The Framers Forum

I’ve done a mount with a spacer too with things like medals with photos etc in apertures as well, but that’s functional, not to create an effect, an effect I personally find a bit odd, with no practical function whatsoever. I appreciate what you're saying but design is all about creating an effect....

And as it's American you'll need a set of Imperial allen keys and spanners if they aren't with it.

@prospero Is it though?? Surely this technique wouldn't be so widely used if that was the case. The way backing board is designed, with a curve in it, placed curve inwards is designed to add some pressure to the work. If hung in a suitable position I don't think this should be a problem tbh. The fea...

Yeah a little airing might be in order. What's the likelihood of offgassing with a stinky shirt??

@RobM With the glass cutter on a panel cutter on the wall, if you have a new wheel, pop a drop of wheel oil from Lions on it before cutting, start 5mm in and don't let it crash off the bottom of the glass, it should cut perfectly sounding every time. Since I've been more careful with my technique my...

Yes remove the two side arms, assuming your back seats will go down you should be fine.

Interesting, looks like walnut? Has a 1950's-1970's Scandinavian look.

Thanks, it's a nice change sometimes when the customers know exactly how they'd like it to look.

Yes it is a done thing. This customer specifically requested it. We think it worked perfectly.

My best tip for joining fillets/spacers like this. If it's a 5mm deep spacer buy some 3mm wedges and glue and join on the underpinner making sure to fit the wedge side against the glass not the work. Measure the inside of the frame, cut the spacer lengths 1mm shorter, if it's too tight try shaving o...

On a piece that size I'd want a spacer deeper than 3mm. Standard spacers start at 5mm deep providing ample distance from the glass and can be joined on an underpinner using 3mm wedges. I wouldn't stress about the subframe extending a few mm more. If the subframe extended a lot more and you weren't h...

There are differing views on this. I am happy to close frame the work behind the spacer, some are not. I hinge onto board, the top hinges are "tight" the surrounding hinges are "loose" (see Hedgehog technique) allowing for expansion and contraction of the work. If the backing boa...

Speak to Peter at Framers Equipment in Northampton.
Or ask away here if you want to do it yourself. I guess it depends what state it is in and how well it is working but it's a fairly basic piece of equipment which requires a good clean grease/oil/ptfe spray and some freshly sharpened/new blades.

That sounds even better.

https://katharinerichardsframing.co.uk/ does some really nice work, based in Cardiff.

Someone was asking recently about how to extend the frame rebate. Here's one I just did using 18mmx5mm Obeche barewood spacer from Rose and Hollis. Fixed with glue and a new headless pinner (https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-professional-ap1220hp-headless-pinner-24g-12-20mm-107613?utm_source=...

Titebond says:"...clamp for a minimum of 30 minutes (longer is better). Do not stress joints for 24 hours". If I'm in a hurry and it's a small frame I've fitted it after 30 minutes but usually at least overnight or longer. I believe full curing is about 2-3 days. If it's a large frame some...

I clamp all of the frames I make. It's the glue that gives the joint its strength and the glue cures best under pressure.

I think you'll find that it's a common issue with stacking wedges. If you're using a good quality PVA glue and clamping it after then, the wedges are really only additional security.

@Martock it sounds like you have answered your own question.