L&G,
I've been asked to provide some frames for Insurance Certificates which will be renewed annually.
I've come up with one scheme that will hopefully be suitably robust, but maybe you can advise/comment on this or suggest a 'standard' method for framing replaceable documents or artwork.
Document size is A4 and I'm going to use 22*22mm American Oak with plenty of rebate space. The assembly will probably be:
Glass or acrylic,
Document,
Conservation Kraft board with slots cut to accommodate clip-frame spring clips (otherwise 2mm MDF if Kraft isn't up to it).
Then to secure the assembly in the frame I'm thinking of springy wire of suitable size to engage into blind holes to the inside of the frame.
The ends of the spring clips should be hidden by the rebate.
Hopefully it should be simple enough to replace the paper without needing a post-doctorate degree.
What do you think? Am I re-inventing the wheel or is there a better way?
Many thanks,
Enjoy your Sunday evening glass of something!
John.
Document framing, but...
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Document framing, but...
He's whittling on a piece of wood. I got a feeling that when he stops whittling, something's gonna happen. (OUATITW/Cheyenne)
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Re: Document framing, but...
Thinking about it, it's going to be safer for the document changer if the glass is secured to the frame....
He's whittling on a piece of wood. I got a feeling that when he stops whittling, something's gonna happen. (OUATITW/Cheyenne)
Re: Document framing, but...
It sounds like you're making a clip frame and then framing it? Whatever holds the clip frame in will hold it in without the clips!
How about a frame with a shallow rebate - make sure the frame contents fill that rebate and use turn buttons. Or almost fill the rebate and use spring clips..... or if you have a pneumatic tab gun - flexitabs, but they're not much fun on deep-rebated frames, regards getting everything past them.
I wouldn't worry about securing the glass in to the frame, it can be seamed - if that's the right word - the edges are sanded and the corners rounded, Lion sell a pad for the job.
How about a frame with a shallow rebate - make sure the frame contents fill that rebate and use turn buttons. Or almost fill the rebate and use spring clips..... or if you have a pneumatic tab gun - flexitabs, but they're not much fun on deep-rebated frames, regards getting everything past them.
I wouldn't worry about securing the glass in to the frame, it can be seamed - if that's the right word - the edges are sanded and the corners rounded, Lion sell a pad for the job.
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Re: Document framing, but...
I do these certificate frames only mine are for 4 certificates in a horizontal row (915mm x 375mm glass size) I pack out the rebate with foam board and use turn buttons. There should be no need for anyone to touch the glass whilst replacing documents.
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- Posts: 61
- Joined: Sat 05 Sep, 2009 7:44 pm
- Location: South Molton
- Organisation: My garage
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- Location: South Molton
Re: Document framing, but...
Yes, a framed clip frame. The idea was to keep the document replacement procedure as simple as possible...to the effect of:
Remove assembly from outer frame,
Remove clips,
Lift back board,
Replace document,
Fit back board,
Fit clips,
Replace assembly into outer frame.
But I get your drift, Gents!
It can be simpler - if the backing board can be simply removed to expose the document, then that solves it pretty well, I reckon.
Many thanks for your comments!
John.
Remove assembly from outer frame,
Remove clips,
Lift back board,
Replace document,
Fit back board,
Fit clips,
Replace assembly into outer frame.
But I get your drift, Gents!
It can be simpler - if the backing board can be simply removed to expose the document, then that solves it pretty well, I reckon.

Many thanks for your comments!
John.
He's whittling on a piece of wood. I got a feeling that when he stops whittling, something's gonna happen. (OUATITW/Cheyenne)