The Framers Forum

Hello! I really need some advice here...

I'm an artist, and I've got 10 or so pieces to frame for a competitive show at a museum early this spring. I've also got a very limited student budget. I tried making my own frames for my last show and it was a total disaster! So... I've ruled out expensive custom framing and also ruled out making my own frames. It seems like now the only option for me is to purchase some inexpensive frames from a store like http://www.pictureframes.com, where I can specify custom dimensions, and then install the work myself.

Problem is, I need black frames in a traditional style; and after searching the net, it seems my options are limited. UNLESS I could maybe order some frames in another color and refinish them? (All the frames, though they may vary in style, must have the same finish.) I already have one frame whose finish I'm trying to match:



It looks like a black paint with rottenstone? Here's an example of a frame I'd like to transform into the above color/finish:
I guess my ultimate question is, what is involved with doing something like this? I imagine a store bought frame would have to be stripped before adding any kind of black paint or black gesso? And what would be the best way to get an even black? spray paint? black gesso and sanding? Also, I definitely want that rottenstone look, so what is the best way to work that in? wax? what kind of wax? I'm really clueless to the whole thing, so anyone with enough patience to guide me through the details would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!

-C

I wouldn't worry too much about trying to rub it down - perhaps just rough up the flat shiny parts quickly with some wire wool.

Then I would apply a couple of coats of black acrylic paint, and then use some black patinating wax on top of the paint, rottenstone after the black wax, and clear wax to finish.

Hope that helps

If you have a number to do, you might have a look here. Some matt or satin black before the wax and rottenstone would work. They have sprayed some picture frames in their ideas section.

http://www.rustoleumspraypaint.com/prod ... ters-touch

Hi and Welcome Artist.

I do a lot of this. As you say, the main thing is to get the paint to stick. Most finished moulding has a sealing coat of some sort to protect the underlayers. Ideally you should sand the finish back to a state where there is a porous layer that will grab the paint. This is only really possible on a simple profile.
The method I have used for many years is to use Shellac (French Polish) as an intermediate coat. Shellac is organic and also porous when dry. It will stick to most surfaces, but water-based paints will also stick to it. If you sand the frame as far as you can, just to rough up the surface and then give it a coat of shellac, you should have a good base to paint on. Usually I give it a diluted coat of Wickes Ripple Paint as a primer - maybe two depending on the finish underneath. (It only comes in white, but you can tint it with acrylics) The reason I do this first is that it is cheap. You sometimes need several coats to build up a solid base that completely covers the finish beneath. It has quite a lot of 'body', so it will cover slight imperfections and can be sanded nicely. You can also use it thick to create interesting textures. During this stage you can test the adhesion by scraping with your fingernail. If it's stuck properly it should not come off, but make sure it is completely dry.
Once you have a good base it is an easy job to apply top coats of Acrylics (I use Daler-Rowney - but that is mainly because it comes in pots with a wide mouth that you can get a good-sized brush in. ). 2-3 coats are usually sufficent. When that is dry, paint wax on and wipe off the excess. Don't polish. Leave this until the solvent has evaporated - maybe an hour and then dust liberably with rottenstone. Work it into any nooks and crannies. Blow off the excess and then set to work polishing with a clean duster. Magic!

I have samples and frames that go back 20years using this method and they are still good. The important thing is to check that the base is stable before you do the top coats. If it scrapes off with a fingernail in localised areas, you need to sand that section and re-prime.

** There is some stuff called ESP that is designed to be used as a barrier coat for awkward surfaces. I have heard good things about it, but have yet to try it. I intend to do so soon.

** There is some stuff called ESP that is designed to be used as a barrier coat for awkward surfaces. I have heard good things about it, but have yet to try it. I intend to do so soon.

Prospero

ESP is the real business, it saves a load of time and works superbly. As well as using it on frames, I have used it on furniture that customers wanted painting. One quick coat of ESP and the paint adheres as well as if you have spent an age sanding it back. It also lasts very well.

Cheers

Nick

Thanks for all the replies! This definitely helps.

-C

[quote="fusionframer

ESP is the real business, it saves a load of time and works superbly. As well as using it on frames, I have used it on furniture that customers wanted painting. One quick coat of ESP and the paint adheres as well as if you have spent an age sanding it back. It also lasts very well.
Nick[/quote]

Where is ESP available from?

fusionframer wrote:
..... It also lasts very well.

That's the one thing that bothers me. How long is very well?