Hard wood frames

[rhiannon framing]

I have problems joining deep hardwood frames. Has anyone any experience using a nailer/nail gun and can advise.

thanks

Sharon

[Graysalchemy]

How are you jointing your frames? If you are using an underpinner then you need to use hardwood wedges and make sure your under pinner is well adjusted to clamp the frame together.

[prospero]

If you are trying to stack wedges into a deep, narrow-faced moulding, you need to take a slightly different approach. Stack two wedges (Three is pushing your luck) near to the inside of the join and then one nearer (not too near - not as near as you would a softer wood) the outside. This will help prevent 'burst-out' on the back edge. On really deep sections, say with a rebate deeper than about 30mm, I would put one shallow wedge in just to hold the moulding in position and then put a strap clamp around. With the clamp on, cross nail it near the top. Leave the clamp on until the glue has set. Preferably overnight.

[rhiannon framing]

Thanks for that. I am using a cassese CS88. I was considering the best way of cross pinning which is why I was asking about a nail gun.

[framemaker]

I rarely stack wedges in oak or ash, if the moulding is very thin and won't take a Hoffmann key, I use a dremel to make a pilot hole and then cross pin. After the frame is joined on the underpinner, I use some masking tape to pull the corners together at the top, then drill and pin, then use a strap clamp while the glue sets over night.

[prospero]

Never used a nail gun. The only thing that puts me off is, that in this situation I don't know how well they would go into hard wood. And on a narrow piece there is always the danger that the nail will hit a hard(er) bit and emerge from the back. I would always drill a small pilot hole first and hand nail and use a punch to sink the nail in in a bit.
There is the matter of having to fill the nail holes. Not a great problem with oak/ash.

[Framerpicture]

5 minute PU glue and strap clamp (ones you tighten by turning handle) works very well- Handy tip with PU glue is to slightly moisten mitre with water.

You can underpin afterwards if you feel the need

[tasadam]

I use a strap clamp, but I do my timber frames a bit different.
Rather than make the frames from mouldings, I make the mouldings from hardwood using timber - measure, rip, plane, thru the thicknesser, over the saw to rip out the rebate, router to put a nice inner lip, then cut 45's on a really good drop saw.
Then I glue together and clamp using steel strap clamps. While they're tight I nail in a couple of V nails on each joint.
Once that dries, I sand back, bit by bit, then stain using a water based polyurethane floor coating, spraying minimum 3 coats.
A closer look at a finished product (as seen in my avatar) -

Actual size approx 650mm x 520mm

Yes. Too much work. Makes for a very high quality finish, but also makes for an expensive product.
So now I've bought a guillotine and will be using commercial mouldings as well.

[JohnMcafee]

Very impressive tasadam, your joining method shows good results.

Is that also your photograph?

[Graysalchemy]

You say you are using a CS88 but are you using hardwood wedges?. HArdwood wedges are sharpened on both sides. Never stack hardwood wedges as they will usuall split and peel like a banana in the wood. If you are only doing small volumes I would consider glueing and clamping leaving it to dry and then pin it the following day, this way you will have a good closed joint, which hopefully will stay closed when you underpin.

As Prospero says nail guns are fine until you hit a hard area of wood and the nail will end up coming out in all directions.

Hardwood's are a problem and even with a pneumatic pinner still cause problems. I avoid using them for volume jobs because they can be so problematic. I know use Lions Oak veneers as they are a lot less hassle but unfortunately they don't allow for you own finishing.

[tasadam]

Is that also your photograph?

Yes. Check the gallery on my website (link in Sig) if you want more. I do my own framing, that's what brought me to this forum.

[Abacus]

Frintons do a full range of hardwood veneers which are raw, so can be finished as required.