Oriental carpet / tapestry
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Oriental carpet / tapestry
I've been asked to frame a carpet / tapestry which is about 4 ft by 5 ft in size and it's quite heavy, it's also lined at the back and fringed with swivelled metalised thread tassels.
The only sensible place to attach it from is the edge where the tassels are attached. Any attachment needs to be very secure, it's heavy so I need avoid the backing board bowing with the weight and hide the attachments too!
I intend to place an internal sheet of glass in front of, but not touching the carpet / tapestry to stop the swivelled tassels from flopping down forwards and would be grateful for any of those pearls of wisdom from those who've any to offer.
Thanks,
Mark
The only sensible place to attach it from is the edge where the tassels are attached. Any attachment needs to be very secure, it's heavy so I need avoid the backing board bowing with the weight and hide the attachments too!
I intend to place an internal sheet of glass in front of, but not touching the carpet / tapestry to stop the swivelled tassels from flopping down forwards and would be grateful for any of those pearls of wisdom from those who've any to offer.
Thanks,
Mark
Full support sewing is what I'd do, using button thread - colours to match - or even, especially as it sounds quite a thick thing, using invisible stitches, maybe with a curved needle - through foamboard, either covered in mountboard of whatever colour - or fabric, but I think this is one of those jobs where the attach-eze type gun may come into its own.
I'd then stick this support onto something stronger.
Here is one I did earlier, not as big as yours, a ceremonial prayer mat. Customer wanted the tassles to look as natural as possible - which was good as it meant not having to stitch each one!

I'd then stick this support onto something stronger.
Here is one I did earlier, not as big as yours, a ceremonial prayer mat. Customer wanted the tassles to look as natural as possible - which was good as it meant not having to stitch each one!

Roboframer
I have done a few of these over the years - used to stitch them in place but now use the micro tag gun. - you can hide the tags in the decoration - I also paint the tops to make sure they cant be seen. I tag every single tassle at the knot to make sure they stay in place - tage textile sides and points throughout the decoration - wherever I can hide a tag - would use a lot of tags.
The tassles tend to shed bits of material and can be awkward to get into the frame clean.
I have done a few of these over the years - used to stitch them in place but now use the micro tag gun. - you can hide the tags in the decoration - I also paint the tops to make sure they cant be seen. I tag every single tassle at the knot to make sure they stay in place - tage textile sides and points throughout the decoration - wherever I can hide a tag - would use a lot of tags.
The tassles tend to shed bits of material and can be awkward to get into the frame clean.
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In my experience the tags can be lost in the thread work - always fire them in so that they run parrallel with the threads.
Some time ago we had a discussion about the weight of threads to use - I advocated using a very strong product made by Barbour - I got some very good advice about the need to use materials that would break before the textile being stitched ripped. Tags break off fairly easily and I use them in large numbers to achieve a good hold - you have to watch the material being tagged as the needle can cause damage.
If you are using fishing line I would suggest that you keep the breaking strain down to a very light weight and just attach at more points to achieve a good hold.
Sounds like you have a few hours stitching in front of you.
Some time ago we had a discussion about the weight of threads to use - I advocated using a very strong product made by Barbour - I got some very good advice about the need to use materials that would break before the textile being stitched ripped. Tags break off fairly easily and I use them in large numbers to achieve a good hold - you have to watch the material being tagged as the needle can cause damage.
If you are using fishing line I would suggest that you keep the breaking strain down to a very light weight and just attach at more points to achieve a good hold.
Sounds like you have a few hours stitching in front of you.
Most foamboard companies have 8ft by 4ft sheets. I buy them by the box all the time as they are much more economical that way. Surely a supplier in your country would have them!Not your average framer wrote: It's also too big for either jumbo sized mountboard or foam core board. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Mark
You could then laminate both sides of it with sheets of cons quality matboard, which will make it extremely rigid and strong.
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The extra large foam core problem has been solved, Wessex pictures can supply 10mm thick foam core in a 4 ft x 8 ft sheet, at £18 per sheet. Unfortunately 10mm is the only thickness they do in that size.
I am thinking about covering the foam core with black brushed nylon display fabric, it comes 52 inches wide on a roll which they sell by the metre. The Lion minimum order for this is 5 metres, which adds up to about £30.
This leaves the frame and slip. It needs a large solid gold frame moulding and since I have some in stock, I suggested Euro-mouldings 58-011, the list price for this is £9.22 per metre. I didn't pay anything like that for it, but I'll be glad of the chance to do something with it and turn dead stock into cash.
I've given up on the idea of two sheets of glass and instead I'm bribing the wife to sew all those tassels to the foam core. As a slip moulding, I've chosen the Simons Pisces range 000K/0326 black sloping slip.
The customer has been quoted a suitable price and he's currently chewing it over, (or perhaps choking on it), as he was expecting much less!
I'll probably join the frame over at a friends workshop where there's more space as unless I completely re-arrange my workshop, the only other option is knocking a hole in the wall into the pub next door, as I have very small premises. I'll await the comments about the hole in the wall!
Cheers,
Mark
I am thinking about covering the foam core with black brushed nylon display fabric, it comes 52 inches wide on a roll which they sell by the metre. The Lion minimum order for this is 5 metres, which adds up to about £30.
This leaves the frame and slip. It needs a large solid gold frame moulding and since I have some in stock, I suggested Euro-mouldings 58-011, the list price for this is £9.22 per metre. I didn't pay anything like that for it, but I'll be glad of the chance to do something with it and turn dead stock into cash.
I've given up on the idea of two sheets of glass and instead I'm bribing the wife to sew all those tassels to the foam core. As a slip moulding, I've chosen the Simons Pisces range 000K/0326 black sloping slip.
The customer has been quoted a suitable price and he's currently chewing it over, (or perhaps choking on it), as he was expecting much less!
I'll probably join the frame over at a friends workshop where there's more space as unless I completely re-arrange my workshop, the only other option is knocking a hole in the wall into the pub next door, as I have very small premises. I'll await the comments about the hole in the wall!
Cheers,
Mark
I don't know why you are looking for fabric from a non fabric specialist. Lion are superb for framing accessories, but if it is fabric you are after, why not look at a good fabric SHOP? Choose from a bewlidering range and buy no more than you need, at a far, far lower price per running metre.Not your average framer wrote:
I am thinking about covering the foam core with black brushed nylon display fabric, it comes 52 inches wide on a roll which they sell by the metre. The Lion minimum order for this is 5 metres, which adds up to about £30.
Crushed velvet, linen, jacquard, cotton drill, organza, silk - whatever!
Many framers look no further than their framing suppliers' catalogues when it comes to framing 'fabric art' - the solution may be just down the road. Framing suppliers don't even sell the basics, which are NEEDLE AND THREAD, what they DO sell are simply quick-fix Heath-Robinson devices and substitutes. Why on earth would I want to PAINT the exposed tags from a micro tag gun when I can find a perfect match from threads that have a massive range of colour options, can be done invisbly anyway and, if you know what you are doing, are no slower.
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