I've been using a lot of unfinished ash mouldings of late and I like it a lot but on occassion I would like something with a less pronounced grain. I often stain or paint the finished frame and the grain of ash still show through, not something I allways want. I like the hardness of ash so don't want to use obeche. I think my choices are going to be beech, maple oak, pine or tulip? Which ones would not tend to show the grain?
Thanks
Alan
Unfinished with minimum grain
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Unfinished with minimum grain
Alan Huntley
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Re: Unfinished with minimum grain
Seems a shame to paint those lovely grained woods
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Re: Unfinished with minimum grain
Think we are stuck with Obeche pro temp.
Ramin was the ideal wood for staining. Sadly (or maybe not ), imports in plank form are banned. Only ready-milled profiles, of which very few are still gettable.
Pine has no pores as such, but does have knots/splits and other defects. Some grades are virtually knot-free, but more expensive. But athough it has no pores it does have hard/soft parts that are hard to eliminate by sanding. Not easy to stain.
There are various tropical hardwoods that come under the general term 'Mahogany'. Not used in frames a lot. If at all. They tend to warp/twist in all directions when milled in narrow sections. Also can be very grainy.
Beech is smooth enough. But a shame to paint over the nice grain. I've only every seen it in flat profiles for framing. Woodworm LOVE it.
You can fill the grain in Obeche by giving it a good going-over with Pollyfilla. Get a knackered old brush and use a scrubbing action to work it well in. Dilute it a bit, but not too much. A bit like an olde shaving brush. Leave it a minute or two and wipe off the excess with a damp sponge - but not too damp or you wash out all the filler. The wetting action will swell any grainy parts, which is a good thing as when it's dry you can sand it smooth and the grain won't swell again when you paint it.
If you want the grain pattern to show, but still get the smooth surface there are various old cabinet makers tricks to filling the grain without obscuring the pattern.
Anyone know any old cabinet makers?
Ramin was the ideal wood for staining. Sadly (or maybe not ), imports in plank form are banned. Only ready-milled profiles, of which very few are still gettable.
Pine has no pores as such, but does have knots/splits and other defects. Some grades are virtually knot-free, but more expensive. But athough it has no pores it does have hard/soft parts that are hard to eliminate by sanding. Not easy to stain.
There are various tropical hardwoods that come under the general term 'Mahogany'. Not used in frames a lot. If at all. They tend to warp/twist in all directions when milled in narrow sections. Also can be very grainy.
Beech is smooth enough. But a shame to paint over the nice grain. I've only every seen it in flat profiles for framing. Woodworm LOVE it.
You can fill the grain in Obeche by giving it a good going-over with Pollyfilla. Get a knackered old brush and use a scrubbing action to work it well in. Dilute it a bit, but not too much. A bit like an olde shaving brush. Leave it a minute or two and wipe off the excess with a damp sponge - but not too damp or you wash out all the filler. The wetting action will swell any grainy parts, which is a good thing as when it's dry you can sand it smooth and the grain won't swell again when you paint it.
If you want the grain pattern to show, but still get the smooth surface there are various old cabinet makers tricks to filling the grain without obscuring the pattern.
Anyone know any old cabinet makers?
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Re: Unfinished with minimum grain
The best woods for an even straight grain are the fruitwoods, as used in antique frames. Cherry wood is available from Lion. As already explained, wet the wood, allow to dry and then sand with 320 grit paper.
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Re: Unfinished with minimum grain
Perhaps you should try Limewood, it has a very pale almost featureless grain, but you do need to talk to your supplier and get them to ensure that they only send you clean and unblemished wood, if the are leaving the wood as natural as possible.
Mark Lacey
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