The Framers Forum

Grahame

I'm not a big fan of FaceBook, but if any of you have some thoughts about how to help them, go to it! I've posted about it on my blog; even made a "sticky" out of it. (Baer was honored, his first sticky)

I just searched here and did not see any thing about Baer Charlton and Laura Reynolds book about framers. They need help to get it published, so they've started a KickStarter project. There is a better explanation here: http://www.thegrumble.com/showthread.php?58023-First-Novel-Ever-About-a-Picture-...

My method is to first break the miter by laying a block of wood under the corner, and applying pressure, either by hand or with clamps, to the sides. Then I use a clamp that is reversed, that will open out on the rabbet. Protect the rabbet with clamp pads or blocks of wood. Some elaborate frame are ...

The problem I have with tongue poking out is chapped lips, specially in the winter, though it does seem essential to good technique.

Some counterpoints. I use ruling pens and fountain pens a lot. My preferred writing tool is a fountain pen, of which I have four at present. One is over 70 years old, one is over 60 years old, and neither is worn weirdly other handed. They both have relatively soft, gold nibs. Ruling pens are steel,...

And just to throw some gas on the fire, who is to say that copper or stainless steel, 50 or 100 years from now will be fine, but there was some kind of reaction with the canvas and wood, and the canvas will be rotted around the fastener. Go ask a plumber about combining copper and iron pipe. Acceler...

Nigel, I think stainless steel staples are an excellent idea; though my point is still valid; enough moisture problems for you to need marine staples, and the other problems are going to be far worse. This is from someone who started his career as a paintings conservator, but found it mind numbing t...

The protective tape sounds good, though I think if there is enough of a moisture problem to rust the staples, the other problems will be far more serious than the staples. One of the problems with museum conservators is the pace of the work is conducive to a certain amount of over thinking, whereas ...

In the states, conservators are increasingly using copper tacks, with little board "washers". I'm assuming this has to do with the rust of conventional blue tacks, though I've handled very old canvases where the tacks are fine; the canvas has rotted at the edges. I personally prefer staple...

I've done eight sided frames, usually to cut into Tondos, milled after joining, for which I have numerous jigs. I've also had the luxury of knowing the joints were going to be under gesso. 22.5 degree cuts, joined with biscuits, using wooden screw clamps on each section, providing a surface for othe...

There are different dilutions, and weak muriatic acid is used to etch concrete, to improve adhesion. I was in the "I'll try anything" mode to get the gunk off this one frame. The technique I used is a neutral solvent like VM&P Naptha to moisten the surface, the weak acid, wiped quickly...

Not your average framer, Use caution, be aware that water will remove old water gilt gold, even if it has been sealed, but it sounds as though a lot of what you are seeing is bronze powder finishes. Considering the history of antique frames, worrying about a loss of finish does seem a little trivial...

The acid in the coke is the cleaner, but, lordy, the moisture in the coke will remove, traditional, water gilt gold. Be careful. On metal leafed surfaces, you will probably remove the sealant, causeing a very rapid oxidation of the metal leaf. Sorry, just because you get an immediate "good"...

Nicely done, Roboframer. Also commend the use of ruling pens.

I blather about the topic more here: http://frame-notes.blogspot.com/2009/04 ... -mats.html

Simon,

Thanks!

Did some one mention free beer?

Hide glue has the delightfull property of not adhering to the finish. I switched to exclusively hide glue, not for that reason, as I seldom work with pre-finished, but the ability to reglue a broken joint. The Titebond type alphatic resin glues won't bond well to dried glue. If you're finishing afte...

Here, an example of a butt-joined frame: http://frame-notes.blogspot.com/2009/05 ... inery.html

The rabbet is milled with a router, one of my "electric beavers", squared with mallet and chisel, Gesso and leaf cover a multitude of sins.