Crackle glaze.

Not your average framer · Tue 04 Mar, 2008 6:33 pm

I'm thinking of getting some crackle glaze, to see if I can do anything interesting with it, probably in combination with other effects. I'm interested in investigating some very different ideas and I'm not totally sure exactly what I'm looking for, but I'll know it when I see it. (If you get my drift).

I'm hoping to try several different types. Probably a good fine crackle, a good coarse crackle and maybe, (if there is such a thing), one which is not only coarse, but can be used as thick coating with deep, wide cracks for very tactile sort of look and feel. Having been told that the results vary a lot between different manufactures and also between different products in manufacturers ranges, I wonder if anyone has any recommendations.

Thanks in anticipation.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 7:09 pm

This is something I've been thinking about too. I was thinking about a project involving the movie Dune, & thought that over a mottled sand colour could give a desert type feel.

I'll probably try out whatever brand Lion sell at first and see how it goes.

Post by **prospero** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 7:22 pm

That's funny.

This very day I noticed an bottle of crackle glaze up on a hign shelf amonst all my potions. I dimmly remember doodling about with it once. I don't think the results were very spectacular, but maybe I didn't quite get the technique right. I seem to remember the effects being rather uneven.

I think there are two sorts: One that you paint on and it dries cracked (or is supposed to) and one that is a two-part process.

I'll have another experiment when I get a mo.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 7:45 pm

Another thing I'm thinking about using is glitter - lay on a neat coat of stain, a coat of varnish with glitter in, a thinned coat of stain (repeat last two steps twice more, may need to apply shellac sealer between varnish & stain) the idea being to give the impression of depth. I have no idea if it will work, but I'll give anything a try.

Not your average framer · Tue 04 Mar, 2008 7:59 pm

prospero wrote:I think there are two sorts:

I think there's a lot more than two sorts.

There's the type which has an oil based base coat and a water based top coat. The base coat has to touch dry when you apply the top coat. The top coat shrinks as it dries and the base coat still not fully dry gives enough to let the ckacks appear.

Then there's the two part water based type.

There are those which produce fine cracks.

Those which produce coarse cracks.

Also another interesting possibility is the nitrated cellulose "dope" sold in model aircraft hobby shops. Nitrated cellulose paint shrinks as it dries, (like a lot)!

The radio controlled aircraft people cover the wings with paper or fabric and paint it with this stuff. It shrinks as it dries and tensions the surface of the wings. During WW2 the Spitfires were built with cellulose doped canvas on the wings.

Well, I reckon if you could paint this onto an oil based base coat, (with a sealer in between to stop the cellulose thinners attacking the base coat), then if when the cellulose was dry you warmed the finish with a hot air gun, the base coat should soften enough to get the crackle effect (I hope)!

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 7:59 pm

Hi Not your Avarage Framer,
I used to use Crackle glaze many years ago ( a two bottle system), I used to dry mount or wet mount or even canvas-bond and heatseal a suitable old looking print like a copy of an old Dutch master, then add the glaze which came in one bottle and then the other bottle a solution which reacted with the glaze to create the cracks.
I will try and find the bottles and let you know were it came from I think originally it may have been a French product some 20 odd years ago when this method was in fashion.

Why not try something differant like dry mounting a print with dry mount film, then heatsealing with a product like specialtex, which you can screw up the release paper after heatsealing into a loose ball, then open it out again lay over the picture, back into the press to emboss a crackle effect.
Then try added a varnish with a pigment.

Have Fun MITREMAN

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 8:04 pm

Mitreman, I think its for use on frames, not canvases!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 8:06 pm

I meant to say NYAF is thinking of using it for frames, not that you shouldn't use it on canvases, which is, on re-reading, what I seem to be implying!

Not your average framer · Tue 04 Mar, 2008 8:18 pm

Spit wrote:Another thing I'm thinking about using is glitter - lay on a neat coat of stain, a coat of varnish with glitter in, a thinned coat of stain (repeat last two steps twice more, may need to apply shellac sealer between varnish & stain) the idea being to give the impression of depth. I have no idea if it will work, but I'll give anything a try.

Hi Steve,

I does work! I've seen it, but I suspect there's a lot of technique too it. In the town I grew up, a friend was into custom cars and used the same technique. It was stunning, but it took a lot of layers and a spray gun to get the glitter to look good. I think it's done on electric guitars too!

Might be some info on sites from custom cars and guitar building.

BTW, there is a technique called bodying-up used by old time french polishers. This is where mineral oil is added to french polish to thick, depth building coats, whithout having to use too many layers to get the result. It's used on those very expensive grand pianos, etc. I've no idea how long it takes or how easy or difficult it may be to do!

Not your average framer · Tue 04 Mar, 2008 8:33 pm

Hi Mitreman,

Thanks for the idea, but as Steve said I'm looking to do some expensive looking designer frame finishes. I've seen some really stunning Italian hand finished frames from the 1930's, which are just amazing.

They are definitely done by hand, because the guy who made them, signed the back of each frame. I had to repair one, when the cord broke and it fell three stories down the inside of a stairwell onto a stone floor.

I didn't do to badly as you could not see it had been repaired, but it would have looked so stunning when new and a repair when new would have been really hard to do, without it showing. I can only imagine what it looked like as new!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 8:44 pm

On a car, such a finish has to be smooth, hence the need for many layers. On a frame though the finish can be textured, so I think by using thinned stain (25% stain, 75% meths) between coats you can give the impression of depth without actually having it!

Anyway, I've ordered some glitter from ebay (£2 inc p+p, cheap as chips) so I'll try it out & let you know how it goes.

Not your average framer · Tue 04 Mar, 2008 9:19 pm

Steve,

I be interested to hear how you get on with the glitter. I'm not sure what to think about it myself as I'm usually into the more traditional finishes.

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 9:21 pm

I like trad, but I'd be quite happy to discover something no-one's thought of before!

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Tue 04 Mar, 2008 11:13 pm

Respect man!

I stopped playing (and I really only ever was) with elaborate hand finishes once I hit the high street.

('Elaborate' - for me is anything above ...... apply stain, let dry, apply wax, buff!)

Got to a point where I'd look at my finished thing - compare it to a supplier's (un-hand) finished thing and realise that for the time I'd spent finishing it that to make the same profit I'd just never sell it.

If it was a speciality though; if I had the time to make batches, that may be different.

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Wed 05 Mar, 2008 8:27 am

HI Spit/NYAF
Get your drift-wood...now I got the wrong end of the hockey...stick. I can see want NAYF is up to sounds like he's having great enjoyment with his restoration. It's so good to finish a job and think "WOW..I have done good".

I like to take photo's before and after for my records and to show other customers which helps sales.
Back to the crackle glaze, my old product could be used on frames as well but allas, I have looked hign and low in my workshop and can't find it

I think it dried up and it hit the bin.

Anyway a couple of companies which may have products you wish to try
are. www.greeandsand.com (crackle varnishes in two parts) and
www.goldenpaints.com (Crackle paste).

Hope these are of some use?

MITREMAN

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Wed 05 Mar, 2008 8:46 am

Hi NYAF,
Missed out the N in greenandsand.com link
sorry

MITREMAN

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Wed 05 Mar, 2008 9:14 am

Hi NAYA,
Sorry but I missed out the www last time, I blame my computor

I know you should never blame your tools.
Just me getting ahead of myself.
Found another supplier for you, they have a product which I think will do the job. you may know them? .www.goldleafsupplies.co.uk/PriceList0905.pdf
Happy hunting
MITREMAN

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Wed 05 Mar, 2008 9:48 am

Hi NYAF,
Spot the deliberate mistake? or was it...umm
MITREMAN

Post by **prospero** » Wed 05 Mar, 2008 11:35 am

Lion Catalogue. Page32: 'Interesting' finishes.

The Framers Forum

Crackle glaze.

Crackle glaze.

Crackle glaze

Crackle glaze

Crackle glaze

Crackle glaze

Spot the deliberate mistake.