How to make a Plinth?

[Fee]

Hi Everyone,
I have been asked to mount a golf putter on a plinth, covered in green baize. Does anyone have any ideas how to go about this - in particular what moulding ( actual reference would be good) and the best way to attach the club. Many thanks.

[Roboframer]

Mitre a suitable moulding on its side, this will give you a 'seat' to fix a board covered with fabric.

If you use a Morso it needs to be a 'Morso friendly' moulding as the back of the cut will be a long cut - avoid plaster coated ones (this one was coated though!)

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As for mounting - is the plinth going to be in a frame?

[Fee]

Hi Robboframer

Many thanks for your reply and pics - which always help. I will give it a go. Cheers

[Fee]

PS

Sorry .. didnt notice your last question. I dont think it is to be put in a frame ( to be confirmed) however if you can suggest how I could also frame it that would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Not your average framer]

I have not only found that a lot of mouldings which I would like to use for a plinth can be extremely difficult to cut on a Morso, but also trying to join them on an underpinner can prove very troublesome too!

Very often using a newly sharpened pair of blades can make a really big difference, even when the blades you have just changed did not appear to need sharpening. John (Robo) is not joking about gesso coated moulding, but I've had plenty of problems with non-coated mouldings too.

One particular problem for me is mouldings which break away at the bottom edge on the outside of the moulding.

This often is due to a small radius on the moulding, sometimes there is no significant radius there at all, but you happen to hit a soft patch in the wood and get a rough cut.

Why is it that some of the best mouldings from a cutting and joining point of view look grotty, but so many really stunning looking mouldings which would be just right for plinths are so often a pain to cut and join side on?

Getting back to the joining issue, I have tried using a band clamp. Sometimes with success, but sometimes the band clamp leaves a shiney mark on the finish, even though there is not any indentation, etc.

I still have one of those hand operated underpinners where you place the wedge but hand onto a magnet and squeeze it into the mouldings by pulling downwards on a handle. This can be quite helpful as a wedge inserted at the top into the rebate can keep everything lined up while you stick wedges in from the opposite position using your normal underpinner.

I'm not suggesting that I've got things perfect yet, in fact I still I'm looking for the
Ideal way of doing things, but there is more than one way of tackling jobs like this.

I would like to know, if anyone has a perfect, surefire method which works with every moulding, everytime. Also if anyone can recommend any first class mouldings which look the business, plus cut and join side on really well too!