Underpinner pressure pad
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Mary
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Underpinner pressure pad
I have a second hand underpinner which is a Framers Corner one, likely well over 20 years old. I suspect it's not going to go the distance but for now I'd like to get it set up to do reasonable service while I save for a better one. My trouble is that the feet on the pressure pads have seriously degraded, hardened and split. Called FC and was told spares aren't available as it's too old. I've got the pads off and glued on 4mm felt in their place. But if I have the pressure hard enough to get the Vs in properly it's denting the corners of the (admittedly soft) frames. Is there a better material I should use - neoprene, expanded rubber, solid rubber? Or thicker felt? Or should I just stick to rock-hard mouldings that can stand up to it?
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silvercleave
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Re: Underpinner pressure pad
Hello Mary
I have found that a piece of packaging from around electrical appliances, think it is called ..............now I've forgotten but not polystyrene, but I use pipe wrap material and find it just the job, doesn't damage the shape of the moulding but holds it firm.
Someone will know what I Mean
Ian
I have found that a piece of packaging from around electrical appliances, think it is called ..............now I've forgotten but not polystyrene, but I use pipe wrap material and find it just the job, doesn't damage the shape of the moulding but holds it firm.
Someone will know what I Mean
Ian
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Re: Underpinner pressure pad
For years, I have used a wooden triangle between pressure pad and moulding. It's maybe 5" on a side, about 1/2" thick. One side has 1/8" cork tacked to it. and the whole lot is wrapped with handywrap. This is to stop hardened glue building up on the cork. When it gets manky, re-wrap it.
This works great for spreading the pressure evenly. It's an extra operation as you have to align the join and then place the triangle. So maybe not good for high-volume work. But it does save a lot of heartache.
You can also place it on the inner edge of a scooped moulding so the pressure is in the right place. I've a selection of various L shapes for use on awkward mouldings, also cork covered.
An old trick for awkward shapes you use regularly is to mitre a couple of short offcuts the wrong way round. That is, with the rebate toward you in the Morso. Pin it together and place it face-down on the joint. It will fit exactly in all the ups and downs and leave a flat area on top. So you can pin right across the moulding without adjusting the pressure. Very handy on reverse sections.
This works great for spreading the pressure evenly. It's an extra operation as you have to align the join and then place the triangle. So maybe not good for high-volume work. But it does save a lot of heartache.
An old trick for awkward shapes you use regularly is to mitre a couple of short offcuts the wrong way round. That is, with the rebate toward you in the Morso. Pin it together and place it face-down on the joint. It will fit exactly in all the ups and downs and leave a flat area on top. So you can pin right across the moulding without adjusting the pressure. Very handy on reverse sections.
Watch Out. There's A Humphrey About
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David Jarvis Gunnar
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Re: Underpinner pressure pad
I think you will find a piece of 6mm perspex will also do the job. That way you can see what is going on
Underneath the triangle.
Underneath the triangle.
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Mary
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Re: Underpinner pressure pad
Brilliant, thank you folks! What an awesome forum this is 
