Hi,
I thought I would share this technique for deep wrapped bevel mounts. Just after Christmas, Simons were doing some clearance offers, one of which was a plain ayous flat slip with a bevel on one edge. The Simons order code for this is NOC/046 and it's cross section is 35mm x 8mm and it's 8p per foot.
They had a massive quantity of this and I've been back for more every so often, so I assume there's probably still some in stock. It's actual width is not always as consistent as it should be, so sometimes you have to chop a few inches off the end.
I cut the lengths I need to be oversize, then tape them with the "Mat decoration tapes for deep bevels" in the Lion catalogue. You have to take a lot of care fixing the tape, (because it's only just wide enough to have about 6mm left either side of the bevel). I then chop them to size on the morso, join the on the underpinner and fix them behind the aperture of a normal mount.
I also make-up an outer support with same moulding to fix under the outside edge of the mountboard and another mount under it all to finish and separate the artwork from the wood slip. It looks the business and is very profitable too. The tape also sticks to the bevel better than it usually does to the bevel on a length of foam core.
Cheers,
Mark
Seriously deep wrapped bevel mounts
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Not your average framer
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Keith Hewitt
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Deep bevel tapes
You maybe interested to hear that Slater Harrison will be introducing a deep bevel tape in a few weeks, which is 48mm wide. From what you wrote this might be easier to apply.
If you would like a roll f.o.c. to try just send me an e-mail k.hewitt@slater-harrison.co.uk There are 5 colours white, ivory, black, old gold and a textured off white. Please do give us some feedback on your experience of using it. Any suggestions for other colours also welcome.
This offer of a free roll applies to anyone reading this post.
Keith Hewitt
Colourmount Board
If you would like a roll f.o.c. to try just send me an e-mail k.hewitt@slater-harrison.co.uk There are 5 colours white, ivory, black, old gold and a textured off white. Please do give us some feedback on your experience of using it. Any suggestions for other colours also welcome.
This offer of a free roll applies to anyone reading this post.
Keith Hewitt
Colourmount Board
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Merlin
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Hi Keith
True to your word. Last Friday the free tapes arrived.
Many thanks and yes I can see already that the 48mm width could be really useful.
Initial impressions. The tapes look good quality, nice and thick as well. Have tried some onto barefaced bevel moulding, so will see if they are still stuck down tomorrow and will also experiment with acrylic spray to see how they handle that.
I do like the 'Old Gold' that matches one of our moulding perfectly.
Thanks once again.
True to your word. Last Friday the free tapes arrived.
Many thanks and yes I can see already that the 48mm width could be really useful.
Initial impressions. The tapes look good quality, nice and thick as well. Have tried some onto barefaced bevel moulding, so will see if they are still stuck down tomorrow and will also experiment with acrylic spray to see how they handle that.
I do like the 'Old Gold' that matches one of our moulding perfectly.
Thanks once again.
John GCF
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Roboframer
I use Bainbridge 'Artcare' bevelled accents.
Not keen on wrapping wood (fillets/slips) to go next to artwork, are any of these papers archival?
Not that that would prevent contamination from the wood, but if archival then they could be used for wrapping deep MOUNT bevels.
If I need to do that - I peel off the surface paper of mountboard, long offcuts are great for it. Then I get an ARTCARE wrapped bevel, because artcare is all I use (bar some of Arqadia's suedettes - which also 'peel' very well)
I prefer fabric for wrapping - your choice of colour and design is limited only by your imagination.
Not keen on wrapping wood (fillets/slips) to go next to artwork, are any of these papers archival?
Not that that would prevent contamination from the wood, but if archival then they could be used for wrapping deep MOUNT bevels.
If I need to do that - I peel off the surface paper of mountboard, long offcuts are great for it. Then I get an ARTCARE wrapped bevel, because artcare is all I use (bar some of Arqadia's suedettes - which also 'peel' very well)
I prefer fabric for wrapping - your choice of colour and design is limited only by your imagination.
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Not your average framer
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Hi John,
The wood is easily sealed with acrylic sanding sealer which is quite thick when applied and covers well, (two coats just to be sure) and a mount underneath in addition to the sealer is even better!
I too have received my sample from keith and have tried it out too! The extra width is very helpful - easy to keep it straight when applying it. It also had me thinking about wrapping deeper slips for object framing. Where I originally worked and was trained, they used a lot of a very nice Enrique Lopez ivory slip. Unfortunately this cannot be got except if you buy direct in quantity - This could be a nice solution, if the slip is behind the glass.
I'm still looking for something to wrap bevelled foamcore which sticks really well to the cut bevel and does not try and lift over time as the paper still resists being bent around the cut edges. I wonder how Bainbridge do it on their bevel accents - I also use them and they always look fantastic even years later! A few extra colours from Bainbridge might be nice!
Cheers,
Mark
The wood is easily sealed with acrylic sanding sealer which is quite thick when applied and covers well, (two coats just to be sure) and a mount underneath in addition to the sealer is even better!
I too have received my sample from keith and have tried it out too! The extra width is very helpful - easy to keep it straight when applying it. It also had me thinking about wrapping deeper slips for object framing. Where I originally worked and was trained, they used a lot of a very nice Enrique Lopez ivory slip. Unfortunately this cannot be got except if you buy direct in quantity - This could be a nice solution, if the slip is behind the glass.
I'm still looking for something to wrap bevelled foamcore which sticks really well to the cut bevel and does not try and lift over time as the paper still resists being bent around the cut edges. I wonder how Bainbridge do it on their bevel accents - I also use them and they always look fantastic even years later! A few extra colours from Bainbridge might be nice!
Cheers,
Mark
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Roboframer
We have about 2500 reels of ribbon - some are too narrow for wrapping admittedly, but over half are not!
Choose from this little lot!
For wrapped foamboard Mark, try this - bevel a strip of artcare restore, put a strip of paper/fabric/ribbon/whatever along it - leaving enough to wrap around. Stick it in your press, then lay a strip of ATG tape (acid free variety of course!) along the other side and stretch your fabric/paper/whatever onto it - use a bone folder if necc.
I've never tried it - just thought of it!
I will do an autopsy on a strip of bevelled accent, see if it is stuck on the bevel or just back and front.
If this method works, then, by peeling off artcare surface papers you could make your own range of bevelled accents!
Choose from this little lot!
For wrapped foamboard Mark, try this - bevel a strip of artcare restore, put a strip of paper/fabric/ribbon/whatever along it - leaving enough to wrap around. Stick it in your press, then lay a strip of ATG tape (acid free variety of course!) along the other side and stretch your fabric/paper/whatever onto it - use a bone folder if necc.
I've never tried it - just thought of it!
I will do an autopsy on a strip of bevelled accent, see if it is stuck on the bevel or just back and front.
If this method works, then, by peeling off artcare surface papers you could make your own range of bevelled accents!
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osgood
Bevelled Accents
John,
I have tried making my own a few times and it is quite difficult to get anything to stick to the bevel of foamboard, even Artcare foamboard. I guess that's due to the porous nature of the foam. When I cut a bevel on foamboard, the surface of the foam always seem to be a tiny bit recessed below the level of the paper front and back. Maybe an optical delusion, I don't know.
I don't think it is all that necessary for it to be stuck to the bevel anyway.
I have never seen so many ribbons......struth gift wrapping must be big in your area!!!
The bevelled accents I have used were not stuck to the bevel, just front and back. They always look a little puffy on the bevel anyway.I will do an autopsy on a strip of bevelled accent, see if it is stuck on the bevel or just back and front.
I have tried making my own a few times and it is quite difficult to get anything to stick to the bevel of foamboard, even Artcare foamboard. I guess that's due to the porous nature of the foam. When I cut a bevel on foamboard, the surface of the foam always seem to be a tiny bit recessed below the level of the paper front and back. Maybe an optical delusion, I don't know.
I don't think it is all that necessary for it to be stuck to the bevel anyway.
I have never seen so many ribbons......struth gift wrapping must be big in your area!!!
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Roboframer
Ormond, yes the finish on bevelled accents can be inconsistent, sometimes puffy as you say, but sometimes also concave and sometimes just right - always seems to look good though.
God knows what people use these ribbons for but they travel miles for them - gift wrapping - dress-making - card-making - wedding cars, cakes, bonnets and hats. It is what we sell most of.
The other day a lady plonked a basket on the counter with 20 reels in and asked for 11 metres of each. It cost her £88 - so that averaged at 40p per metre.
God knows what people use these ribbons for but they travel miles for them - gift wrapping - dress-making - card-making - wedding cars, cakes, bonnets and hats. It is what we sell most of.
The other day a lady plonked a basket on the counter with 20 reels in and asked for 11 metres of each. It cost her £88 - so that averaged at 40p per metre.
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Not your average framer
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Goodness me, John, That's an inspired idea!
I don't know all that much about ribbons, but I've seen some that are really stunning in the way they catch the light. Can you tell us what are ribbons normally made of? Can it be assumed that they would be suitable for conservation use? Are the colours likely to fade or bleed? Are there such things as textured ribbons, etc. Would sticking them with PVA be a bad thing to do? I don't like using ATG tape where if it fails the customer will see something fall off or lift.
As I live in rural Devon and don't think there is much chance of finding a selection like yours around these parts. If this idea is a goer, would you consider supplying those like myself by post?
By the way, the reason why I do extra deep bevels with wood are:
1. 5mm foamcore is about the limit with a Keencut Ultimat, unless you use a Stanley knife blade which due to it's extra thickness, seems to not give such clean edges in foamcore.
2. It's very easy to get fantastic mitred corners.
3. If you are hand finishing the frame, you can do the bevel to match.
Your idea has got my brain working overtime now!
Cheers,
Mark
I don't know all that much about ribbons, but I've seen some that are really stunning in the way they catch the light. Can you tell us what are ribbons normally made of? Can it be assumed that they would be suitable for conservation use? Are the colours likely to fade or bleed? Are there such things as textured ribbons, etc. Would sticking them with PVA be a bad thing to do? I don't like using ATG tape where if it fails the customer will see something fall off or lift.
As I live in rural Devon and don't think there is much chance of finding a selection like yours around these parts. If this idea is a goer, would you consider supplying those like myself by post?
By the way, the reason why I do extra deep bevels with wood are:
1. 5mm foamcore is about the limit with a Keencut Ultimat, unless you use a Stanley knife blade which due to it's extra thickness, seems to not give such clean edges in foamcore.
2. It's very easy to get fantastic mitred corners.
3. If you are hand finishing the frame, you can do the bevel to match.
Your idea has got my brain working overtime now!
Cheers,
Mark
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Not your average framer
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Hi Ormond,
I have read somewhere about sealing the bevel on foamcore with PVA, I've never tried it, but I'd be very suprised if it stuck any better that self adhesives.
Incidentally, I've noticed when cutting bevels on foamcore one side is always concave and the other is convex. That is except for a bit of a fluke with an old Keencut Dart I have which slightly bends the blade along a line from the corner you are cutting with to the opposite top corner, but even then this only works with 9 thou thick blades and the effect is soon lost as the blade starts to lose it's edge.
I have also noticed what you said about the bevel accents, but they always seem to look that much more stunning anyway. I have not tried peeling the paper off from mountboard through as I assumed it would not be that easy to remove it cleanly without soaking it off. Perhaps it's time I found out!
Cheers,
Mark
I have read somewhere about sealing the bevel on foamcore with PVA, I've never tried it, but I'd be very suprised if it stuck any better that self adhesives.
Incidentally, I've noticed when cutting bevels on foamcore one side is always concave and the other is convex. That is except for a bit of a fluke with an old Keencut Dart I have which slightly bends the blade along a line from the corner you are cutting with to the opposite top corner, but even then this only works with 9 thou thick blades and the effect is soon lost as the blade starts to lose it's edge.
I have also noticed what you said about the bevel accents, but they always seem to look that much more stunning anyway. I have not tried peeling the paper off from mountboard through as I assumed it would not be that easy to remove it cleanly without soaking it off. Perhaps it's time I found out!
Cheers,
Mark
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Roboframer
I'm no expert on wrapping - fabric or paper, that's why I am attending a Grumblers' 'convention' in The States in August - I have all this ribbon, fabric too (mainly needlework fabric - linen etc) and HAVE used it to wrap mounts and bevels, but it's been trial and error, when I get back from the US, where wrapping is BIG - I will share!
I have emailed the craft department (Pat) in the living room on her laptop - here is her reply .... (honest)
"Light of my life..........
There are what I call 2 types of ribbon:
craft ribbon and
proper ribbon
craft ribbon only advisable for craft work, colours will run etc etc
proper ribbon is good, usually made from polyester so should be able to class as archival in the sense it won't damage anything.
usually colourfast to 60 degrees but I would always avoid reds (unless previously washed and tested) as that is the colour most likely to bleed if it is going to happen.
Ribbons classed as 'double or single satin' are good, as are 'sheers' or 'organzas'.
Would need to double check anything with gold/silver colours as invariably these contain a metal or metallic thread which will Not be archival and can rust or break up.
A lot of good quality fancy wider ribbon come with wire edge. That is not a problem as you can just pull out the wire and then you will have standard polyester ribbon. A lot of people dont realise this wire comes out very easily and avoid this ribbon which is not necessary.
PVA glue should be ok, but worth testing on scraps first to get the right formula so that it does not bleed into the ribbon which can then leave a stain on the outside.
Generally best to avoid velvets as although made of cotton, the colours are generally vibrant and possibly will bleed. Again, a lot is washable these days so if velvet was preferred , just test a sample by washing first.
cant think of the word to avoid in ribbons, is something like polymide or similar, ill see if i can track it, if not can check rolls at work tomorrow.
luv
your everloving wife.......now can i get back to my bleeding genealogy??
PS The word is acetate!!!
I knew it was similar to polymide!!"
Part of the reason people travel for this stuff, bar the selection, is the price - Pat is a canny buyer! A lot of the stuff we retail at what most would consider a good wholesale price. We give 15% off full reels too - grateful for the time saved in measuring 23 out of 25m!!!
Sure I would supply you, or anyone else, by post, but best ring Pat (01903 782202) and speak about your requirements.
I find that Lineco ph neitral paste from Lion is good for light fabrics. If you want to go the whole hog then I suppose Nori paste would be too. There is also your press to use when it is JUST tacky as well I suppose.
As I say, I'll know more once I have spoken to the Baer!
Anyone else fancy a trip?
http://www.thegrumble.com/ubb/ultimateb ... 1;t=010992
I have emailed the craft department (Pat) in the living room on her laptop - here is her reply .... (honest)
"Light of my life..........
There are what I call 2 types of ribbon:
craft ribbon and
proper ribbon
craft ribbon only advisable for craft work, colours will run etc etc
proper ribbon is good, usually made from polyester so should be able to class as archival in the sense it won't damage anything.
usually colourfast to 60 degrees but I would always avoid reds (unless previously washed and tested) as that is the colour most likely to bleed if it is going to happen.
Ribbons classed as 'double or single satin' are good, as are 'sheers' or 'organzas'.
Would need to double check anything with gold/silver colours as invariably these contain a metal or metallic thread which will Not be archival and can rust or break up.
A lot of good quality fancy wider ribbon come with wire edge. That is not a problem as you can just pull out the wire and then you will have standard polyester ribbon. A lot of people dont realise this wire comes out very easily and avoid this ribbon which is not necessary.
PVA glue should be ok, but worth testing on scraps first to get the right formula so that it does not bleed into the ribbon which can then leave a stain on the outside.
Generally best to avoid velvets as although made of cotton, the colours are generally vibrant and possibly will bleed. Again, a lot is washable these days so if velvet was preferred , just test a sample by washing first.
cant think of the word to avoid in ribbons, is something like polymide or similar, ill see if i can track it, if not can check rolls at work tomorrow.
luv
your everloving wife.......now can i get back to my bleeding genealogy??
PS The word is acetate!!!
I knew it was similar to polymide!!"
Part of the reason people travel for this stuff, bar the selection, is the price - Pat is a canny buyer! A lot of the stuff we retail at what most would consider a good wholesale price. We give 15% off full reels too - grateful for the time saved in measuring 23 out of 25m!!!
Sure I would supply you, or anyone else, by post, but best ring Pat (01903 782202) and speak about your requirements.
I find that Lineco ph neitral paste from Lion is good for light fabrics. If you want to go the whole hog then I suppose Nori paste would be too. There is also your press to use when it is JUST tacky as well I suppose.
As I say, I'll know more once I have spoken to the Baer!
Anyone else fancy a trip?
http://www.thegrumble.com/ubb/ultimateb ... 1;t=010992
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Not your average framer
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John,
I don't know if you've heard of Falconer Fine Papers in London, but I've got some of their sample packs in my workshop and they've got some very stricking coloured papers with a deep corrogated paper effect. I think they probably are acid and lignen free and maybe could be painted to good effect too!
I don't know what happens when you cut or fold them across the corrogated effect, but I've often wondered if they would work for wrapping deep bevels. The trouble of course is that with anything patterned, it only looks great if everything is spot-on, otherwise the pattern highlights any mis-alignments or even the slightest of errors.
Cheers,
Mark
I don't know if you've heard of Falconer Fine Papers in London, but I've got some of their sample packs in my workshop and they've got some very stricking coloured papers with a deep corrogated paper effect. I think they probably are acid and lignen free and maybe could be painted to good effect too!
I don't know what happens when you cut or fold them across the corrogated effect, but I've often wondered if they would work for wrapping deep bevels. The trouble of course is that with anything patterned, it only looks great if everything is spot-on, otherwise the pattern highlights any mis-alignments or even the slightest of errors.
Cheers,
Mark
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Roboframer
I certainly have heard of them Mark - Faulkner Fine Papers - I'm a calligrapher - albeit areluctant one! I have a shedful of their swatches - if you find a non handmade one you like you can maybe buy it by the roll at a great price.
They also do a range of coloured extra extra fine sandpapers for pastels - they do everything! My 2 day-a-week framer/rest of the time a dentist, is also a fantatic artist - she goes there quite often - I dare not - I'd buy a van load just 'cause it's nice!
They also do a range of coloured extra extra fine sandpapers for pastels - they do everything! My 2 day-a-week framer/rest of the time a dentist, is also a fantatic artist - she goes there quite often - I dare not - I'd buy a van load just 'cause it's nice!
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Not your average framer
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Roboframer
Mark,Not your average framer wrote:I have not tried peeling the paper off from mountboard though as I assumed it would not be that easy to remove it cleanly without soaking it off. Perhaps it's time I found out!
You can peel the surface paper off artcare (alphamat) easily, maybe not JUST that surface paper, but definitely that and the next layer down , it comes off evenly too. I have not tried peeling off their suedettes, but I have tried with arqadia's and you can get JUST the suedette off - in fact I have a photo somewhere. what you are left with is VERY fragile - but - it is taken from that 2" x 32" offcut that was heading for the skip!
Crescent's suedettes do not want to know!
Here we go suedette peeled off and used to wrap a box for a plate.
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Keith Hewitt
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48mm wide tapes
I spent most of yesterday with the framing Guru in Sheffield aka Pete. Bingham. He did some surprising things with these 48mm tapes. Mostly wrapping raw wood moulding, then using Everest paints to colour, stipple, then gold top coat and finally rub it with very fine steel wool. Stunning results. Pete also suggested some other colours and widths which he would like to see addded.
I have been surprised at the number of framers who have asked for free rolls to try. Most have never posted here, but are obviously avid readers, keen and inquisitive framers. I just wish we could get more of you to write something and make this Forum even better.
To those who asked why is the tape 48mm - I beleive the info above and that by Mark Lacey aka "Not your average framer" and John Turner aka "Roboframer" should explain that it's not just for wrapping bevelled mount board.
As manufacturers ( and NOT framers ourselves) it is not easy to develop new products. We are grateful to framers who give us any feedback after trying these tapes, and carefully listen to any suggestions you make.
Thank you to those of you who have already given us some feedback.
Keith Hewitt
Slater Harrison
I have been surprised at the number of framers who have asked for free rolls to try. Most have never posted here, but are obviously avid readers, keen and inquisitive framers. I just wish we could get more of you to write something and make this Forum even better.
To those who asked why is the tape 48mm - I beleive the info above and that by Mark Lacey aka "Not your average framer" and John Turner aka "Roboframer" should explain that it's not just for wrapping bevelled mount board.
As manufacturers ( and NOT framers ourselves) it is not easy to develop new products. We are grateful to framers who give us any feedback after trying these tapes, and carefully listen to any suggestions you make.
Thank you to those of you who have already given us some feedback.
Keith Hewitt
Slater Harrison
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Roboframer
Re: 48mm wide tapes
Maybe you could persuade the man himself to join in Keith, did you mention the forum to him? Does he read it?Keith Hewitt wrote:I spent most of yesterday with the framing Guru in Sheffield aka Pete. Bingham. ..............................................................
I just wish we could get more of you to write something and make this Forum even better.
Keith Hewitt
Slater Harrison
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markw
Pete Bingham came along to a Cotswold Branch FATG meeting some time ago to demonstrate his decorating techniques - a very clever witty man. Keith, its very positive to see you posting and I know from past postes that you always bring a new perspective to some of our discussions - I am glad your getting such good feedback. From the number of visitors to the forum we do seem to be under represented by those who actually make comments. For those that read this and dont respond your comments are always welcomed - even if its just a couple of words - dont be shy!
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absolute framing
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Hi Keith and other forum members.
I have been experimenting with your new tape and find it very handy.
At the moment i am using it on slips for som box frames. I normally stick mount board to s/a 3mm foam for some of my slips. With your new tape i just stick it too 5mm foam. This is easy, i just tape it to the edge of a large sheet, trim on my wall-cutter and then cut at 35mm. So far so good.
This saves me using mount board and the more expensive s/a foam.
Having said this, it does depend on the retail cost of the tape! I dont presume i'll be getting free samples for life
Important though that the mount and tape solours match. A reference number with the tape would be handy, too match it up with the matching colourmount mount-board
A nice product to have in my armoury - will post photo of strips
Regards
Stephen
I have been experimenting with your new tape and find it very handy.
At the moment i am using it on slips for som box frames. I normally stick mount board to s/a 3mm foam for some of my slips. With your new tape i just stick it too 5mm foam. This is easy, i just tape it to the edge of a large sheet, trim on my wall-cutter and then cut at 35mm. So far so good.
This saves me using mount board and the more expensive s/a foam.
Having said this, it does depend on the retail cost of the tape! I dont presume i'll be getting free samples for life
Important though that the mount and tape solours match. A reference number with the tape would be handy, too match it up with the matching colourmount mount-board
A nice product to have in my armoury - will post photo of strips
Regards
Stephen