The Framers Forum

Hi

I am relatively new to framing (4 years) so have struggled with a secondhand Morso and other equipment in getting things working correctly. One of the problems with a lot of the machinery is the lack of precision (not accuracy) with which one can set guides etc. I solved this on my Keencut Gold by adding a more precise ruler to the overcut guides - this means I can set (reliably) the overcut for, say, 1400 micron board or 2000 micron board without doing a test cut.

The last problem to overcome was the left fence on the Morso. I was terrified of doing any adjustments because I knew that slackening the bolt could easily move the fence a whisker and I would have no idea whatsoever of where it was originally. I can see that the previous owner of my machine was also concerned as he has gouged a deep line in the baseplate to mark where he thinks it ought to be.

Two small pieces (cut from stainless steel, with scissors off the slider from a floppy disc), stuck on with super glue or araldite, solves the problem easily.

The solution is not to be accurate but to be repeatable and precise. I can now with confidence move the fence without any fear of being able to put it back where I want it to be.

I sincerely hope that this helps others with this problem. Giving a tiny bit back for the help I have received on this Forum.
C

The left fence adjustment is a very fine tweak. I find the best way to set it is to use a stick of moulding. First make sure to L and R are in line by putting the stick to the end of the R hand fence and holding it tight. Slacken the L fence and hold the moulding tight to that fence while keeping the R hand tight as well. You know the two fences are in line now. Move the stick left until it is on the L fence only.
Then, look where the far end of the moulding stick is and move the L fence (keeping the moulding tight up to it) so that the far end the moulding moves and inch or so. You shouldn't have to displace much more than this. This way you can set the fence within a gnat's whisker more accurately as the angle is magnified.

Sometimes you have to do a bit of tweaking to suit different profiles and more often, different woods.

Well, that is probably a bit more accurate, but how about replacing the length of moulding with a 1metre (or longer) steel rule - that won't bend as much as a piece of moulding, so would be more repeatable.

Works a treat - I now have no worries about adjusting ad infinitum now.

Pete at Framers Equipment has added a few tips over the phone and helped me sort out a gap at the bottom of the frame joints - the block in my underpinner was a tad low, thought it was set up correctly - obviously not. Bit like my Keencut Gold. In the manual it says you should never normally have to adjust calibration - am I in the minority here? It was way out at new and I check it regularly. Needs a redesign IMHO, having the knife block constantly tapping at the very thing you rely in for squareness seems to be asking for trouble. Still thinking about a way around that one.

Talking of Framers Equipment.co.uk and how helpful they are, I have been having my pictures framed since 1978 (I now frame my own) but I had never heard of them as a supplier, turns out they have been going longer than Lion !!

Well back to the mountcutter - show season starts next week
Cheers
C