The Framers Forum

This isn't all that new a method but I first read a description of it on TFG the other day and made this as a POS example.

First cut a mount (double mount in this case) as normal, to overlap the image by however much, plus an under mount. This is a coloured core board to help with the explanation.
But instead of hingeing the window mount to the under mount, cut an aperture in the under mount one millimetre larger than the paper, preferably a 90 degree cut too, but bevelled is OK.
Glue the under mount to the back of the window mount and glue it RIGHT up to the aperture in the under mount. Starch paste is good, but PVA or something like evacon would be OK, depending, and if you have a press, use it; with no heat. Weights are fine if you don't have a press and some ATG tape at the extremities to hold in place while the adhesive goes off is fine too. The blue aperture below is the back of the window mount
Drop the artwork in.
Drop the under mount's fall out in to its aperture and tape over the corners with gummed linen tape. (or something else - up to you, again "depending"). I haven't done that because I want to show customers how it works.
All done
Not perfect for everything - but whatever it is good for, it's very good for, simple and safe.

Thanks to Jim Miller.

I understand what you've done John. Your pictures are easy to follow.
But as a novice, it's not at all clear to me why you'd want to do it, as opposed to using a conventional hinged method.
I'm certainly not criticising, nor questioning the wisdom of it - merely asking for an explanation of the wisdom and the purpose of it, please ??

Jack

It's just a non-adhesive method. Even the best hingeing techniques and materials do something to the artwork, this does nothing; there are other methods that don't either, like edge mounting strips. Certain types of hinge may also be removeable with water, others with solvents, but by who? Nothing to remove here.

Although it's a conservation method it's also a simple and cheap method and there may be other reasons than value of artwork for using it. Some examples - a postcard or things that have something on the back that a hinge would cover/ruin; something on almost transparent paper; something totally transparent like acetate; something where the hinge would be behind the image area and its shape would show due to the type of paper .... lots more.

I like it, will try it out on Monday.

I use a similar method for things that are on board. But instead of using a whole board, I line up the board with the window, then carefully make pencil marks on the back of the mount where the corners are. Flip over and fix strips of scrap mb to the back - aligned with the corner marks, with a small allowance. Mostly I apply them Catherine-wheel fashion and slice off the excess around the edge.
The board just drops in. In theory, once the back is on and all assembled it should stay put. Sometimes I do apply a few tabs of tape to hold it. Or if this is not desirable, a few overlapping strips of thin barrier board does the job.

That is similar but it's something you have to do (or should do) to make such an item flush, a 'sink mount'.

Thanks John. Much appreciated.
Understanding makes sense of it.
I'll store that one away

Thanks John,

I often use this technique, as it can make difficult jobs easier to do. Up until now I never knew there was a name for this technique, but now I do!

Would this method be as effective with a large aperture and heavier artwork?

Yes, read post No 9 here http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.ph ... rix-poster

Thanks for that great explanation robo, I'm going to use the method tomorrow with a piece I didn't really want to hinge.

Nice, used this process on things like tiles with 5mm foam on the back.
Very handy process.

On a different note I have examples of that grid stitching for holding something that's completely 100% reversable.
Will post at weekend.

Don't get this confused with sink mounting a 3 dimensional object that does not need that tiny amount of play for expansion. If you were to use this method for a tile using foam board as an under mount, you could not drop the fallout back in over the tile, well, you could but it would stick out and have to be made flush.