artists" - all good fun & profitable too - if a "little" dishonest at times.....
OK so how do we tackle them???
Well the first thing to ask is - "why stick them down"??? - the answer usually being that because they have been "creased by the weight of my flip flops & cheap vodka in my holiday suitcase and look a mess". They seldom have any spare canvas for stretching - so mounting is an obvious solution.
The next comment & question is - "they are an original piece - will I impair their value by glueing them to a board"??? - the answer is "what value"??? They have no commercial value as an original & will certainly not appreciate in value in the future - so the choice is - "do you want them to look good" or "do you want to maintain their value of around £5 & look rubbish.
Assuming we want them to look good I have two ways that I handle this type of work - the first is pretty radical - but it works a treat!!! Cut a piece of MDF (3mm) which you will also use for the back of the frame (cheapskate) - or if you prefer - cut a piece of good quality "impact board" - such as white display board or similar. Do not use foamboard / mountboard / corrigated board / grey board / pulp board - as these are all too soft & will soak up the adhesive we are about to use...
Next take a tin of carpet tile adhesive spray (B&Q do a great one) - ventilate your room & spray your backing board librally. After you have recovered from the fume induced high - take your painting & pat it down carefully on to the tacky board in the desired position & then cover the entire board with a piece of silicone film or paper. You will be throwing this film or paper away at the end - so maybe use an old piece.
Now place the work into your press & cover the assembly with several sheets of foam & apply pressure - BUT NO HEAT for about ten minutes - result a painting "welded" to board. The reason for the foam by the way is to stop the platen of your machine from crushing raised areas of paint.
The second method is slightly "more professional" but will require investment in a roll of Dry Mount Film (don't worry it has lots of other uses too - once it is under the work bench).
Firstly set your press for 90 degrees C or 195 degrees F & let it warm up. As it is warming cut yourself a piece of MDF or White Display Board again & cut a piece of Dry Mount Film to the size of the painting or 10mm larger if you have left a board of board. Normally Drymount Film needs piercing - to allow air movement - but this combination of art & board breathe OK - so you can skip that step.
Now peel back one backing paper of the film & press it onto your board - it is "self tacking" so it will stay where it is put. Now place your board & adhesive in the press & press it for about 4 mintues - remember the second liner paper should still be affixed to the film - to protect it at this stage.
When your film has bonded to the board & whilst the board is still hot - peel back an edge of the second release paper & attach the edge of your oil - gently pulling the rest of the liner away as you smooth the artwork down. This latent heat will allow the picture to "tack" but not stick to the board.
Finally repeat as before cover the assembly with silicone film or paper & then cover this with some sheets of foam & cook at the same temp (90) for around 5 to 6 minutes. Result - a painting beautifully stuck down - with a barrier layer of plastic within the mount film to stop acids attacking your "masterpiece" from behind long into the future...
Incidently - I have two lovely greek fishing village scenes in my bathroom - lovely to look at whilst soaking the strains of the day away with a glass of Retsina
OK so how do we tackle them???
Well the first thing to ask is - "why stick them down"??? - the answer usually being that because they have been "creased by the weight of my flip flops & cheap vodka in my holiday suitcase and look a mess". They seldom have any spare canvas for stretching - so mounting is an obvious solution.
The next comment & question is - "they are an original piece - will I impair their value by glueing them to a board"??? - the answer is "what value"??? They have no commercial value as an original & will certainly not appreciate in value in the future - so the choice is - "do you want them to look good" or "do you want to maintain their value of around £5 & look rubbish.
Assuming we want them to look good I have two ways that I handle this type of work - the first is pretty radical - but it works a treat!!! Cut a piece of MDF (3mm) which you will also use for the back of the frame (cheapskate) - or if you prefer - cut a piece of good quality "impact board" - such as white display board or similar. Do not use foamboard / mountboard / corrigated board / grey board / pulp board - as these are all too soft & will soak up the adhesive we are about to use...
Next take a tin of carpet tile adhesive spray (B&Q do a great one) - ventilate your room & spray your backing board librally. After you have recovered from the fume induced high - take your painting & pat it down carefully on to the tacky board in the desired position & then cover the entire board with a piece of silicone film or paper. You will be throwing this film or paper away at the end - so maybe use an old piece.
Now place the work into your press & cover the assembly with several sheets of foam & apply pressure - BUT NO HEAT for about ten minutes - result a painting "welded" to board. The reason for the foam by the way is to stop the platen of your machine from crushing raised areas of paint.
The second method is slightly "more professional" but will require investment in a roll of Dry Mount Film (don't worry it has lots of other uses too - once it is under the work bench).
Firstly set your press for 90 degrees C or 195 degrees F & let it warm up. As it is warming cut yourself a piece of MDF or White Display Board again & cut a piece of Dry Mount Film to the size of the painting or 10mm larger if you have left a board of board. Normally Drymount Film needs piercing - to allow air movement - but this combination of art & board breathe OK - so you can skip that step.
Now peel back one backing paper of the film & press it onto your board - it is "self tacking" so it will stay where it is put. Now place your board & adhesive in the press & press it for about 4 mintues - remember the second liner paper should still be affixed to the film - to protect it at this stage.
When your film has bonded to the board & whilst the board is still hot - peel back an edge of the second release paper & attach the edge of your oil - gently pulling the rest of the liner away as you smooth the artwork down. This latent heat will allow the picture to "tack" but not stick to the board.
Finally repeat as before cover the assembly with silicone film or paper & then cover this with some sheets of foam & cook at the same temp (90) for around 5 to 6 minutes. Result - a painting beautifully stuck down - with a barrier layer of plastic within the mount film to stop acids attacking your "masterpiece" from behind long into the future...
Incidently - I have two lovely greek fishing village scenes in my bathroom - lovely to look at whilst soaking the strains of the day away with a glass of Retsina
Your too late I'm afraid - I retired in April 2024
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Re: Presses
Hi Steve
Thank you and all the framers for the help and support on this topic. I think at some point it will be worth booking myself on the course as recommended. It was the free lunch that swung it.
Very Best Regards
Mike Deepjoy
Thank you and all the framers for the help and support on this topic. I think at some point it will be worth booking myself on the course as recommended. It was the free lunch that swung it.
Very Best Regards
Mike Deepjoy
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Re: Presses
Hi Steve
Sorry to be a pain, but where can I get the dates and ventue of the Hot Press courses? Is it a case of just visiting their site?
Regards
Mike Deepjoy
Sorry to be a pain, but where can I get the dates and ventue of the Hot Press courses? Is it a case of just visiting their site?
Regards
Mike Deepjoy