What type of router?

[sim.on]

Never having used one I would like to know please what sort of router I should buy for getting the lip on the front edge of the box on deep box frames (which sits inside the rebate of the top frame). I assume it's done first on the length of wood before cutting it rather than after the box is made up. Thanks.

[prospero]

To do this properly (And Safely), you need the router mounted in a table. They aren't enormously expensive. 99% of routing is holding the work still. You can knock up jigs if you are doing the same operation on one moulding a lot of the time.

There are many makes of router. The more expensive ones are tougher and engineered for heavy usage. If you aren't running the thing all day, try a cheaper one first. A good hefty one with a 1/2" shank is advisable if you are milling oak or ash.

[Framie]

My 1/2" Hitachi router has done me well for the past 8 years, I don't use a table as I don't have space but if you do have space a table would be better.

I had a few cheap ones before and there no good at all including black and decker.

The 1/4" shanks have to much movement when cut hardwood so best to get 1/2" shank router.

Framie

[Abacus]

I use a half inch triton in a dakota router table, it is excellent and has the advantage of being able to change bits while the router stays in the table. The new model also allows height adjustment from above the table. The dust extraction is also very clever.

[prospero]

A handy tip from Norm "I've got twelve routers" Abrams......

If you are routing freehand - say rounding an edge on a board in front of you - move left-to-right. It will cut more smoothly.

[sim.on]

That's great thanks all.

[Steve Goodall]

A pillar drill (£60 from B&Q) with a router bit (around £30 depending on your needs) & a good bench with some jigs recently earned a customer of mine £5k for some pretty simple "fettling" - one note - if buying a B&Q pillar dill - check the safety catch on the top panel - he had 2 exchanged before we found it was a "wonky trip switch" - once sorted the moey rolled in

[Roboframer]

Now you're sorted can someone explain the initial problem that I don't seem to have with box frames

[sim.on]

Good idea with the pillar drill thanks will certainly look into it. The box frames may become a regular thing at ten plus a time. They are four inches deep with the backs glued & pinned on. Access is from the front by removing the top frame and the customer wants to line the inside and wrap it over the ridge on the front face of the box section.

[framemaker]

I must admit, I still can't work out what the finished frame design looks like, or what part you are routing

[Roboframer]

Thought it was just me - how's about a photo/diagram?

[sim.on]

This is how I've been doing them by slapping some MDF (I know) on the inside to get the raised bit which holds the glass in. Access has to be from the front which is a little bit of a pain (well to me anyway). I'm not doing the actual framing. The customer wants to line the sides right up to the glass. attachment=0]Picture 377.jpg[/attachment]