i have a framing job to do which involves, three poster type 900mm x300mm laminated notices being mounted and framed in the one ash or beech frame which will be displayed outdoors.
i can forsee at least five problems,
no. 1 how to mount the laminates,
2 will the mountboard become very damp,
3 how to seal the frame and mitre joints,
4 what type of backing to use,
5 how to seal the overall picture
framewright
weatherproofing
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framewright
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun 02 Apr, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Ireland
weatherproofing
Framewright
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Roboframer
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framewright
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun 02 Apr, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Ireland
sorry i omited that part, as glass may not be the safest to use outdoors, childeren,etc. i thought of using something like perspex but i am open to suggestion, in fact i would appreciate any helpfull suggestions about the whole project. someone may have done something similar in the past
Framewright
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Not your average framer
- Posts: 11005
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Hi,
A year of maybe two ago I was asked to do a exterior menu board for the local Indian restaurant. It was done in Oak painted with real yuacht varnish from yuacht chandlers, the front piece of glass was 6mm plate glass from their original frame and was sealed in with a clear bathroom sealer. There was a flat slip moulding behind this and then two pieces of glass sealed around the edges with "weather proof tape" from the local hardware shop. The slip moulding hid the tape and the two pieces of glass were spaced away from the sides of the frame just in case any water ever got in. The menu pages were already laminated (it was an actual menu), but I dry mounted them onto mountboard and heatsealed it all round. The heatseal film contains an acrylic adhesive which acts as a U.V. inhibiter (very useful).
The frame was joined with normal underpinning wedges, but there are some well hidden brass woodscrews just in case! The backing board was 6mm exterior ply sealed around the top and sides with sealer and when taped all round with a roof sealling tape with a pin hole at the bottom to let it breathe, and the restuarant owner (who is now a regular customer) was very pleased. It still looks great, but it took a lot longer to do than I ever expected - Don't under estimate the price, it's a lot of work to do!
I declined the request to fix it to the wall - if anything goes wrong, I'd rather not have the whole town watching!
Cheers,
Mark
A year of maybe two ago I was asked to do a exterior menu board for the local Indian restaurant. It was done in Oak painted with real yuacht varnish from yuacht chandlers, the front piece of glass was 6mm plate glass from their original frame and was sealed in with a clear bathroom sealer. There was a flat slip moulding behind this and then two pieces of glass sealed around the edges with "weather proof tape" from the local hardware shop. The slip moulding hid the tape and the two pieces of glass were spaced away from the sides of the frame just in case any water ever got in. The menu pages were already laminated (it was an actual menu), but I dry mounted them onto mountboard and heatsealed it all round. The heatseal film contains an acrylic adhesive which acts as a U.V. inhibiter (very useful).
The frame was joined with normal underpinning wedges, but there are some well hidden brass woodscrews just in case! The backing board was 6mm exterior ply sealed around the top and sides with sealer and when taped all round with a roof sealling tape with a pin hole at the bottom to let it breathe, and the restuarant owner (who is now a regular customer) was very pleased. It still looks great, but it took a lot longer to do than I ever expected - Don't under estimate the price, it's a lot of work to do!
I declined the request to fix it to the wall - if anything goes wrong, I'd rather not have the whole town watching!
Cheers,
Mark
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framewright
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Sun 02 Apr, 2006 5:41 pm
- Location: Ireland
weatherproofing
thank you for the information, there are some good ideas there which i will use. also i would never have thought of leaving drain hole for condense
Framewright
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Not your average framer
- Posts: 11005
- Joined: Sat 25 Mar, 2006 8:40 pm
- Location: Devon, U.K.
- Organisation: The Dartmoor Gallery
- Interests: Lost causes, saving and restoring old things, learning something every day
- Location: Glorious Devon
Hi,
The drain hole was not just for condesation, but also in case any water got in from outside. How do you know that it's waterproof? You don't, you just hope so! You can't easily prove it's waterproof, what if it develops a leak later? If everyone can see it and perhaps become aware that you did it, the drain hole gives that extra peace of mind. This is how my thinking goes on this one:
First, the sealed in menu between two sheets of glass is sitting on spacing pieces and therefore is hopefully clear of any water if any settles at the bottom of the frame.
Second, the slip between the front glass and the sealed in menu, prevents my waterproof tape, the spacers around the sealed in menu and any water at the bottom of the frame from being seen.
Third, the drain hole prevents any water from being able to rise above the drain hole.
Hopefully it will always look good and if any water ever gets in there I hope it will clear without anyone ever knowing. The oak moulding (a large flat one from Simons has that little bit wider than normal rebate) which allows for extra contact area for the silicone sealer between the frame and the glass. I therefore think that I have a many factors in my favour as I can and hope this is enough.
I was always worried about the fixing to the wall and the possiblity of the screws tightening onto an uneven wall causing one or more corners to open under strain. However, this does not appear to have been a problem, but it's still something to try and protect against, if you can.
Cheers,
Mark
The drain hole was not just for condesation, but also in case any water got in from outside. How do you know that it's waterproof? You don't, you just hope so! You can't easily prove it's waterproof, what if it develops a leak later? If everyone can see it and perhaps become aware that you did it, the drain hole gives that extra peace of mind. This is how my thinking goes on this one:
First, the sealed in menu between two sheets of glass is sitting on spacing pieces and therefore is hopefully clear of any water if any settles at the bottom of the frame.
Second, the slip between the front glass and the sealed in menu, prevents my waterproof tape, the spacers around the sealed in menu and any water at the bottom of the frame from being seen.
Third, the drain hole prevents any water from being able to rise above the drain hole.
Hopefully it will always look good and if any water ever gets in there I hope it will clear without anyone ever knowing. The oak moulding (a large flat one from Simons has that little bit wider than normal rebate) which allows for extra contact area for the silicone sealer between the frame and the glass. I therefore think that I have a many factors in my favour as I can and hope this is enough.
I was always worried about the fixing to the wall and the possiblity of the screws tightening onto an uneven wall causing one or more corners to open under strain. However, this does not appear to have been a problem, but it's still something to try and protect against, if you can.
Cheers,
Mark