The Framers Forum

Hi,
I have stretched canvases over the years but not as many as you'd think.
Sometimes I have used stretcher bar moulding ( from Simons or Lion ) and sometimes I order stretcher bars to size. I'm never going to do that many canvases and for convenience I would prefer to use stretcher bar moulding. Simons do a new 2-way gallery stretcher bar moulding (K/359) with a plywood moulding that you can cut a wedge out of (for the corners).

Considering that I probably won't be doing stretching of "Fine Art" canvases do you think that using Stretcher bar moulding is a credible alternative ? I'd be interested to know if anyone uses the stetcher moulding out of choice ?

Thanks,
Bagpuss

I have tried the the 'triangle in the corner' system. It works up to a point, but the bars to tend to twist around if you have to apply extra tension. Particually on bigger sizes. IMHO there really isn't a substitute for 'proper' bars with expandable joints.

btw. I can heartily reccomend Lion bars (Not the nutty choc ones). They are well machined and made from nice timber which laminated lengthwise so they don't twist. Plywood wedges that actually fit.

I use the simons two way moulding hell of a lot, we turn around about 15 to 20 canvasses a week so for me its an excellent product, but I would not use it on anything bigger than 20 x 16, one thing you can is use the wooden fillet as a brace bar glued and pinned to the moulding which will stop it bowing but dosn't really help with the twist. It also works well on difficult sizes being able to cut it any size, I would use the gallery strechers from lion for bigger canvasses which are an excellent robust bar once joined and wedged these do not twist. Another thing is I do alot of canvases for an event photographer in cornwall, so they have to be posted and the simons mouldings works well because it weighs alot lighter than the lion bar so cutting down on postage costs which as we all know isn't cheep these days.

Its a personnel choice because there is good and bad in both products.
Have a play with both!

Adrian

One way to beef up the triangle-type bars on bigger sizes is to make a crosspiece(s) out of the same thickness board as the triangles, which fits nicely into the slot anywhere along the length. Cople of little screws will hold it. In fact it's an good idea to brace the triangles with little screws in the slots to stop them ever slipping back.

One way I tried once to make odd sized bars is to get two sets of std bars. the next size up from what you want. Cut a piece out of the middles of the first set to bring them to the right size. Then do the same with the other set, but cut pieces from two places near the ends. Then glue/screw them back to back and the joins are staggered. Makes a very sturdy job and you get double joints on the ends. It's rather a PITA exercise though but it's an option if you are stuck and the budget will stand it.

Hi ,
I have stretched hundreds of canvas prints over the past year or two. Since they are nearly always odd sizes
I use Lion two way or equivalent( made by a local company -Unique - Glasgow). I regularly do up to 30"x40" or bigger and never have any problem (I occassionaly make up a brace if I think it is necessary). I think the secret lies in the tension you put on the canvas - get it correct and you have no problem.
Restretching originals can be done the same way-sometimes you have to take out any wrinkles at the edges after a while but as long as you tell the client in advance you should have no complaints.
Sure beats using screws or cutting and joining stretcher bar.
Happy stretching,

Tom

I'll try not to shamelessly plug my own product too much on this one which solves most of the above problems!

However, I'm not much of a fan of cut, pin and stretching, never have been. Stretcher bars all the way for me.....

A lady came in the other day to show me some of her canvas printing efforts. They were her own photo images and they were very good. Printing first rate too, sealed and everything. Unfortunately, she stretched them on a simple wooden frame. Not even stretcher bar moulding. Sagging a bit in the middle with a bump where the inside edge of the bars was. (the prints not the lady.)

Whats that saying about a hap'eth of tar.

wunderbar wrote:I'll try not to shamelessly plug my own product too much on this one which solves most of the above problems!

However, I'm not much of a fan of cut, pin and stretching, never have been. Stretcher bars all the way for me.....

Are you runnning your stretcher moulding in Tulip? What's the biggest size you do?

All out of Tulip Wood 33mm x 57mm. We can pretty much do any size bespoke. What sort of size do you go up to ?

4.2m!

I am a stretcher bar manufacturer - laminated redwood mainly. We machine our own moulding.


Hugh