stacking mouldings

[CalicoFraming]

Can anyone suggest the best approach to stacking mouldings? Should I glue up the component parts whilst still in 10ft lengths so it can be mitred as one, or should I construct each part separately and fix together once they're all joined? If the latter, would you make the outermost frame first, and work inwards, or the other way around. Or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?

Thanks in anticipation

[Not your average framer]

First I measure up all the mouldings using digital calipers and when I add up all the moulding widths and add 0.5mm glue clearance between mouldings. I always start with the outer moulding, cut and join it, then cut the next moulding sligthly too large and shave it down on the Morso until its an easy fit, allowing a little bit of play so that when the corners expand as you insert the wedges it will still slide into place.

I often produce stacked moulding frames with "completely over the top" massively wide moulding profiles, for people who live in large country houses.

[Abacus]

We do the opposite of Mark! We start with the inner most frame cut to glass size, re-measure and make the next largest etc etc.

So it's whatever floats your boat.

I don't thing making up a length and mitring is the way to go though ymmv though

[IFGL]

we also start with the smallest first just as you start with the picture and work out.

[Trinity]

Mark, and all, if your minded I'd appreciate some pictures of stacked moulding examples, the idea is great and I'm sure I could use it it's just I'm a bit green on the various combinations of moulding.
Keiith

[Tudor Rose]

We also start with the glass size first and work outwards from that. Far less complicated and less prone to error. The only exception would be if we had been given a maximum outer size to fit a space for a customer for eg a framed mirror.

[theframer]

Hi Keith here are a couple of examples, you are best of playing around with sample chevrons first to see how they look combined,
Dave

[prospero]

Nothing much to add except: It's a good idea to make sure you stick to the differential between long and short side for all the cuts.

If you need to have the rebate size mega-accurate, then start from the inside and fit the other elements to the inner. Then you know the sight size is spot-on and there is some jiggle-room with the rest.
Otherwise I find it easier to work from the outside. Sometimes I start in the middle. Depends on the construction.

Sticking all the pieces together in the length and chopping the lot is not a good idea. On a 5" frame you are going to waste about 2+ feet of the inner moulding per frame.

[Not your average framer]

I do it the way that I do so that I can get all the mouldings tightly glued together. I am usually handfinished the whole combination as one and don't want any cracks in the finish to appear later due to movement between the different mouldings.

This means that the clearance between mouldings must be kept small, so that the glue between the mouldings remains a solid fill. My trial fit method avoids any variations due to errors in measurement, or calculation.

[IFGL]

what stops you getting tight fit working from the centre out?

[Trinity]

Thanks Dave for those examples, I'll use that suggestion of getting some chevrons too.
Keith

[Not your average framer]

what stops you getting tight fit working from the centre out?

In theory if your measurements and calculations are perfect then you can get a good result doing it either way, but I find it much easier to use the trial fit method and know that I will always get it perfect every time. This means that the mitres in each of the stacked mouldings will line up perfectly every time.

I also like to try and line up running patterns on embossed or pasta mouldings, so I'm trying to trim one end of a cut length of moulding to match another at the mitre before cutting the other end. This already means trimming the first end of the moulding slice by slice until it looks right, so this is the way I am comfortable with doing things and it works for me.

Incidentally quite a number of embossed or pasta mouldings can be made to line up reasonable well at the mitres, albeit with a little extra care, effort and sometimes a little sand paper too! Sometime if and when I plan another handfinishing course, if perhaps there is time to demonstrate this and to prove that this is possible. Otherwise I would like to do so Youtube demos in the new year, so this might be a good one to do!

[IFGL]

I too in the past have adopted the slice it until it's perfect method, but find it quicker and easier to measure and cut accurately this adds only 30 seconds at the most to each molding. I find we get very good results trimming the high points filling and touching in colour to pasta moldings pina at first but very quick once you get good. Time is still a problem for us.

Nice too read how others do it, I'm sure you will find your own way of working.

[prospero]

If it's a plain wood section you are making and you need to have the whole thing in one lump, I like to use a grab adhesive (solvent free). Screwfix do some 'No Nonsense' brand that is very cheap compared with the DIY sheds. It's easy to apply with a pump thingy and will bridge any gaps. You can also grout the seams between mouldings with it by squeezing a bead along a join and smoothing with a wet finger. Works well as a filler and when it's dry can be sanded and will take paint. Don't get the solvented sort as it's very messy.