Stained walnut frame

[framemaker]

stage 1.
Walnut moulding (from Piaf 2), sanded to get rid of the machine marks, one coat of water based stain, then about 12 coats of shellac sanding sealer with every other coat being rubbed smooth with 0000 wire wool.

stage 2.
The frame was cut to size and the sight edge was masked off with magic tape and then oil gilded using a 1 hour size and 23.5ct gold leaf, which was distressed with wire wool.

stage 3.
The frame was then given a coat of Keil's wax, it was then time to do the distressing, it had a good going over with all sorts of tools to replicate knicks and knocks over the years, a Dremel was used to add half a dozen worm holes. This distressing and re waxing was repeated a few times and the result is a repro antique polished wood frame with a lovely deep French polished look.

[Framerpicture]

Thats a beautiful finish Richard -

I realise you do this sort of thing all the time but how long would you expect a frame like this to take to finish?:

[YPF]

Richard,

That finish looks great!

[prospero]

Beautiful job Richard.

I used to do a lot of that when Ramin was more commonly used on mouldings. Obeche just doesn't seem to polish up the same.

[framemaker]

I really like this type of finish, glad others do too, but I imagine some people would look at it and think it is time to re frame it in a nice, new, perfect frame!

Walnut really does polish up very well, even with just a coat of sanding sealer and wax. This is the first time I have done a finish quite like this, but the actual process of brushing on the shellac coats takes just a few minutes, and maybe 5 to 10 mins each time you rub the coats back. It's just that each stage is spread over days and days, so it appears to take a long time, but the actual labour time is relatively low. That said, it is a small frame, but I still allowed 3 and a half hours finishing time on the frame, with the cost materials, glass, mount etc. on top.

[muffinski]

I realise this is an old post, however, I have only just come across it. First of all,wow! Starting off with a plain wood moulding and taking it to this is something else. I did not know this was possible, it looks amazing. How does one learn to do this? Are there books available on moulding decoration? If so please point me in the right direction.

[Not your average framer]

It's not just starting off with a plain wood moulding, but a quality hardwood moulding, as opposed to other lesser quality hardwoods. It would be nice if bare wood walnut mouldings were available off the shelf, but most framers have to place an order for a quantity and get the mouldings machined to order.

My main quality hardwood of choice is oak and it is very popular with the customers, but the figuring in walnut is just so classy and is much nicer than oak. I would guess that bare wood walnut mouldings like that don't come cheap!

Such a nice example from a much respected framer and gilder.

[IFGL]

very nice work, I have seen skills like this used by the powers of evil to deceive people into purchasing items that are not old or antique but are sold as so.

[Geoff]

I can see what you are trying to achieve having sanded and finished countless frames for the Dutch fine art market. No doubt your customers will like what they see but the preparation and finish seems as if it was more trial and error from your description. Removing "chatter marks" from timber, especially hardwoods can be at times, quite difficult. On some timbers you can think they have bees sanded out until you apply a liquid when you can see, through the compression of the timber, they can still be seen and have to be addressed again once dry. I don't know why you have used around twelve coats of sanding sealer and used that predominantly as the polish for the finish? Usually one or perhaps two coats of sanding sealer are sufficient depending on the timber used. After being happy with the result of the sealer I then move onto button polish the first three coats being applied with a fine brush. This is then sanded back with wet and dry paper 240 grit to remove any high spots of polish build up particularly the corner area's and in the moulding quirks, where I use a small metal stylus. After being happy with the result, I prepare a french polish "rubber" and apply as many coats as possible until I am happy with it's progression sanding back between every three coats. As the finish is getting more lustre I use a small amount of linseen oil with the button polish and apply it in a more "friction" polish method. This really starts to impart a beautiful "natural" glow on the timber. Again, once I am happy with the result after a final sanding the entire frame is rubber with pure beeswax and polished accordingly. The entire finish is an extremely thin one. Would like to hear your views if you try this method in the future. Your frame looks good and is great to see other framers experimenting. Well done!

[An Old Master]

Beautiful, but I'd prefer it without the 'worm' holes.

[prospero]

My first efforts involving hand-finishing were done in a similar way. That was when Ramin mouldings were more widely available. That used to polish up really well. Readily available plain mouldings that are french polish-friendly are quite limited. The black walnut one in the OP is quite unique. There are others, but they are mostly just square sections. Same with oak and ash. You could try polishing up Obeche, but it would need a lot of work.
I found that after about 6 coats of polish the amount of extra depth in the shine gets less and less.
I find doing 'faux' woodgrain is a lot more satisfying. A very old technique for making iffy wood look good.

Anyone tried hand-laying veneers?

[An Old Master]

Hand laid a shed load of Bird'eye maple many years ago, but, like leafing, decided it wasn't worth the time and effort.

[prospero]

I paint it on.

[Geoff]

This is the sort of finish I was referring to in a previous comment. This is french polished fruit wood (pear)in the manner I described where you can see the lustre and finish of the timber. We all have different ways in achieving whatever finish we have in our minds and there is no correct way, only the way you perceive it to be.
Poplar is a great timber to work with if you are looking for a stained and polished finish without going to the expense of other timbers.

[An Old Master]

Nice simulated BEM. The veneer I laid was that wonderful honey colour that looked as though it was lit from inside; gorgeous when finished but a pain in the arm to do.

[An Old Master]

IFGL, Why would using a beautifully finished frame like this deceive people into buying something presumablycontained inside it. I would consider that if the item framed was an old or classical subject, the choice of that finish would be entirely appropriate. Who are these 'Powers of evil' that you refer to as well?

[IFGL]

I have had in more than a couple of items purchased from a particular auction house in a Rotherham borough, sold or described as antique, framed with skill but were definitely not more than a few years old, and purchased for way more than their actual value.

No idea who these people are or if they have any affiliation with the aforementioned auction house, but there is someone definitely out to deceive for gain, maybe not evil but a right old ass hole.

and I do take your point the framer may have no knowledge of this.

[An Old Master]

Interesting. That particular auction house is a very good customer for restoration work. I shall ask discreet questions.