Frame first or mount?

[Trinity]

Lack of experience I suppose, but I make the frame first and then cut the mount, on the basis that if there is a problem, I can usually dismantle and shave a tad off each length of moulding and remake.
Is there a "right" convention?
Errors are less common these days and generally come from when I cannot get a good sight of the joint prior to pressing the pedal.

[fineedge]

I never make the frame first - always mount - on the basis that a mountboard is damn side cheaper than the moulding - so if there has to be a mistake its going to be on the mount board - then as I cut the frame I check it against a "correct" mount

[IFGL]

Simple answer ,it doesn't matter which you make first . we have different people cutting mounts than make the frames
, so long as your initial measurements are right all the rest will fall into place .

[Roboframer]

I cut everything that's going in the frame first so that when I cut the frame I can offer it up to all that and see how much, if any, I need to shave off to get the amount of play I want, there'll usually be a bit because I err on the side of caution, e.g. if the glass measures 483mm, I'll call it 485, and/or if the moulding is 48mm wide, I'll call it 50.

Also it makes sense IMHO to work from the artwork out, establish the image size, add the mount margin to establish the glass size, cut that (the glass, the mount, undermount, backing) mount the thing, cut & join the frame, fit.

[easypopsgcf]

Size it first, then glass and backing, then mounts(if needed), then clean and tape up all work. Only then onto cutting the frames and if i'm honest, if one out of a weeks work doesn't fit, i'm pretty unhappy about it. If you get your sizes correct from the start and your machinery is cutting accurately then there is no reason that things wont fit

[framemaker]

I usually do mount/undermount first then back and glass, these are then P90 taped together (although back is left loose) and then I cut the frame.

[GeoSpectrum]

Always the mount first. I like to make sure the mount border is correct for the image and I check with a moulding chevron or some offcuts that the whole job is going to 'look right'. It is much cheaper to recut a mount than remake the frame. I then cut the backing board and glass using the same settings on the Excaliber, assemble the sandwich and lay it to one side, make the frame and then assemble the whole package.

[Roboframer]

Looking OK has already been done at the counter with the customer - whether I agree or not, same applies to stuff I'm framing for sale in the shop - I've already established how wide a mount margin is best.

I like to do things with the minimum of procedure, I'll cut up to three boards at a time on the excalibur - be that a triple mount or a double mount and undermount, and I won't need to make three trips back and forth to and from where those boards are stored, I'll grab all I need on my way to the excalibur.

Take a step to the left and grab the backing board, cut that. Take two steps to the left and grab the glass, unless it's small enough for the offcuts stored behind the excalibur; then I don't have to move my feet at all. Mount slip? Needs to be made flush, so, while I'm at the excalibur, grab some skinny mount board or foam board offcuts that live next to the glass offcuts and cut them to size, just the width, the length can be trimmed after/whilst fitting.

Toss all bar the mountboard in to the centre of the workbench, take the mountboard to the mountcutter, cut, move around the workbench, fix the mounts together if it's a double etc, fit any slips and make flush with the strips I've already cut, hinge the mount to the undermount, mount the thing, make a stack of the mounted thing, backing and glass; cut & join the frame, take all that back to the other side of the bench, fit.

One lap of the bench, if I have to do more than two because I forgot something I swear a lot, probably a bit of an OCD thing.

[Jonny2morsos]

My workflow is dictated by our premises which means the morso and wall cutter are in different rooms (call them Room A and Room B)

Room A - Enter mount dimensions on CMC checking the artwork at this stage and ensuring all the details are correct on the job sheet. Cut mount, mount art work.

Room B - Cut frame, glass and backing board.

Return to Room A - Assemble and finish.

Sometimes I find it a time saving to have a mount cutting session especially as I do a lot of frames which I don't handle the artwork for e.g. photo studio orders.

[strokebloke]

Interestingly informative.
I've always assumed that 'the package' is done first and the frame second, with tape, buttons, rings & strings last. That's my thought process.
Seems it is in keeping with everyone elses, too.

[prospero]

I always do the mount first. Then glazing and back sealed up in one lump. Then make the frame to fit that. Often I make things up as I go along so I don't always know what size the frame needs to be until I do the mount and sometimes can't tell what frame it needs either.

[Ricky]

mount picture/artwork, ect
cut glass & backing board,
clean, Seal & stack together on bench
cut frame to glass size,
Frame over Glass
Turn over
Pin, Tape, Hangers.
Job Done.

[Not your average framer]

I can work either way, because all my equipment is accurately set-up and calibrated. However I usually make the frame after cutting the mount.

My Morso undercuts by 1mm, so I have to add an extra 1mm and I am mentioning this, because I am told that it is not an uncommon problem and it is worth checking the accuracy of your own Morso, just so you know!

Apparently small errors like this, build up over time, (mine was accurate when I first got it many years ago). Those of us (like myself) who like to get the blades really snug into the fences, are perhaps more likely to experience this, but I'm guessing and don't really know for sure!

[misterdiy]

We work in a batch process type of way which means we cut the mounts and fix the artwork first. These are normally done the day they arrive in the workshop. Then stored until all frames, glasses and backs are cut - usually on a weekly basis -but dependant upon customers and materials availability. Rarely do we have to recut backs and glasses unless I have missed a scratch on the glass, but more often I find a blemish on the frame which means a remake. We like to make frames on one day and leave overnight before assembly, but this is not always possible, especially if the frame has to be remade.

[IFGL]

I guess I'm the odd one out here then I batch frames I will make all the frames in a particular molding starting with the biggest first ,that way the smaller frames use up the off cuts while ioing this Jamie is cutting all the mounts for the frames.I cut the glass and backing next then take the frames round to the shop where Jamie or Gemma assembles. it is vary rare anything is wrong. if we put in wrong sizes into the software then the image looks wrong on screen . the job report that is produced gives me exact measurements to work to and produces a mount report for Jamie .

That said i really can't type with this phone .

[Abacus]

We are (furtunately) a busy shop, so we batch produce:

1) "Work in" is placed on a "waiting" bench, or in large pigeon holes depending on value/fragility/complications

2) When we have a few jobs waiting (depending on work in obviously) one or two of us does all the mounts, backing, bonding etc

3) Meanwhile another of us cuts all glass for all jobs (different room) and then chops all the frames

4) Whilst the frames are being chopped someone else pins them and puts all the elements together (upside down in frame to denote unfinished)

5) Any jobs waiting for moulding are put on a waiting bench with the work/mount/glass/back package loosely assembled. When the moulding arrives the jobsheets are added to the to be chopped pile

6) The work/mount/glass/back packages are then put on a "to be assembled" bench where a dedicated assembler puts them together before they are put in bays and the customer name entered in the book

The system usually works really well, and a rush job can just be slotted into the process, or a difficult job or canvas streching can be worked around. It helps to have 2 highly experienced framers (plus me!) doing the work.

[IFGL]

If someone brings you print to be mounted to a certain size, is this a problem ?
B
If someone brings you a mounted print to be framed , is this problem ?

If you awnsered no to both then it dosn't matter just do what works for your set up

[Roboframer]

I something is to be mounted to a certain size, it could be that it's to go in a frame provided by the customer, so you don't have to worry about whether to cut the mount or the frame first. Or they could just want it a certain size, but in a frame you'll make, in which case you just do whatever it is you do first; frame last seems to be the norm though.

If someone brings in a mounted print (and you fail to get them to replace it wth a better quality, colour or sized one of your own) then the 'what comes first' scenario doesn't come in to it.

[Bagpuss]

My Morso undercuts by 1mm, so I have to add an extra 1mm and I am mentioning this, because I am told that it is not an uncommon problem and it is worth checking the accuracy of your own Morso, just so you know!

Like everyone else, I size up the art, cut mount, backing board on my LION guillotine ( used to do it on my Excalibur 5000 but much prefer accuracy of this and ability to "shave" bits of board off if I need to ). I then cut glass on my Excalibur, polish it up and then tape up the sandwich (most of the time I use tape).

What I still struggle with is accurate cutting on my Morso... it seems a bit hit and miss depending on moulding, if I add 2mm to the glass size sometimes it'll be more like 4mm
Does anyone have one of those digital readers that you bolt onto your Morso measuring arm ?? I've alway liked the idea of them but have never know anyone that had one

Adam/Bagpuss

[prospero]

That's why I like to cut the frame to fit the glass. Measuring the back of the moulding isn't all that accurate on the Morso scale. You tend to round up a bit and every error is multiplied by two. I use a digital calliper to be really accurate. Reads in 0.1mms. And I always offer up the rails to the glass/art/back package before joining - fine tuning if necessary.