Hanging pictures flush with one another

[CalicoFraming]

Hi all,

I have three framed paintings exactly the same size, each with a hollow back (to a depth of around 15mm). I want to be able to hang them with a small gap between each picture and so that the tops are flush with each other. I also wan them to hang flush against the wall.

So far I worked out I can use D rings and cord set inside the hollow back to achieve this nicely with just one picture, but it seems to me that it's going to be difficult to get several hanging at exactly the same height using this method.

I've also tried the CWH hangers that Lion do but the screw head makes the picture stand away from the wall by several mm.

My final thought, untest as yet, is to glue a small batten onto the back of the painting itself (it's on MDF board) in the hollow back and use a CWH hanger on that so that the whole package sits within the depth of the hollow. I wouldn't suggest this to a customer but the paintings are my own.

Any ideas on how I can have my cake and eat it?

Thanks
Calico

[CalicoFraming]

Oh, forgot to mention, it has occurred to me to chase out the rear of the moulding to accommodate the CWH hangers so the screws don't get in the way, but I'm hoping there's a less aggravating solution

[David McCormack]

Maybe an adjustable hanging system like this:

http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Odems- ... ,2206.aspx

I would think you could put up your three picture hooks all perfectly level on the wall and then make small adjustments to the Odems Clamp to get the top of the frames level. I've not used them myself but they look perfect for a job like this?

[strokebloke]

You might want to consider the sketch "French Cleat. doc" attached.
2 pieces of wood, in your case 15mm thick, each with one tapered edge: the lower one attaches to the wall and the upper one to the recess in the back of your frame. If you're going to use corner buffers the material can be slightly larger than 15mm thick.

I hope your able to open the attached doc: it's the first time I've tried to attach anything on the FF site.

Jack

[CalicoFraming]

Thx guys. I was thinking about the French cleat as an option (although I had no idea this is what it was called!) only prob is getting wood exactly the right size.
The lion thing looks interesting too, will.check it out.

Thanks again
Calico

[simoonez]

What immediately came to mind was a bezel system, I think they're called keyhole something ...I'll find a link...

here http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/Keyhol ... 863,0.aspx

But I'm thinking you want them absolutely flush with the wall, no gap at all. These are good, but there is a gap of a couple of mm.

I think Jack's suggestion there might be the way forwards.

[stcstc]

cut a pice of 18mm mdf the just smaller that the size of the opening

cut 2 slot holes, maybe a few mm in size

the do 2 more

hang on the wall the slots will allow you to adjust the level etc of the mdf, then just sit the pictures over it, if its a snug ish fit no need for fixings

[Roboframer]

Hows about making frames from battens that fit snugly inside your frame recess, make them from battens ever so slightly less deep than the recess. Screw these to the wall, perfectly aligned and then slide your frames over them. Countersink screws through the top and bottom of your frames in to these batten frames and fill over if necessary.

[Steve N]

I use these
http://www.lionpic.co.uk/product/PICTUR ... 799,0.aspx

I do a lot of work for my local Cricket club (just done one from 1863 showing WG Grace without a beard! he was only 14) and use these on most of their pictures

[CalicoFraming]

thanks for all the suggestions

The problem with a lot of the hardware options is that it does leave a mm or so gap between the frame and wall, unless I chisel out a mortise for them in the frame. Robo's idea is good, i think, but at this stage I'm trying to minimize time on this project which I'm now pursuing solely out of idle interest since it became unprofitable some way back

So, French cleats it is. Quick, cheap, easy and I figured that if the cleats are slightly narrower than the depth of the hollow in the frame it won't matter, they'll work anyway

Just one thing, I'm planning on using the Morso and some pine batten to produce small cleats, but wondered if can anyone suggest how I might cut a 45% chamfer along the length of a baton?

Thanks as always,
Calico

[Steve N]

A table saw,with the blade set at 45% , if you have a wide batten, cut down the length, you'll end up with two cleats

[strokebloke]

The angle on the cleat doesn't have to be 45 degrees.
Anything incl, or over, 30 degrees works just as well
Anything less than 30 degrees isn't advisable, as they can be dislodged