The Framers Forum

I wouldn't worry too much, just advertiose it as what it is, a mitring guillotine.

......... it was your recent postings that revealed your true identity, making it clear that your heart wasn't in it, and you really wanted to be found out. :) Hi John. Maybe, or that I wasn't worried about being; I never liked the idea of being anonymous, like many are though. I see you're retirin...

Just so everyone knows ...... JKX is supposed to be John Kirk - ex ............ Framer? Well, yes, but also past Forum member! John is my real name, Kirk is a family name but my actual surname is Turner and here, I was Formerly Known as ... RoboFramer. Hi !! - and for all pre 2017 ..... Hi again! Th...

Is it exclusive to mainline? Many suppliers buy stuff from the same places.

Agreed! If you need training on a machine and whoever you bought it from couldn't or wouldn't do it (e.g. maybe two whole days installation/training comes with a new CMC and I gave the same when I sold mine too!) then if you can't do it on youtube or this forum, on line in other words, then there ar...

Bit of a quiet sub forum!

Anyway - this is free! Hope it can be of use!


http://www.pictureframingmagazine.net/P ... Report.pdf

Given my time over I’d bypass most start up’s major fear - speculation! There is good and not so good training to be had - my advice is yes, use guild certified trainers but look all over (the world) for literature - hard copies or on line like places like this. Watch Facebook it can be full of dros...

Got it

If there’s a chance it’s factory finished it could be from l juhls coastal woods. There’s one very very close bearing in mind suppliers measurements aren’t always bang on - plus batch to batch plus your measurements may not be bang on etc etc

I think it's great - I was wondering about spacing, regardless of optium properties but fully understand having to do more to the thing if it was spaced. Not sure about the two layers of mylar, I think I'd have gone - padded mounting board, protective (level 1) backing (undermount) - archival backin...

I hadn’t noticed that - just that it was on offer, a happy little accident.

Jacksons. Put odourless in to their search for different brands and quantities.

https://www.jacksonsart.com/bob-ross-od ... -road-only

..

Nail polish remover, vinegar, alcohol, maybe heat, all combined with some brute force. What sort of underpinner anyway? Photos?

Spacers for me too, from all sorts of stuff I’d have in stock, probably off cuts of too, including oak slips, probably correx though.

I actually wouldn’t have a problem with the canvas set back a bit anyway.

This subframe moulding from Wessex is good - it also doubles up as a hanging system. Someone like Rose & Hollis will no doubt have similar and you could also do the same from any suitable sloped moulding.

https://www.wessexpictures.com/res/Sub%20Frame.pdf

It says "could I do a thinner face if it was deeper? say a 25mmx40mm wooden frame, and then with a subframe and probably cross bars as well?

Anyway - yes! As long as outer frame is deep enough to conceal subframe, and if subframe is meaty enough you shouldn't need cross bars.

I was never that fussed about this method - there are many ways to do this "fallout" method, this is just one person's adaption of it. The bridge and anchor hinges I suppose are to replicate the tight and pendulum T hinge already mentioned when mounting in the normal way - you just need mo...

Not being a conservator/restorer, ideally you want to renew the whole frame contents with a nice upgrade to conservation/museum glass while you’re at it. The mount/undermount/glazing sandwich can be enclosed in metal foil, that with a non absorbent backing like correx will help prevent repetition. G...

Absolutely - plus some like these plaques on the frame itself.

Just an alternative idea to anyone reading the thread