Problem with an acylic painting on canvas - HELP..!!

Bagel Framer · Post by **Bagel Framer** » Sun 24 Jun, 2007 6:32 pm

Hi,

We're after a "bail out" please with an acrylic painting that we've stuck to a 100% Cotton Rag Foamboard, using PVA. The painting is on canvas and we used a "criss cross" method of applying the glue from approx 6" above, then laying it on the board and aplying pressure so it would stick.

Unfortunately, we had risen areas where the glue was, so elected to lift it off and carefully scrape the glue off with a stanley blade. These ridges still remain.

Is it the case that the canvas is wet (even though it feels dry) and they will dry out overtime, thus making the ridges disappear?

Is there anything to be gained by ironing it?

We did another four paintings with the same method, but brushed the glue out instead and they're fine.

We also tried diluting the glue with water but it wouldn't stick.

Thanks for your helps guys - hopefully it's rectifiable otherwise we're in strife....!

Merlin · Post by **Merlin** » Sun 24 Jun, 2007 6:42 pm

Sorry cant help you on your 'bail out' cry for help.

We always apply diluted PVA (50/50) with a 4" sponge paint roller, this ensures an even layer of glue and from using this way on anything from photogrpahs to canvas, have never had a problem with ridges as you have described.
Maybe the canvas has reacted in someway to this criss-cross pattern, probably it has expanded then the glue has dried, whereas the areas inside the criss-cross remain untouched..

Just thoughts..

Roboframer · Post by **Roboframer** » Sun 24 Jun, 2007 8:28 pm

What is 100% cotton rag foamboard?

100% cotton means just that and foam is not made from it?

If you are going to wet mount something the whole surface of the mount needs to be evenly coated and you may have to let it go off a bit before sticking the artwork down.

Your canvas has only stuck - and could only, where there was glue and the lines of glue were not flat.

I have no solution for getting rid of these ridges but ..... Don't iron it!

Spit · Post by **Spit** » Sun 24 Jun, 2007 8:50 pm

What I do with my own works when there are dents (usually caused by fingers pressing the canvas too hard) is dampen (not soak!) the back and gently dry with a hairdryer. It may need a few goes, and you will need to make sure all the pva is off - the hairdryer will soften any residue.

Bagel Framer · Post by **Bagel Framer** » Sun 24 Jun, 2007 8:56 pm

Thanks for the replies.

Roboframer/John - the foamboard we've used is by Beinfang and 100% Cotton Rag refers to the facing papers rather than the whole board.

Spit/Steve - thanks for the tips, we'll have a try tomorrow on our second wedding anniversary..!

Not your average framer · Sun 24 Jun, 2007 9:53 pm

I wouldn't try anything untill you've checked out that it works on something else. By it's nature the PVA will be responsive to some kind of solvent which will soften it enough to enable you to scrap it off, hopefully with something nice and safe like your thumbnail. After this you can thick about re-sticking it using the method you have proven on the others.

Do you have any suitable solvent in stock to try, but not on the painting until you have tried it on some dried PVA on a bit of scrap canvas. Until you try it, you won't know, but here are a few possibles, if you have them:

Methylated Spirit, Iso-Propyl Alcohol (Iso-Propanol), Ethyl Alcohol (Ethanol), or something similar.

Apply with a cotton bud to avoid contact with the acrylic paintwork as much as possible. Any of these will take time to work, so your gonna be keeping busy with the cotton bud a while. I think I would avoid White spirit or Acetone at this stage.

White spirit leaves an oily residue which may interfere with a later application of PVA, while Acetone is a more aggressive solvent which may be best avoided if something less aggressive works. Hopefully before you get around to doing this someone with a little more knowledge will know the best solvent without guessing as I am.
Good luck