order of under pinning
- mikeysaling
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order of under pinning
just had a thought from topbrands post about underpinners . i always underpin long/short (one side) then underpin long/short (tother side) then underpin the two L shapes together - is this what you guys do ? or do you just work your way round ie long - short - long - short ! just interested to know . is there anyadvantage doing it either way ?
when all is said and done - there is more said than done.
- Bagpuss
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Re: order of under pinning
That's exactly how I was told how to do it by Mark Griffiths who used to work for Cassese, I always keep the Longest length on the Left, short on the right. : )
cheers,
Adam/Bagpuss
cheers,
Adam/Bagpuss
My real name is Adam Laver aka "Adam The Picture Framer", just in case you were unsure ; )
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Re: order of under pinning
I sometimes do short - short or long - long. Depends if I've been drinking.
- Gesso&Bole
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Re: order of under pinning
I work my way round on small frames, and make 2 'L's for larger frames (Long in the left hand). I've been doing it that way for so long, I can't remember why
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
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Re: order of under pinning
Two 'L's with the long side always on the right and with good reason - my underpinner is sunk in to a corner of a large rectangular bench, so long on the right when pinning the 'L's means that the frame ends up running along the long side of the bench and not the short side, so, even with very large frames, nothing ends up unsupported or getting in the way by hanging over the end of the bench.
Re: order of under pinning
Well, that settles it, I'm not coming to help you join frames, John! I just can't change a 25 year habit!Roboframer wrote:Two 'L's with the long side always on the right and with good reason - my underpinner is sunk in to a corner of a large rectangular bench,
Re: order of under pinning
Most mouldings I do two Ls. Long to the right (just to be contrary). With multiple wedge positions I go all round with the outer wedges and then go round again working toward the inside.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
- MITREMAN
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Re: order of under pinning
I'am a long on the right man.
Unless doing small frames.
My cassese is set into a 4x4 bench with the corner cut off to take the trangle of the underpinner base plate, everything nice and flush so my frames are supported and I can slide the 2 L shapes with ease and with out lifting them.
Mitreman
Unless doing small frames.
My cassese is set into a 4x4 bench with the corner cut off to take the trangle of the underpinner base plate, everything nice and flush so my frames are supported and I can slide the 2 L shapes with ease and with out lifting them.
Mitreman
MITREMAN
Jan Stanlick GCF Picture Framing Consultant & Teacher
Working in association with Framers Equipment Ltd, Northampton http://www.framersequipment.co.uk
Jan Stanlick GCF Picture Framing Consultant & Teacher
Working in association with Framers Equipment Ltd, Northampton http://www.framersequipment.co.uk
- ShaggyDog
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Re: order of under pinning
I also go long on the right - after I was taught I couldn't remember what I had been told was the standard, so I set my own.
- mikeysaling
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Re: order of under pinning
i also go on the right - as i'm banned for 3 days on the grumble i won't qualify that statement.
when all is said and done - there is more said than done.
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Re: order of under pinning
With wood mouldings I do L’s the same as you lot, but with Minerva / polymer I’ve got my own method / workflow.
Firstly I’ve a piece of plate glass on which I work, the superglue doesn’t stick so well on it and it’s easy to clean off, use an old mount-cutter blade.
I start at any corner and work my way around, when I get to last corner I do not glue it at this stage, but set aside frame for the glue to cure.
After cutting glass and backing I come back to the frame, I now under-pin the three glued corners, this process has made the frame strong enough for the last and final joint to be glued.
Firstly I tape down one of the arms down on to the glass plate with a bit of masking tape, I also place a piece of tape on the top of the moulding to save accidental spots of glue spoiling the job.
It’s now easy and safe to lift the other arm up and apply glue, lower said arm to glass leaving small gap between mitre, remove protective tape from top of moulding, now push firmly together until cured, remove securing tape and underpin last corner.
It’s just my way; guess you all have your own methods with polymer.
Firstly I’ve a piece of plate glass on which I work, the superglue doesn’t stick so well on it and it’s easy to clean off, use an old mount-cutter blade.
I start at any corner and work my way around, when I get to last corner I do not glue it at this stage, but set aside frame for the glue to cure.
After cutting glass and backing I come back to the frame, I now under-pin the three glued corners, this process has made the frame strong enough for the last and final joint to be glued.
Firstly I tape down one of the arms down on to the glass plate with a bit of masking tape, I also place a piece of tape on the top of the moulding to save accidental spots of glue spoiling the job.
It’s now easy and safe to lift the other arm up and apply glue, lower said arm to glass leaving small gap between mitre, remove protective tape from top of moulding, now push firmly together until cured, remove securing tape and underpin last corner.
It’s just my way; guess you all have your own methods with polymer.
Re: order of under pinning
Jim,
Your workflow for joining plastic sounds good!
I make two L's, then join the third corner, but then wait a few minutes before joining joint four. Leave it about 10-15 mins before vee nailing all the joints.
When joining plastic mouldings, I use a piece of silicone release paper from sticky foamboard under the corner so the superglue won't stick to the bench. Never tried glass!
You people who do long on the right should be blown up. It's wrong, wrong, wrong! Now get your act's together and start doing it right. Never mind excuses like 'the wall is in the way'. Make a hole in it so you can become 'normal' framers!
Sorry, I had a sudden urge to type that. It's not serious! Just some fun!
Your workflow for joining plastic sounds good!
I make two L's, then join the third corner, but then wait a few minutes before joining joint four. Leave it about 10-15 mins before vee nailing all the joints.
When joining plastic mouldings, I use a piece of silicone release paper from sticky foamboard under the corner so the superglue won't stick to the bench. Never tried glass!
You people who do long on the right should be blown up. It's wrong, wrong, wrong! Now get your act's together and start doing it right. Never mind excuses like 'the wall is in the way'. Make a hole in it so you can become 'normal' framers!
Sorry, I had a sudden urge to type that. It's not serious! Just some fun!
- Gesso&Bole
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Re: order of under pinning
Long in the Left, Rong in the Right
Jeremy (Jim) Anderson
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- John
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Re: order of under pinning
Maybe it's an Antipodean thing, like the way the water supposedly drains from the sink differently in the southern hemisphere.
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Re: order of under pinning
I was taught to always have the long on the left but, being of a rebellious nature, I now have long on the right.
Makes me feel more like an individual - though I see I'm not alone.
Makes me feel more like an individual - though I see I'm not alone.
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Re: order of under pinning
Started using the plate glass because my bench has a bit of a twist in it, the glass is flat and true doesn't flex.Nigel Nobody wrote: I use a piece of silicone release paper from sticky foamboard under the corner so the superglue won't stick to the bench. Never tried glass!
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The glue probably sticks more to glass than release paper, but once the glue has taken hold in the mitre a steady twist sideways of the L will free off any adhesion.
Re: order of under pinning
I like the way you think, Jim......you are a real and truly normal framer...not like these other strange people who don't know what the heck they are doing!Gesso&Bole wrote:Long in the Left, Rong in the Right
John,
You are right, the water goes down the plughole the opposite way. You'll have to come down and check it out. It will be worth the airfare just to see it!
Re: order of under pinning
If you live right on the equator does the water stay in the sink when you take the plug out?
Re: order of under pinning
Or does it reverse itself out of the hole and come right back at you?