Polecore 2 part glue..

[Mark-ND framing]

Morning all, I have just produced a job using black 38mm Polcore from Wessex. First time I have used synthetic moulding. It cut really well and looked as if the assembly would be easy. I bought the 2 part glue and used it before underpinning. I seems to be a good fix at first but was really brittle when any pressure was applied and easily opened. Anybody have any views/experience in using this glue?

Thanks,
Mark.

[tebbles]

I haven't used that, but mainline have an excellent glue for use with polcore.

http://www.mainlinemouldings.com/index. ... D=I00-0300

[Mark-ND framing]

Thanks for the advice, I will try that.

Mark.

[StevenG]

I don't know what the 2 part glue you're using.

I only use the stuff from mainline, cut the moulding & then use a bit of the glue (too much I've found can be counterproductive), hold the mitred ends firmly until it's solid, I then pin them once the glued joints are good.

Does that make any sense

[Mark-ND framing]

Absolutley, it makes perfect sense thanks. I was using a cyano activator and superglue but it seemd to eat into the moulding and then fall apart....I will try your technique and see how that goes. I did like the finish though..

Thanks again,
Mark.

[John Ranes II, CPF, GCF]

I know that plastic moulding has been around for a long time now....

- It looks fantastic these days with some great finishes!

- From 5 feet or 5 inches away, can you really tell the difference!

But in truth it is still plastic... In 39 years, we have never brought in any outside of customers bringing in frames for repair or reuse... Sorry, but I don't like plastic.

(I'm also a REAL Ale drinker... and don't touch that American C*** Budweiser and Miller!)

Cheers,

John

[Mark-ND framing]

Brilliant, I have to say it's wood for me but you know them there pesky customers!! Enjoy your 'old ferrets tackle"

[technoframer]

With Polcore I have found the best glue is a branded High Viscosity (thick) industrial Superglue.

HV is is much better than lower viscosity because...
It has a longer curing time, typically 30 seconds which gives time for alignment of mitres.
It bridges the 'grain' gaps of polcore perfectly.
It doesn't run off the face of the mitre after application, which keeps tools and fingers glue-free.
Activator not necessary.

Joining plastic mouldings is like any skill, it takes time and practice to get a perfect join. Joints should be stronger than the moulding itself with wedges only needed for a temporary hold. Correctly joined you should not be able seperate a mitre, the moulding should break first.

Not used wood for years now.

[Mark-ND framing]

Thanks for the advice technoframer...(great name btw) I will have a go at this. I agree though I was surprised by the look and feel of the finished frame!! My client always specifies it as it sells well!!