The Framers Forum

Hi,
As a newby, I would like your advice on best way to attach/mount/frame a 'signed picture'. It is small, only approx 22cm x 10cm.

I know from reading this forum, that there is lots of ideas as well as best practice on framing certain types of things and I hadn't been expecting to be doing this type of thing so quickly after getting my morso, but we live and learn and I always take good advice, so please, please lend me your expertise.

Here is the Link to Hugh Phibbs article on preservation hinging, which was published in the Picture Framing Magazine remember in the US they call a mount a mat http://www.pictureframingmagazine.com/p ... NGSUPP.pdf

There is a wealth of information at www.pictureframingmagazine.com have a brows through the “Article Index” there is lotttttttttttttttttttttttttttt more information there

Good luck

Thank you,

Will have a look.

Personally I always use Filmoplast P90 tape - normally as T-hinges.

Unlike using paste, there's no chance of getting the artwork damp and, I've always imagined it was easily removeable - though I've never tried removing it after any appreciable length of time.

What do others think -- is P90 a good candidate for conservation framing?

We have moved on from P90 to PH7-70, it seems to have a better tack.

FYI, the company that makes Filmoplast has lost in court over the reversibility(conservation) claims of their tapes and the newer packages are marked accordingly. This info is per people involved with FACTS.

Hi everyone,

Thank you for your replies. I think I actually didn't explain myself very well. I realised that conservation hinging was required, but I was looking for ideas on presentation - sorry.

Anyway, I had a closer look at this and it is actually a limited edition picture printed on an envelope. The limited edition details are printed on the back of what I thought was the envelope enclosed with picture, but it is all the same thing. The flaps on the envelope are not stuck down and I spoke to the guy and asked that he take it to a framer in town that would be better able to advise him on how best to tackle this.

Thanks lots for your help though.

Hi Dot,

We used to use pH7.70 for most general work and one of the conservation water reversible one from Lion for the more demanding work. However, we have recently started using a tape from Frank Scraggs which is refered to in the catalogue as "Gummed hinging tape". It's a white acid free tape with an acid free, water reversible adhesive. You get a large roll of 350 metres (380 yards) for £16.50p. We are now using it in place of the pH7.70, but we are still using pH7.70 for the very few jobs which don't stick so well with water based adhesives.
Mark

If it comes with the adhesive on it already, whether you have to activate it with water or whether it's self adheseive.... it's not conservation quality.

Thats like a riddle John . I cant think of anything only Nori and mulberry paper, that does not come with water or pressure activated adhesive, maybe the grey cells are dying. I think that Hayaku Japanese Hinging Tissue is probably the best of the water activated adhesive tapes, well unless someone tells me different,

John,

Up until now, I had assumed Lion's "Archival hinging paper tape" satisfied the necessary requirements. I was also fairly sure it's lignen free paper, I must have a look again at what it says on the box.

Are you saying it's not up to the job? If so, can you tell us the reasons please. Perhaps I should stick to the mulberry tissue and wheat starch paste.

Incidentally when I was a bookbinder, I used to wet tear the repair tissue after having ruled a tear-line with water and a ruling pen. This caused a feathered edge which helped to avoid the edges showing through from repairs when veiwed from the other side of a repair. I have often thought that this should also result in stronger repair pieces or hinges, due to the smoothness of the resulting torn edges, but I havn't bothered doing it since my bookbinding days.
Cheers,
Mark

Read Dermot's link - when you have a spare half hour.

Also

http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?t=2667

a quote from that.....

"According to two conservators I consulted in developing the class on framing adhesives, the adhesive in Hayaku hinging tape is soluble nylon, which becomes irreversible with water over time.

Hayaku is much better than most hinging alternatives, such as pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes, but it is not suitable for projects requiring the best preservation.

For preservation hinging, there's nothing as good as pure starch paste without additives. That is available two ways:

1. cook it fresh, as needed, or
2. open a packet of Nori Paste."

Pretty simple realy!

We believe too much in what we read on tins - take some impartial advice from people more than qualified (not me).

Please lets keep things in perspective here.

It is rare that the average framer gets a job where he should be fretting that sometime next century his work will be opened up and it will be found to be extremely important that the very last traces of his PH-neutral self adhesive tape cannot be removed.

It can all get a bit anally retentive.

But then, some seem to enjoy fretting.

Carry on.

Roboframer wrote:the adhesive in Hayaku hinging tape is soluble nylon

John,

I can't wait to tell another framer I know, that the stuff I've seen him lick with his tougue is soluble nylon.
BTW thanks for the info too.
Cheers,
Mark

Framing Norah wrote:Please lets keep things in perspective here.

It is rare that the average framer gets a job where he should be fretting that sometime next century his work will be opened up and it will be found to be extremely important that the very last traces of his PH-neutral self adhesive tape cannot be removed.

It can all get a bit anally retentive.

But then, some seem to enjoy fretting.

Carry on.

It's been proven that claims are not true and there is information out there for us to use to ensure we do the right thing when and where necc, that's all.

Our choices are informed ones - or should be - if we as framers are NOT informed - then nor are our customers - they are not getting the chance to make the right decision because of our ignorance or lack of interest.

Framing Norah wrote: It is rare that the average framer gets a job where he should be fretting that sometime next century his work will be opened up and it will be found to be extremely important that the very last traces of his PH-neutral self adhesive tape cannot be removed.

Hi Norah,

I have two problems with this:

1. IMHO the supplier is not behaving ethically by witholding this information, because I am the one who has to make the responsible decisions concerning my customers valued work of art and ultimately as such I am legally responsible too!
If this tape can only fully be removed at some point in the future by some appropiate solvent, what would be the implicacations or applying the solvent in question.

2. How do we know how long it takes before this PH-neutral self adhesive tape cannot be removed. Chemical process times such as this are subject to many variables, temperature, humidity, the chemical composition of the work of art in question, just to name a few. What if it's only year or two? If conservation is not for the long term, than I would question how it is conservation at all! As the framer, I think that I need to know the implications of what I am using and the suppliers of these tapes should be up front about what they are supplying.

Sorry, but I'm with John on this and I'm going to be asking more questions about what I am using if manufacturers are keeping me in the dark and I'm thinking about only ever using mulberry tissue and wheat starch paste for future conservation work if I don't like the answers I get.

It also sounds to me that Jerry's method of cooking paste in a microwave oven is so quick and easy that it's not worth not doing it!
Cheers,
Mark