Wine Bottle
Posted: Fri 17 Nov, 2006 11:25 am
Tips on wine bottle framing, anyone?
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Wine Bottle
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Posted: Fri 17 Nov, 2006 4:53 pm
Empty first and enjoy !!
Posted: Fri 17 Nov, 2006 5:09 pm
Hi John
That question has brought back a few memories, as it was one of my first projects, many years ago.
It was an 'expensive' champagne bottle, that was to be displayed with the cork on one side and the receipt on the other.
From memory, sorry long before we had a digital camera as well.
A 125mm deep box frame with velvet mountboard. The box sides were sloped inwards to give the impression of a more deeper box.
A 'T' type plinth/shelf (rounded front and straight back) was made out of Mahogany that the bottle sat on. This was glued and screwed in from the back.
As the bottle had a rim around the bottom - about 25mm up from the base - I used very thin clear fishing line to hold the base and again around the neck. It actually could not be seen on the finished piece. I suppose something like Mylar stips could be used today.
Two long vertical runs of Holt Melt Glue were used where the bottle sides touched the mountboard and fortunately were hidden by the label on the bottle front.
It was surprisingly sturdy using this type of fixing technique. Although I am sure there are others.
Photos please when you have done it..
Good Luck
That question has brought back a few memories, as it was one of my first projects, many years ago.
It was an 'expensive' champagne bottle, that was to be displayed with the cork on one side and the receipt on the other.
From memory, sorry long before we had a digital camera as well.
A 125mm deep box frame with velvet mountboard. The box sides were sloped inwards to give the impression of a more deeper box.
A 'T' type plinth/shelf (rounded front and straight back) was made out of Mahogany that the bottle sat on. This was glued and screwed in from the back.
As the bottle had a rim around the bottom - about 25mm up from the base - I used very thin clear fishing line to hold the base and again around the neck. It actually could not be seen on the finished piece. I suppose something like Mylar stips could be used today.
Two long vertical runs of Holt Melt Glue were used where the bottle sides touched the mountboard and fortunately were hidden by the label on the bottle front.
It was surprisingly sturdy using this type of fixing technique. Although I am sure there are others.
Photos please when you have done it..
Good Luck
Posted: Fri 17 Nov, 2006 6:08 pm
A Pete Bingham's agony tip from donkeys ago may come in useful too.
A large as poss postal tube sawed in half lengthways and cut to size, lined with whatever - can make an effective shadowbox.
A large as poss postal tube sawed in half lengthways and cut to size, lined with whatever - can make an effective shadowbox.
Posted: Sat 18 Nov, 2006 8:29 am
I like the poster tube idea but won't the curved back present hanging difficulties?
Posted: Sat 18 Nov, 2006 6:31 pm
I don't remember the solution to that!
But if I were to do one I'd just put it in a box, and now I've imagined that, who needs a tube - you could curve anything into the box.
Also I suppose you could fashion some sort of half spandrel type bracket thingy and put one top and bottom of tube so there is aflat surface against the wall.
But if I were to do one I'd just put it in a box, and now I've imagined that, who needs a tube - you could curve anything into the box.
Also I suppose you could fashion some sort of half spandrel type bracket thingy and put one top and bottom of tube so there is aflat surface against the wall.
Posted: Tue 21 Nov, 2006 10:30 am
Thanks for the tips.
I was tempted by Robo's picture tube idea, but chickened out at the last minute and went for a conventional foamcore box.
The inset shows how hot glue was used to secure the bottle note the small blobs of Blue-tak that held it in place while the glue was applied
I was tempted by Robo's picture tube idea, but chickened out at the last minute and went for a conventional foamcore box.
The inset shows how hot glue was used to secure the bottle note the small blobs of Blue-tak that held it in place while the glue was applied
Posted: Tue 21 Nov, 2006 4:21 pm
Nice one John. That fillet gives it that something extra !!
Posted: Wed 22 Nov, 2006 7:35 am
I find that we are using fillets more and more. This is the smooth polished brass from Lion (Part No.2622C). This range is inexpensive and they look good, adding a huge amount to the perceived value with very little outlay. We also use the polished chrome and the polished black. On the right images these look stunning.