Parchment Title Deed

deejay · Post by **deejay** » Wed 30 Apr, 2008 4:40 pm

I have a parchment title deed to an old house that needs fixing to a backing to have a double mount put round it to show all the edges. I cant find anything that will attach it to the board. Japanese hinges just fall off the parchment. Any ideas, it needs to be reversible?

Not your average framer · Wed 30 Apr, 2008 5:24 pm

If it's real parchment, then it will probably be fairly stiff and you could consider attaching it by short pieces of ribbon across each corner at 45 degrees with suitable slots cut into the mountboard behind to pass the ribbon through.

Red, blue or black appear to be the colours I've seen used most often for this technique. If you are not using conservation glass, then the blue or black ribbon is less prone to fading than the red.

Red or blue ribbon looks more classy IMO.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Wed 30 Apr, 2008 8:12 pm

Are the Japanese hinges pre-pasted or do you make your own starch paste?

If you make your own you can make it to any consistency, just find the right consistency - testing is the problem - you can't test on the real thing.

span2iels · Post by **span2iels** » Thu 01 May, 2008 5:47 am

The use of ribbon is a excellent idea but have you thought about using see-thru corners/mounting strips. Lion cat page 73

MITREMAN · Post by **MITREMAN** » Thu 01 May, 2008 7:25 am

Hi Deejay,
I agree with Roboframer, except I use Torn Mulberry Paper to make my hinges which I find stronger, then I make my own pure rice starch paste to the right consistency, you may need three t-shape supports hinges at the top as parchment is quite heavy and not usually flat.

I used this method when framing the University of East Anglia's parchment. I had to make the frame and mount to museum standards and then take it to the UEA laboratory to fit the parchment on site as the value was priceless and was not allowed of the premises.

Hope this helps

MITREMAN

www.framersequipment.co.uk

markw · Post by **markw** » Thu 01 May, 2008 8:38 am

parchment can be very difficult to keep flat and ribbon corners are sometimes just not able to contain the urge for the parchment to roll up.

One technique that I have used in the past is to use linen covered mountboard. Cut into thin strips with reverse bevel edges. The strips of board can be threaded through suitably positioned slits in the board - as with ribbon. The result is very similar to ribbon but has a more determined hold on the parchment.

deejay · Post by **deejay** » Thu 01 May, 2008 3:14 pm

Not your average framer wrote:If it's real parchment, then it will probably be fairly stiff and you could consider attaching it by short pieces of ribbon across each corner at 45 degrees with suitable slots cut into the mountboard behind to pass the ribbon through.

Red, blue or black appear to be the colours I've seen used most often for this technique. If you are not using conservation glass, then the blue or black ribbon is less prone to fading than the red.

Red or blue ribbon looks more classy IMO.

It's real parchment alright, but the top is cut very irregularly and I dont think the ribbon idea will work very well. The hinges I tried were Haiku and I have no other parchment to experiment with my own paste. (Answer to Robo with thanks for the input) The parchment has a slightly greasy feel to it so I dont think any thing other than superglue would stick to it. Any other ideas?

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Thu 01 May, 2008 5:17 pm

This is a quote from The Grumble.

"You must learn how long to wait from the time you paste a hinge until you actually apply the hinge to the art.

If you apply the hinge too soon, the art will probably pucker. If you wait too long you won't get a strong bond.

Once you have learned this skill you will understand why wheat starch paste is universally accepted as the best adhseive for hinging"

It's what I'd use - pass through hinges. I don't like the idea of corner supports, at least not on their own - the artwork is 'standing up'; not hanging, but they could be used as an addition to help keep the thing as flat as poss - I'd use melinex straps.

The only other method I can think of is a total melinex overlay but it's probably a bit large for that. How big is it anyway?

Oh - and did you know ......... the reason for the irregularly cut top is that there is, or was, another half in a records office somewhere - the bottom of which will match up with the top of yours.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Thu 01 May, 2008 5:27 pm

MITREMAN wrote:I use Torn Mulberry Paper to make my hinges

I always thought that the stuff Lion sold was the bees knees - but now I'm not so sure.

Check out this link from PEL

It states 30% Kozo and 70% sulphite pulp - that's wood content. It's pure Kozo you need - and PEL sell it - in varying weights; they also sell the one Lion do - it's even the same photo - described as 'Mulberry' paper but all references I can find in their catalogue to Mulberry paper state a high sulphite pulp content.

Check out the 'Kaji natural' in the above link - and there is plenty more like that - not cheap but it goes a very long way.

You'll find the powdered wheat starch paste there too.

I know Lion do the Zen stuff that's like a block that you dampen and apply with a brush - not sure about that either. What's been added?

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Thu 01 May, 2008 8:08 pm

deejay wrote:The hinges I tried were Haiku and I have no other parchment to experiment with my own paste.

Do you mean 'Hayaku'?

If so, that is a gummed paper and would not be suitable. Gummed hinges are not as good as starch pasted hinges. The gum can release, even from paper over time. It is not recommended for preservation framing.

deejay · Post by **deejay** » Fri 02 May, 2008 3:11 pm

Roboframer wrote:This is a quote from The Grumble.

"You must learn how long to wait from the time you paste a hinge until you actually apply the hinge to the art.

If you apply the hinge too soon, the art will probably pucker. If you wait too long you won't get a strong bond.

Once you have learned this skill you will understand why wheat starch paste is universally accepted as the best adhseive for hinging"

It's what I'd use - pass through hinges. I don't like the idea of corner supports, at least not on their own - the artwork is 'standing up'; not hanging, but they could be used as an addition to help keep the thing as flat as poss - I'd use melinex straps.

The only other method I can think of is a total melinex overlay but it's probably a bit large for that. How big is it anyway?

Oh - and did you know ......... the reason for the irregularly cut top is that there is, or was, another half in a records office somewhere - the bottom of which will match up with the top of yours.

Yes, I did know that about the copy. It is about 3 ft by 2 ft. and even after a week under weights after gently back-folding the creases it is still a bit kinky, although it should still clear the Tru Vu UV glass with the double mounting. I wondered about two tiny stitches hidden in the bold black titling work at the top if the client agrees. I know this could be classed as damage, but it would be minimal and practically invisible and fairly secure.

deejay · Post by **deejay** » Fri 02 May, 2008 3:19 pm

Roboframer wrote: I always thought that the stuff Lion sold was the bees knees - but now I'm not so sure.

Check out this link from PEL

It states 30% Kozo and 70% sulphite pulp - that's wood content. It's pure Kozo you need - and PEL sell it - in varying weights; they also sell the one Lion do - it's even the same photo - described as 'Mulberry' paper but all references I can find in their catalogue to Mulberry paper state a high sulphite pulp content.

Check out the 'Kaji natural' in the above link - and there is plenty more like that - not cheap but it goes a very long way.

You'll find the powdered wheat starch paste there too.

I know Lion do the Zen stuff that's like a block that you dampen and apply with a brush - not sure about that either. What's been added?

I checked out your link. Trouble is nowhere does it say any of them will adhere to parchment whis is slightly greasy to the touch. I'm not sure anything will stick to it. After all they used to stitch the damned things, which probably tells us something. Mind you the sealing wax seems to stick quite well.

Post by **prospero** » Fri 02 May, 2008 3:46 pm

This is going sound like total sacriledge, but what about superglue? I minute amount should hold.

I say this only because superglue was originally made for the military for closing wounds in the field. (albeit temporarily). Parchment is skin afterall.

Just a thought....

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Fri 02 May, 2008 5:32 pm

Here is a search for the word 'Vellum' in topic headings on The Grumble - maybe there'll be some inspiration there.

http://www.thegrumble.com/search.php?searchid=301141

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 03 May, 2008 9:38 pm

deejay wrote:
I checked out your link. Trouble is nowhere does it say any of them will adhere to parchment whis is slightly greasy to the touch. I'm not sure anything will stick to it.

It does not say any of them will stick to anything because they won't - not until you add some paste.

Here is a piece of vellum - a full skin, trimmed square. It'll be heavier than your piece; it's quite stiff - and 'waxy'.

It had been hanging by this .....

....... for an hour before I took the shot.

Here is the consistency of the starch paste I used

I didn't bother with the usual weighting and did not even leave it to dry as long as I would have 'for real'.

Moglet · Post by **Moglet** » Sat 03 May, 2008 10:47 pm

Great idea to post the pic of the paste, John. I found that extremely helpful!

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 03 May, 2008 11:11 pm

This is what I used

Ikg of that stuff goes a long long way - the kozo paper is expensive - or is it?

Sekishi Kozogami Tsuru - 100% Kozo 720 x 520mm £26.40 pack 5.

If anyone fancies doing the maths I wonder how that would compare in price - for, say the amount of 3/4" strips you could make - to Filmoplast P90.

Also, if it were more than whatever you may use for your highest level of conservation - and if that's something already gummed you need to look at conservation framing a bit harder - how much more would you charge?

You should charge more anyway as there are preparation and drying times to consider.

The price for those 5 sheets is also very slightly less than just one sheet of Mulberrry paper - which I think is NOT pure Kozo - from a well known framing supplier.

I'd be very interested to know who makes their own hinges and paste here and what paper/paste they use.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sat 03 May, 2008 11:29 pm

Just spotted in my first photo there - I've got a flourescent tube out - or a starter - why didn't I notice that!

osgood · Post by **osgood** » Sat 03 May, 2008 11:36 pm

John,

I make my own hinges from Japanese paper in two different weights, but I can't remember their proper Japanese names. It is as cheap as dirt when you work out the cost per pair of hinges. Probably cheaper than P90.

I still have a few packs of Nori paste left and will use them up and I have some 'Stadex' powder which is pre cooked starch paste. It maybe wheat or rice starch, but I bought it about 16 years ago or more and don't remember back that far! It just needs mixing with a little cold water and let stand for a few minutes and it's ready to go. I usually only mix enough for the current hinging jobs.

I tend to make it quite a bit drier than yours in your photo, so it doesn't have to sit on the hinge for very long before it's ready to apply.

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sun 04 May, 2008 12:04 am

I've got the Sekishi ......... one and a lighter one that cost almost twice as much - larger sheets mind - but not twice the size. It's so nice it seems a shame to tear it in to strips!

The consistency of that blob is about 4 times heavier than that of nori paste, which is quite runny. A sort of semolina consistency - no - better - sterilised cream consistency.

I nuke it in the microwave - one part powder to (up to) 5 parts spring water - not distilled - in 5 second intervals (between stirring) - you can't see in the photo but the plastic screw top container has buckled from microwave abuse - but the lid still screws on tight so that's OK.

It's one of the plastic tubs that some screws/D rings etc come in from Lion.

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