Joining wide mouldings

[Julia]

HI all,

I've got my first wide moulding to join, 140mm (Arqadia, 757127000). Realized in time that my Morso wouldn't cut it, so have had it delivered chopped, but hadn't realized that my Cassesse CS88 doesn't take anything that wide to join!

I currently have it glued and in place with my band clamp (which I hate as can never seem to get them tight enough!). Are there any solutions for joining, I 'm guessing by hand? ALso, there are still gaps at the joins, even though had this chopped they don't fit together particularly well, are there any solutions for filling the gaps - the moulding is a white matt, smooth painted finish.

Think I'll probably steer clear of these in the future!!

Many thanks,
Julia

[Jonny2morsos]

Biscuit joints?

See this post http://theframersforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=8381

[prospero]

White mouldings. Arrrrgh!!!.

Something that size is going to have a gap somewhere.

Actually, that moulding doesn't really need wedges on the inside. A question of diverging angles..... As long as you get a few in the meaty bit at the back it will be strong enough. But if there is a slight twist in the moulding you lose the benefit of wedges at the inside levelling out the surface. (Or trying to). Biscuit slots on the inside would help. That's if you want to splash out on a biscuit cutter. Failing that, I would pin the back and add a steel L plate near the inside.

btw. A car trailer/roofrack tie-down strap works much better than most framing clamps. Stanley used to do a neat webbing clamp that you could cinch up very tight with a spanner. They sometimes come up on EBay. If you see one - grab it.


Now if I was manufacturing that moulding, I would make it in two parts. The back bit is a useful moulding in itself and so is the flat panel. Much easier to join two 2" frames and stick them one inside the other than one 4". More stable too. But that's maybe too sensible.

[Julia]

Thanks for replies, not come across a biscuit join, so I'll look that up. And thanks for the tip on the webbing clamp, I'll look out for one of them. Like the idea of putting a plate underneath and I'm seeing someone who is going to help with using their underpinner, as it can take a wide moulding, so fingers crossed!

In the future I shall definitely be joining a couple of smaller mouldings together to make a wider one, and paint them myself!

[CanvasChris]

I just recently had a similar moulding from Arqadia on chop.... wondered what the option of routing was when ordering on the website. for £2.50 they dovetail the joins on chop and so glad I did. Used 'L' brackets too to strengthen.

[Mark Thornton]

You could also just unscrew the horizontal brass clamp plate from your cs88 theres only one screw holding it in place this will increase the maximum moulding width for your underpinner by about 20mm .
Just don't forget to put it back on after you've finished.
Mark

[retropic]

Julia, I work on very large frames (this week was working with floorboarding 20cm wide to make a frame 2 metres tall (a stupid idea, the details for which I won't go into here). My colleague stapled his mitres, whilst I decided to biscuit join mine. If you've got a compressor, then a substantial staple should do the trick.

This was the contraption we made to cut the mitres (the piece on it is an offcut). The floorboard had to be clamped to the frame of the saw to prevent it slipping.

I might add that I never again want to make a frame of this size.

I'm near you in Greenwich/Bexley. If you need a hand, let me know.

Jon

[Julia]

Hi Mark - I've been trying to work out where the screw is to take off the top rebate clamp on my Cassesse CS88, but can't work out where it is! Can you advise please? There's one on the top, on the inner section of the 2 plates - the one without the tightening screw, but none of the allen keys thst came with the machine fit it, so not sure if it can be removed.
Thanks

[Julia]

Hi Canvas Chris, I'm trying to work out how the dovetail join would work on the moulding I have, and not show on the finished mitre, it's not particularly deep, just wide?

[CanvasChris]

They have different depth wedges.... its basically a plastic wedge/dovetail...ish type of fixing. not sure how many they would put in though.

The shape is a bit like a thick cross...the red is the size of the plastic wedge.

You can then strengthen it all with 'L brackets.

It's available on chop.... when you select chop online it gives you the option of Routing/Fixing Kits. Routing for wood and Fixing is for Aluminium.... or so I was told.

[Mark Thornton]

Hi Julia
See attached photo, just unscrew the one screw to remove the horizontal clamp plate.



Mark

[Graysalchemy]

I would biscuit joint and glue and pin if you are able. The weight of a frame especially if it large would just break pins on their own. You need to support it well if you do manage to underpin even with biscuits in it.