Theoretically I should be able to cut mouldings up to 100 mm wide on my Morso. This paricular moulding is 100 mm wide, yet I can't seem to raise the blades high enough to a cut the front of the moulding (20-22 mm) even after I took off the stopper. I noticed that there is an adjustable rod in the back (that moves the blades) but I think that serves to accomodate for blade sharpening over a period of time. It looks as if I raise the blades that way, they won't come down far enough to cut through the back of the moulding. Any suggestions?
BTW the moulding is $40 a meter, as a chop it is $90.
Thanks.
Morso vs large moulding
Re: Morso vs large moulding
You can do it Zolf, but it's slightly tricky.
On the first end cut, go in as far as you can. Then use the face you have cut to guide the blade so you can clear the rest of the waste part. Make sure the end is tight to the blade so you don't get a 'notch in the surface. Sometimes you have to take off the rebate supports. On a big moulding you can mostly get away with this.
The subsequent cuts are made the same way - but you can't use the measuring stop. You have to work out the length you need along the sight-edge and make a pencil mark. Cut in as far as you can without going over the mark. Gradually nibble slices off until the blade cuts up to the mark. Then push the moulding to the right and clear the waste to the left. This gives you enough room to back the blades and finish off the cut, again using the face already cut as a guide. Works quite well. Sometimes it's as well to cut the lengths across slightly oversize with a handsaw beforehand.
The tricky part is cutting two rails exactly the same length.
Rather hard to explain in words. Hope that makes sense.
On the first end cut, go in as far as you can. Then use the face you have cut to guide the blade so you can clear the rest of the waste part. Make sure the end is tight to the blade so you don't get a 'notch in the surface. Sometimes you have to take off the rebate supports. On a big moulding you can mostly get away with this.
The subsequent cuts are made the same way - but you can't use the measuring stop. You have to work out the length you need along the sight-edge and make a pencil mark. Cut in as far as you can without going over the mark. Gradually nibble slices off until the blade cuts up to the mark. Then push the moulding to the right and clear the waste to the left. This gives you enough room to back the blades and finish off the cut, again using the face already cut as a guide. Works quite well. Sometimes it's as well to cut the lengths across slightly oversize with a handsaw beforehand.
The tricky part is cutting two rails exactly the same length.
Rather hard to explain in words. Hope that makes sense.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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theframer
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Re: Morso vs large moulding
Hi Zolf
If you adjust the rod at the back to adjust so that the blades are as high as possible so when you put your foot on the pedal all the way down the top blades just meet the bottom blades this will give you a maximum standard cut and me be all you need to do good luck.
Dave
If you adjust the rod at the back to adjust so that the blades are as high as possible so when you put your foot on the pedal all the way down the top blades just meet the bottom blades this will give you a maximum standard cut and me be all you need to do good luck.
Dave
Dave
www.iconframers.com/
www.iconframers.com/
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Graysalchemy
Re: Morso vs large moulding
I used to use Prosperos method until I got feed up and bought a Cassese 939 
Seriously I does work once you get the hang of it, I supplied a bar with 30 large frames and mirrors using this method.
Seriously I does work once you get the hang of it, I supplied a bar with 30 large frames and mirrors using this method.
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Zolf
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Re: Morso vs large moulding
Thanks Prospero, it worked very well, the joints are better than acceptable. It took me an hour, but it was worth it.
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Zolf
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Re: Morso vs large moulding
And my wife reckons that I can't follow instructions.