I have just bought a Keencut Laser Mount cutter, but I need to know how to callebrate it. At the moment it if I set a 50mm border on all sides the top cut is short and the left and bottom cuts are not 50mm. Does anyone know hwo I over come this? I have used on of these machines many years ago but have forgotten. Any help would be a godsend.
Many thanks
Nigel
Advice on callebrating a Keencut Laser
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Roboframer
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Dermot
I could not find a manual for the Laser……but this is the link to the Keencut Ultimate Gold…….perhaps you might get some information there….
http://www.keencut.co.uk/mat_cutters/pd ... ual_uk.pdf
I think if you email Keencut they would send you the manual for the Laser
Good luck
Dermot
http://www.keencut.co.uk/mat_cutters/pd ... ual_uk.pdf
I think if you email Keencut they would send you the manual for the Laser
Good luck
Dermot
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Hi,
The Keencut Laser came after the Keencut Ace and before the original Keencut Ultimat. I had a brief look at a Keencut Laser and the Venton open day, just because I had never seen one before, unfortunately not a good enough look to help answer the question.
However, for what it's worth I do own a Keencut Dart (the smaller version of the Ace) which I used to use at home, but for much longer - I just bought a bigger, but even older C & H. At work I own an original Keencut Ultimat, so looking at what has or has not changed between the Ace/Dart and the Ulimat, I hope I can come close to getting it right (or at least give it my best shot!).
Before the Ulitmat gold came along, you did not have those nice little knobs to dial out the undercuts and overcuts. For the mat guide, (the long movable bit the mountboard rests against), there is a movable scale/rule which should be a tight fit in an aulminium extrusion, but can be pushed in either direction to correct any errors.
The start of cut stop, (or finger) is positioned according to another scale/rule - On the Dart/Ace there is a little black finger screw which when released allows this scale/rule to be moved, but on the original Ultimat there is a movable scale/rule the same as the mat guide.
The end of cut stop on the Dart/Ace has a screw which can be screwed in or out of this stop to calibration the distance between the cutting head stop position and the end of cut stop. This screw is locked with another screw when the correct setting is found. The original Ulitmat again has the same movable scale/rule as for the previous two stops. If you need any further help, try phoning Keencut on 01536 205181. You will probably get put through to John or Andy (The M.D.), both are very helpful and friendly.
I've never used a Laser, but as the owner of their Ultimat, Oval 6, System 4000 and Dart, I can tell you I have been well pleased with them all. When I adjust my Ultimat I use an 8 times photographic "lupe" (it's a magnifying glass) to check for under-cuts or over-cuts during calibration. A quick tip (you probably know this anyway), set the blabe depth first - it should just cut into the slip mat under the mount you are cutting by only a little. Hope some of this helps!
Cheers,
Mark
The Keencut Laser came after the Keencut Ace and before the original Keencut Ultimat. I had a brief look at a Keencut Laser and the Venton open day, just because I had never seen one before, unfortunately not a good enough look to help answer the question.
However, for what it's worth I do own a Keencut Dart (the smaller version of the Ace) which I used to use at home, but for much longer - I just bought a bigger, but even older C & H. At work I own an original Keencut Ultimat, so looking at what has or has not changed between the Ace/Dart and the Ulimat, I hope I can come close to getting it right (or at least give it my best shot!).
Before the Ulitmat gold came along, you did not have those nice little knobs to dial out the undercuts and overcuts. For the mat guide, (the long movable bit the mountboard rests against), there is a movable scale/rule which should be a tight fit in an aulminium extrusion, but can be pushed in either direction to correct any errors.
The start of cut stop, (or finger) is positioned according to another scale/rule - On the Dart/Ace there is a little black finger screw which when released allows this scale/rule to be moved, but on the original Ultimat there is a movable scale/rule the same as the mat guide.
The end of cut stop on the Dart/Ace has a screw which can be screwed in or out of this stop to calibration the distance between the cutting head stop position and the end of cut stop. This screw is locked with another screw when the correct setting is found. The original Ulitmat again has the same movable scale/rule as for the previous two stops. If you need any further help, try phoning Keencut on 01536 205181. You will probably get put through to John or Andy (The M.D.), both are very helpful and friendly.
I've never used a Laser, but as the owner of their Ultimat, Oval 6, System 4000 and Dart, I can tell you I have been well pleased with them all. When I adjust my Ultimat I use an 8 times photographic "lupe" (it's a magnifying glass) to check for under-cuts or over-cuts during calibration. A quick tip (you probably know this anyway), set the blabe depth first - it should just cut into the slip mat under the mount you are cutting by only a little. Hope some of this helps!
Cheers,
Mark
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Roboframer