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I've committed to putting together a front loading A3 size frame for someone and duly started getting the photo's and mounts sorted when I received a phone call from Lion saying the moulding I require is now deleted and they have no stock - despite the moulding claiming to be in stock and 'purchasable' on their website! (Moulding L1779, matt black)
So they've despatched the order minus this particular moulding. I also ordered the same moulding but as plain/bare ash for some of my own work and as a bit of a promotional thing, but now I'm stuck thinking I'm going to end up at B&Q looking for some paint - something I'm a little more than loathed to do. Has anyone been in this situation before? Without wishing to state the obvious, its a bit of a bugger!
The moulding is quite small 20x15mm - the size being very important as the metal clips only fit this size. So, does anyone know of any moulding that could be used? I've had a look at mainline & simons but can't find anything the same that would work. I know I could turn a traditional moulding on its side bit I'm worried about the side not providing enough height for glass, mouldboard and backboard etc...
If it's only one frame then a couple of coats of artist's acrylic Mars Black will give you a nice finish. If you use the ash it will be grainy though..... And I'm not sure just how matt you want it. It really needs waxing to seal the finish and this will give a satin(ish) finish. You can get spray cans of matt black, but the finish is very prone to marking at the least touch and if you try to polish out scuff, you get a shiny patch.
Have a look at Simon's 'INCA' range, there's a small black with a very wide lip, but it's got a bevel and it's a brushed finish. Failing that or any other suitable moulding then a few coats of acrylic on your ash moulding finished with black patinating wax shouldn't look too bad.
I have painted a frame using Plaka paint - dries to a very flat finish but is very touch sensitive. Finished it off with 3 coats of clear varnish.
I have also used Lions frame finishing paint and put a varnish coat on to finish it also with satisfactory results.
B&Q do a household type paint spray in matt black(Rust -oleum). It needs to be shaken really thoroughly for a few minutes to make sure the matt element is well mixed. I had to make extensions for some deep box frames in matt black - the face moulding matt black was matched well using this paint. It also seemed to be a fairly tough finish when allowed to dry thoroughly.
When I need a matt black paint I use "bumper bar" paint, which dries really fast and is very durable. Automotive paint shops sell it. Maybe a similar product might be available up there too?
Ashworth & Thompson have 2 profiles that might work for you immediatley or in the future. We have one that is called 20250.Ash. It's s black on wood all the way through it / round it. We have it in stock too. It measures 25mm x 20mm.
The other is a little larger; 010.012. It measures 36mm x 34mm. It has a smooth matt black finish with a 25mm deep reabte. Black all the way round it as well. I am happy to send you & anyone else samples of these. I am both profiles ought to be nice ones to work with.
Please let me know if I can help further.
Phil.
There's nothing I can do if it don't get through, blame it on the Pony Express !
There's nothing I can say if it's gone a stray, blame it on the Pony Express !
One neat thing I have found about car paints is that they stick very well to certain mouldings with minimal preparation. All that you need do is to ensure there are no greasy spots. I used to regularly spray the good old 1/2" black cushion. The metallic colours look very classy and are very resistant to marking. Some of the shades available are very soft and subtle.
Making the frame first and then spraying allows you to smooth off the corners (and fill any gaps).
It is important to test any paint. Some mouldings defy all efforts to overpaint them and some paints don't bond well to certain surfaces. Spray a bit first. let it dry and then try and scratch the paint off with your fingernails. If it comes off it hasn't formed a stable bond. Car paints have quite an aggressive solvent and I think this tends to 'weld' the paint to the surface of the plasticy type compo'd finishes. Waterbased paints tend to just sit on the surface and though they appear to have gone on nicely, they can start to flake over time.
If you plan on doing a lot of spraying, aerosol cans are going to work out expensive. Buying the paint by the can is much cheaper and medium duty spraygun would be a good buy. Less waste this way and you can control the pressure.
I'm sure I've no need to mention that spraying is messy and overspray will settle everywhere. A dedicated spray area is the ideal thing and a good breathing mask is essential.
I've decided to down tools (as far as the pot of paint and a brush anyway), and have taken a slightly different approach. Rose & Hollis do a frame that's 19/20mm (not exact but close enough) and 13/14mm (again, not exact but close enough). Which I think is going to be the closest I'm going to find to what I need.
My thoughts have changed to altering the clips, rather than mucking about painting a frame. There's only a difference of about 1-2mm on either side so a little adapting of the clips should work out easier - I'm hoping anyway. They're quite a tight fit on the ash frame I've got so hopefully there'll be little to do.
I'm going to draft in a friend who does metal work to have a go. It shouldn't take him long.
- something I'm a little more than loathed to do. Has anyone been in this situation before? Without wishing to state the obvious, its a bit of a bugger!
Morning.