Notes on Mitre Trimmers (for novices?) by a novice

[Roy]

Hello

I'm new to framing, and have had a few trials with two mitres trimmers, so thought I'd post some comments which might help anyone who has, or is thinking of buying, a mitre trimmer to 'tidy up' their mitres - although a novice, I hope the little I've learned may benefit others.

I initially cut mouldings (a little oversize to allow for trimming) on an old Nobex type 202 Mitre Saw, which I'm happy with, and it cuts pretty good, clean mitres - to be honest they are often good to go; sort of - I say 'sort of' but I am pretty critical of my own work, and possibly too much (but I don't think so!)

I've bought pretty flimsy nobex saw clamps in the UK (the sort that come with the new Nobex Champion I believe?), but wasn't happy. I contacted Sweden (website: plano.se) for advice - They were extremely helpful, and I obtained two 'proper' Nobex (at least I think they are Nobex, but they're good anyway) mitre saw clamps for just £3 more than two of the the flimsy ones (and that considers the £10 charge from my bank for the international payment)

I know I was talking about trimmers, but thought that might be of interest.

Mitre Trimmers:

I have an Axcaliber Mitre Trimmer from axminster.co.uk, which I think might be the same as the one from Lion and others; just a different paint job, and think that might be the only type available, and also, from fleabay, and old (of course) Orteguil machine.

The Orteguil:

A very nice, clean machine, complete with the original measuring arm (and, I forgot, a moulding support which also came from Sweden, included in the price of the clamps).

It takes a bit of tweaking to get the 45's, and tends to need re-tweaking a bit, but then the mitres are very good, and no gaps top/bottom as the blades seem pretty near to (or exactly?) 90 deg to the table
The only problem with it is that although the rebate side is pretty good (esp with a made up rebate support), the outside edge is not so good at times - I tried it with a moulding with gold paint (or thin foil?) and it wasn't good enough, even to fill with gold was etc - it tends to 'squash' at the end of the cut -pretty bad, but better with plain, softwood

I thought the blades might be dull, so I took it to a local engineering workshop who thought they were ok (??) - they didn't convince me, so you jury is out there

The Axcaliber Mitre Trimmer:

No need to tweak the blades, as they are pre-set, and run horizontally left and right. Using an engineers 45 deg (is that exact?) I set each side for 45 deg. Using the engineers 45 deg (made of plastic ) I moved the arms by hand, then set the thumbscrews, and the two allen keys to lock the settings.
Great 45 deg, BUT...the back fence (correct term?) is not at 90 deg to the base (so one of the two, or both, is out). I thought of a shim (correct term?) behind the top of the back fence as it's leaning back, but then realised this is not possible as blades are set exactly. (this was causing problems with mitres, as of course it's gapping at the top, and possibly 'juddering' a bit too.)
The solution (relief!) was that I've used a small piece of very thin (Umm, I think it was an old bookmark or something) that must be just about 0.5mm, about 25mm in from the thumbscrews, which lift the moulding just enough to give me the 90 deg - this gives me a very nice mitre; it fits perfectly inside the 45 deg 'V' of my Alfa U-200 underpinner with no gaps inside/outside of mitre, or top/bottom, so pretty pleased with that (and no real hassle using the pice of 'bookmark' considering the learning curve I've had, and that I get just about perfect mitres (I may be a novice but I'm fussy).

All in all, I now feel that the Axcaliber (or Lion etc etc) trimmer is my preferred trimmer (because of the ragged outside edge with the Orteguil - which may be caused by dull blades?)

Phew - sorry about the long post, but I just feel there might be useful information here information, and sorry to rabbet on (I thought I should include a pun)

I don't have the space (or cash at the moment) for a Morso, but wonder whether Morso users have similar problems to some degree?

I'd be interested to hear if this has been useful, or a load of codswallop

Thank you
Roy

[johnwphotography]

Hi Roy,
A lengthy ramble, where a picture would have given much more information. Any cutting machine is only as good as its blade and how accurately it is set up. The mitre trimmers are all budget units from the Far East, they do a good job of sorting out a Nobex or other hand mitre saw cut. Just shave off minimal amounts. There are 3 basic models of the hand lever Orteguil from Spain, also available with foot, hydraulic or air operation. They cost much much more than a mitre trimmer, having two blades to cut a V-notch like a Morso. Once correctly set up with good blades and rebate supports (usually missing) they perform well. You get what you pay for, and used machines come with built in misuse, abuse, play and missing bits. It is very unlikely to have blades that are perfect.
The basic trimmer which I infer you have, will probably have had little use and abuse, as they are hobby machines. Not very productive, nor very accurate in terms of measuring, but good to start off with. Good luck

[gordongeikie]

Just read your item about Nobex 202 mitre cutters. Just wondered if you could impart some information. I have one of these which I am reluctant to part with. Problem is securing the mouldings. This mitre cutter has no intergral clamps nor the holes that accomodate them. Like you I have tried the Promax clamps and found them useless. My improvised efforts tend to lift the moulding away from the vertical back shoulder or conversely lift up from the horizontal base. Obviously even half a mm affectcs the quality of the mitre. If you have met similar chanllenges and have any suggestion I would be grateful regards Gordon Geikie